Picked up mine today, leaving Friday for NW Ontario so I don’t know if I’ll get any run time in before I go. I asked Jim at SBC to put on a 21 pro series before I got there and they took it out for a test run… Full fuel and 1 guy it was 58-60mph! I still need to throw in tackle and rods but that’s not going to add much weight but I’m impressed so far. I’ll get alot of run time on it next week and report back.
Phil –
I moved my engine up one hole. It is now in the third hole from the top. I can’t say that I noticed much difference other than it blows out in the turns easier with the stock Salt Water II 19P Yamaha prop.
I was able to get out this afternoon for a bit. The SHO is mounted on a 8in set back third hole from the top with all my gear & tackle rear livewell and fuel tank full 58.6mph quartering with a 1 foot chop was the best so far with the 21M. I am turning 6000 to 6100rpm.
Joe,
Sounds good. How did the prop do holding up the bow of the boat? Let us know what you think after you get some time driving the boat. If I am understanding your mount, you have 2 open holes above your mounting bolts on the set back plate?
Joe –
The problems some of us are having with the Salt Water series II prop are:
1. Porpoising at full throttle unless trimed nearly all the way down.
2. Not holding in the turns.
3. Big rooster tail. (big waste of thrust)
How does the 21 pitch Pro Series compare on these performance characteristics?
Also, I see several Yamaha Pro series props. Specifically there is a Performance 3 and a Performance 4. Which prop are you using?
I don’t know what series it is, it’s stamped 21M. I ran some very hard turns yesterday I cannot get it to blow out unless I was trimmed way to far to begin with. The motor looks to have only one hole left to raise it and I believe that would be too much. This prop gets the bow up plenty and seems to have good Stern lift. For a Yamaha 3 blade it’s not bad… I ran this same prop on my WX1900 200HPDI and it ran 49-51 but would blow out a bit in turns. I want to try a 22 Bravo 1 but probably won’t be tis year. There is a porpoising issue in the mid range if you don’t trim down or throttle past it. All in all I’m impressed so far but I’d like to see what a Bravo will do as far as the porpoising issue but for now I can deal with it.
According to Jim @ SBC he cannot get the pro series right now they’ve been discontinued while Yamaha is changing some stuff they just happened to find one on the shelf or I would’ve been stuck with a saltwater II.
My Dad has ran the pro series 21 on his 14′ 2060 since new. Have tried a ton of props and its our favorite. I have ran this prop on my 2190 the last 2.5 years.
The only other prop I liked on the 2060 was the 19p Tempest.
I am going to invest in the Flo-Torq hub. I have a 21p Tempest plus left over from my Merc days. I will give that a try and let everyone know.
Wont be able to spin the tempest 21 very well and hole shot will be sluggish.
what is your reasoning to say this?
what is your reasoning to say this?
I have one fully balanced and sharpened and have tried it on the 2060 with 250 Offshore/jackplate and also on my 2190 with jackplate. 5500 rpms can run higher out of the water and get more rpm but no speed.
Be curious what you see!
I was able to get out this afternoon for a bit. The SHO is mounted on a 8in set back third hole from the top with all my gear & tackle rear livewell and fuel tank full 58.6mph quartering with a 1 foot chop was the best so far with the 21M. I am turning 6000 to 6100rpm.
joe,
I was just rereading the posts, it looks like you have your motor mounted fairly high on your set back plate. If understand your post, you only have one more up on your set up. Mine is set to where I can only lower mine one more hole. I had a guy, that I respect for his knowlegde on set up and props, that I need to raise my motor a couple of holes based on the info I gave him. When I was loaded heavy last week, one of the guys looked at the prop while we were running about 30mph, and told me that he red stripe is at the waterline and the rest is underwater. That is telling me that my motor is way to deep, buried is the term he used. He also told me, that i could try all the props in the world, but until I get my engine height set right, i would be wasting my time. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I am going to check this out this weekend, and get a look at it myself.
