WX Aux Power

Hey Everyone,

I’ve attached a few photos. Need help identifying/finding aux power in my 2016 WX1910. I’m powering the following:

1) Console/Helm Humminbird Solix 12 SI (5A fuse)
2) Console/Helm Humminbird 798 CI HD SI (3A fuse I think)
3) Console/Helm Humminbird Ethernet Hub (3A fuse)

4) Bow Humminbird Solix 12 OR Helix 12 (5A fuse but need to decide which one to buy)
5) Bow MK Heading GPS Sensor (require power?)

6) Stern Humminbird Heading GPS Sensor (require power?)

NOW to my questions:
Q1) My circuit breaker lists BOW-ACC, ACC-1, ACC-2, ACC-3, ACC-6, ACC-7, of which I assume are not in use and free to connect with no other loads on them. Is this correct?

Q2) I have found the following under the console/helm – 3 spare red wires, 1 black wire. I only can assume that is ACC-1, ACC-2 and ACC-3, with a shared negative. Is this correct?

Q3) I have found 1 spare red wire and 1 black wire behind the bow panel. Not labelled. Anyone know if that is BOW ACC, ACC-6 or ACC-7?

Q4) Rogue ACC-6 and ACC-7 are where?

Q5) Is there stern ACC power available other than running new wires to the cranking battery? I need power for the stern GPS puck.

Q6) Anyone know what’s going on with the red and black cut wires off of the connector labelled ‘R’ in the photo under the helm?

Q7) All of the spare ACC are 3A fuses which work ok for the 798, ethernet hub, and GPS heading sensors, but the HELX 12 and SOLIX 12 require 5A fuses. Is my only option to run wires direct to the cranking battery with a 5A inline fuse for each sonar or does anyone else have a better idea?

Q8) If I run direct power for the sonars is it a good idea to have a switch to disconnect power? When the graph is off I can only assume it’s not using power. The nice option running through the circuit panel is I can cut all power to the battery to avoid draining the battery.

Q9) Boat came with a Interstate 24XHD cranking battery. I’m was thinking of upgrading to the 31M-AGM for added capacity, but it is PRICEY. Now I’m considering the 27XHD as the specs are similar. Your experiences?

Thanks for your time,
Josh

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Q2) I have found the following under the console/helm – 3 spare red wires, 1 black wire. I only can assume that is ACC-1, ACC-2 and ACC-3, with a shared negative. Is this correct?

I checked under my console, and there are three red wires labelled ACC 1-2-3 the same as yours as well as three separate black wires. I’m sure these negatives probably go to a shared ground, but they are there which makes it a lot easier to rig your electronics than just a single wire. Maybe check the wire nest a little more closely as I bet you might find two more?
Mine are powering a Helix 12, Helix 5, and the Ethernet Hub. Works great running them through the fuse block.

Q3) I have found 1 spare red wire and 1 black wire behind the bow panel. Not labelled. Anyone know if that is BOW ACC, ACC-6 or ACC-7?
Q4) Rogue ACC-6 and ACC-7 are where?

I don’t think they’re trying to fool anyone! I haven’t tested the fuse to find out, but I’m pretty sure BOW is for the…bow.
And I haven’t tried to track them down, but I’m betting ACC 6 and 7 are unassigned and not pre-wired?

Q5) Is there stern ACC power available other than running new wires to the cranking battery? I need power for the stern GPS puck.

When I installed an additional sonar/gps unit in the stern I looked pretty thoroughly and didn’t find any. I ended up powering that unit directly to the cranking battery because it was closer/easier than running it all the way back up to the fuse block.

Q6) Anyone know what’s going on with the red and black cut wires off of the connector labelled ‘R’ in the photo under the helm?

I think the “R” stands for “Radio.”
I have the same connector, and the yellow wire goes into my Jensen bluetooth radio. I assume the red and black wire ends are there to indicate which plug is which on that connector…maybe for adding some kind of accessory or amp?

Q7) All of the spare ACC are 3A fuses which work ok for the 798, ethernet hub, and GPS heading sensors, but the HELX 12 and SOLIX 12 require 5A fuses. Is my only option to run wires direct to the cranking battery with a 5A inline fuse for each sonar or does anyone else have a better idea?

I might be running my Helix 12 on a 3A fuse. Live on the edge.

Q8) If I run direct power for the sonars is it a good idea to have a switch to disconnect power? When the graph is off I can only assume it’s not using power. The nice option running through the circuit panel is I can cut all power to the battery to avoid draining the battery.

Seems to me that you answered your own question. Some people will insist that you must power directly to the battery in order to avoid interference. That’s not been my experience: no issues whatsoever across multiple boats with multiple units on each boat and all power run through a single fuse panel. If you had a bug you couldn’t solve, that might be a step to take, but with the pre-rigged panel making it easy for you I’d start with that.

Q9) Boat came with a Interstate 24XHD cranking battery. I’m was thinking of upgrading to the 31M-AGM for added capacity, but it is PRICEY. Now I’m considering the 27XHD as the specs are similar. Your experiences?

Did you get an MK Precision charger that can be set to handle both lead-acid and AGM batteries at the same time? What is the price difference between the 27-series lead-acid and the 31-series AGM?
As I’ve added more and more electronic items, I had some brown-out problems affecting my bow unit when powering up the main motor; I upgraded from the 24-series stock cranking battery to a 31-series AGM and it’s been smooth sailing ever since.

After further inspection I found all 6 wires under the console dash (3 red / 3 black). Therefore it is clear those are ACC-1, ACC-2, and ACC-3.

Agree that the 2 wires at the bow (red / black) are ACC-BOW.

I removed the fuse panel and there are red wires connected to ACC-6 and ACC-7. I cannot for the life of me find them in the boat. Maybe I’ll try calling the Skeeter Boat Center tomorrow to see if somebody there can help me find them.

I still don’t understand the two wires in the radio plug, however if it works no point in monkeying with it. I wouldn’t mind adding something with a bit more bass to the stereo in the future though.

My only option for the SOLIX 12 is to change the fuse to a 5A or run direct to the battery with an in-line fuse holder. The SOLIX 12 has a power draw of 2.88 amps, whereas the HELIX 12 has a power draw of only 1.75 amps. The 3A would work the HELIX but may nuisance trip the SOLIX. To save myself the headache I’ll change it.

The 31 series AGM dual purpose is in the range of $400-$425 CAD vs. the 27 series flooded cranking at about $155-$170. I believe for $300 CAD total I can upgrade to a new 31 series AGM from my 24XHD on trade. I’m gonna go that route since I will be running a bunch of electronics off of it. Also, I bought the MK460PC and will be plugging it in every outing or two to recharge. For my trolling motor batteries I have three 29 series flooded deep cycle. Should work for me.

I removed the fuse panel and there are red wires connected to ACC-6 and ACC-7. I cannot for the life of me find them in the boat. Maybe I’ll try calling the Skeeter Boat Center tomorrow to see if somebody there can help me find them.

let us know what you find out…i’d be inclined to use them if they’re free since i’m about to install some more stuff.

I still don’t understand the two wires in the radio plug, however if it works no point in monkeying with it.

i think they’re just there as indicators. ie., you’d remove them before connecting the plug to your amp or whatever and they just let you know which one for the power and which one is for the ground in the plug itself.

Also, I bought the MK460PC and will be plugging it in every outing or two to recharge.

It’s a very easy process to set each bank for different kinds of batteries (AGM vs lead-acid). Just take the time to read the manual.