I’m seeing 5800-5900 RPMs with the 22P Bravo 1 depending on where I have the Jack plate. 2 guys tournament loaded and livewell full I’m right around 58mph.
I found the Bravo 1 had just as good if not a little better hole shot than the 18P saltwater my boat came with. It also holds really well on turns. Overall, I found that with the increase in stern lift, this prop also gave the boat a much smoother ride.
I think Justins post above might be the answer to our propping questions. I tried the Bravo I FS in 21 pitch and achieved everything from a handling perspective that I was hoping for. No porpoising, no rooster tail, and rock solid in the turns. The problem I had with this prop was the WOT 5400 rpms. These motors need to run at higher RPMs. I was getting 55 mph which I am happy with. Without a Jack Plate, this prop in a 19.5 pitch might achieve the higher rpms I am missing. Since I’m already invested in the 21p Bravo I FS I chose to stay with that prop and went the next step and ordered a power Jack Plate. If I get performance similar to Justin, I will be ecstatic. I will report back on my results once I get my new Jack Plate installed. There are always small differences in hulls and motors, so I might not get the same result as Justin. Keeping my fingers crossed!
After speaking with a few 2060 owners, I’m convinced that a Jack Plate is the answer to increased performance. After trying 7 different props with my 2060, I’ve found that each prop was a little different as to what engine height was optimal. Optimal engine height would even change with varying water conditions. Without a jack plate Id never be able to adjust my engine height on the fly and never have the precise height adjustments a jack plate can offer, both of which are needed to get optimal performance out of a high end prop in my opinion.
The 6″ electric jack plate from Powrtran was definetly one of the best options I added to my boat. Next add on will be trim tabs this winter to help the ride on really rough days.
Justin –
I have heard concern about insufficient water pressure when raising a jack plate to high. With the way the SHO lower unit is designed, is a water pressure gauge needed?
Not to make this seem like a chronic issue with the WX2060 but I also just bought a 2016 and I am having porpoising issues as well. If there are any waves at all then it will porpoise until I hit 45+ even keeping it trimmed down all the time. I have sparse tackle on board, empty livewells, and a single passenger. About the only weight I have is a relatively full tank of fuel. The holeshot is fine and I can get it up to 58 at ~6000rpm so I see no other performance issues. This bothers me because I have the Standard 250SHO using the factory 8″ setback and the 19 pitch saltwater series stainless 3 blade prop. Given that it comes from the factory with the kicker it should be optimized for the extra weight already. Last weekend on the St Croix river I could not run at 30-35mph due to the tendency to porpoise in the waves. So I either had to run faster which wasn’t safe in that traffic or go slower and hover near 25 which is barely on-plane. So what am I missing? With a brand new rig do I really need to tweak it to get it to perform properly? I could see tweaking if I modified a boat by adding the weight of a kicker but I shouldn’t have to mess with this on a factory rigged boat like this. Any suggestions? Where do you draw the line between poor trim and poor setup? Does every 2060 have this issue?
You are correct Phil, I can only raise my motor one more hole. I checked WOT cavitation plate height and it is right at water level which I believe is where it’s supposed to be? On the lake every day for the past 7 days I can say I really like this boat! There are a few things I need to get figured out and one is the porpoising from 30-45mph!! I can trim it out no problem but i believe I will get ahold of a Bravo prop and see what that does as soon as I can. I was fully loaded with 4-5 people every day and was still seeing 56-57mph @ 6000rpm with the 21m. Couple days we had 1.5-2 footers and had no problem running WOT 56-57mph relatively smoothly across them.
I am going out and do some obeservation on where the cavition plate is, in relation to the water. I had 3 guys with me a couple of weeks ago, 1000 lbs of fisherman. One of the guys look over the back when I was running and mentioned it later. He told me that the red line on the SHO lower unit was at the water line. So, that is telling me I am too deep on my setup, motor is mounted in 2nd hole from the top. I am going out tomorow with the wife and have her drive, while I take a look at the cavation plate. I want to see exactly where it is for myself. I put a straight edge on it and the cavation plate seems to be between the bottom of the boat, and the edge of the step in the back. Everything I know about setup is you want the cavation plate even with the bottom of the boat, wet/splashed, but not under the surface, so this is a little confusing for me. I also know that boat manufacturers have a tendency to be ultra conseravative on engine height, so it doesn’t surprize me that the cav plate may be low. I have boat scheduled into the marina to have the motor raised, just not sure how much yet. After I get the cavation plate height set correctly, I want to start playing with props. Justin seems to be doing well with the 22p, he has a 6″ setback hyd jackplate, but Sod Farmer is having trouble turning the 21p, with 8″ set back plate, Justin is able to fine tune his engine height on the fly. So, I will probably start with a 20p, and move up from there. I want to keep as much top end speed as I can, but I will gladly give up some for a better handling boat. Maybe I will get lucky and keep the speed and pick up the handling. Unforntantly my marinia is brand new to Skeeter and has not been much help. I am pushing my guy to bring this handling issue up at the dealer meeting this month. Hopefully, there will be other dealers who do the same. Yamaha has never been know for their props, and maybe that has something to do with it too. Has anyone that is having problems, look at their cav plate height?
Phil –
My cavitation plate is just above the water level (I only have one more hole to raise it). Can’t wait to get my jack plate installed. That should happen by the end of the week.
I think there is a formula that calculates how high above the bottom of the boat your cavitation plate should be. The further back your motor is, the higher you should have your motor. The water rises after the boat passes, so with the 8″ setback you will run higher than the same boat w/o a setback.
Yea, I checked her this weekend. Hole shot from dead stop to plane was 4.2 sec. pretty good I thought. Made some real hard turns and she only blew out once, and I think it was the waves that caused that. Couldn’t find any water flat enough for WOT throttle check, but did get to look at the cav plate, and as suspected she is deep. I think raising it a hole is a good start. I am debating on getting a demo prop on the Bravo 1 fs in a 20 pitch, based on what SF has been reporting. I will also be trying my Tempest Plus 21p. Picking up the boat on Sat morning. So I am hoping mother Erie will cooperate with me this weekend, and give me some flat water somewhere. SF, once you get your jackplate installed, I bet you will be fine with that 21p. I think Justin is able to get his set up fine tuned a little better, to be able to spin the 22p. You mention that formula for the cav plate using a setback plate, the other thing we need to keep in mind is the small cut out we have on our transom right above the pad. That has to be figured in as well.
Phil if you get a chance to try the 21 Tempest I’d like to know what it does. I suspect it’ll be too much cup ….. I’m thinking a 19 Tempest or 20 if they even made a 20 would be better RPM these SHOs need to run 6000!
Joe, I pick the boat up Friday night. My plan is to run the current SWS 2 19p, and try the Tempest Plus 21p this weekend. I hope mother Erie let’s me. We are getting that rain/storm that took out Louisiana right now. I am hopeful the SWS 2 is going to work. Yamaha lists the operating range for the SHO from 5000-6000 rpm’s. Everything I have read or heard is that the SHO makes its best power from 5500-5800 rpm’s, and that the max power is closer to 275-280hp. So I am shooting for upper rpm range, to low and you wind up lugging your motor and doing damage that way. Have any of you talked to your Skeeter dealers? If so what are they telling you? I have, and all I get is, “I will talk to the Skeeter/Yamaha reps and see what they have to say”, and then nothing. My dealer is brand new to Skeeter, so no experience to draw on from previous boats. Well, I will report back after I get my testing done. Wish me luck.
I have talked to my dealer as a matter of fact I’m meeting one of the guys halfway right now to get my boat to them to fix a fuel vent issue. They all claim no one is having any porpoising issues although I’ve talked to or chatted online with 4 people who are! I also talked with 3 prop shops and they’re not sure the prop is the issue but maybe just the setup with the set back/stepped transom. I had an extensive conversation with 2 guys that said it’s very likely i will have to run trimmed down a lot until the 40+mph range and that’s just the way it is. If I’m running trimmed down 80% or so until into the 40’s the boat runs fine and it runs like a scalded cat at full trim anything over 45mph. I can easily make it not porpoise 30-45 I just never had to run that much trim down on my WX1900 but that was a completely different hull and no setback. Couple people say it’s the setback amplifying the issue. I spoke with Justin and his runs great if he drops his jack plate at slower speeds but you shouldn’t have to do that if your balanced right although that’s how alot of bass boats are. The other guys here are running 1-2 holes lower with the saltwater II props and having the same results which is what my dealer wants to do and I told them it’s not going to change it much because the guys setup that way are still doing it. I believe a Bravo or Rev 4 might help but I don’t feel there’s a 3 blade that will. I’m thinking about adding trim tabs now for a few reasons …. For one I hear they’re great in rough water and I think they may help u run trimmed up at slower speeds. First I want to test a four blade.
Not to make this seem like a chronic issue with the WX2060 but I also just bought a 2016 and I am having porpoising issues as well. If there are any waves at all then it will porpoise until I hit 45+ even keeping it trimmed down all the time.
Wooden Boy,
Just curious about what hole your engine is mounted in? Mine is mounted in the 2nd hole from the top. I just had the marina raise it a hole, but haven’t had time to run it yet.
Joe,
I can trim down and get thru the proposing in the 30-45mph range with two on board, fairly easy now, it takes some work but can be done. Mine gets bad when I start putting weight in back, I run 3-4 of us in my boat a lot, I am a big guy, 6’1″ 250LBS (mostly muscle…lol) and my buddies are too. You add a full livewell at 200lbs. then another 250-500lbs of men, that is a lot of beef. One of the big selling points for me was the jump seats in the back deck. Oh well, I can’t wait to get to the lake and pick up the boat and start trying to get this worked out. I have been trying to get a demo on Bravo 1 in a 20p, but can not find one.
As I mentioned before, I’ve yet to have any issues at all with porpoising but from the sounds of it I think some of you guys might want to take a look at weight positioning and trim levels to solve your problem not prop selection, as I’ve gone through 7 different props now and have yet to experience a porpoise issue with any of them.
If a boat is not loaded proportionately, and the motor is not trimmed down at take off you’re gonna experience porpoising regardless of which make or model boat you operate. What I’ve found is that these boats need to be on plane and on up on their pad before you start tinkering with your trim levels.
With that said, the ONLY time I’ve had a porpoise issue was due to operator error on my end when I forgot to lower the jack plate and I had the motor raised a good 3-4 inches upon take off. Having a jack plate does allow me the advantage to fine tune my prop setups but in my honest opinion offers no magical benefit to cure a porpoising issue since adjusting trim levels on the motor and raising the jack plate level are essentially achieving the same effect just in different ways.
These boats take time to learn just like any boat does as each boat will have its own unique nuances. I’ve got 100+ hours on mine since April and I’m still trying to figure little things out to help mine run better. If I could offer any more advice it would be to run the boat for a while, tinker with the trim levels as well as weight distribution and then determine if you’re still having issues.
Justin –
I had the chance last evening to try out my boat with the a jack plate. I gained a little rpms and a little speed with my Bravo I FS 21P. Still not what you are getting with the 22P Bravo I FS. In all fairness, the lake was to small to really wring out max performance. I was also running in 90 degree temps and humidity which isn’t ideal for max engine performance. In addition, there are small differences between boats and motors so we shouldn’t all expect identical results.
The handling issues many of us are seeing (porpoising and blowing out in the turns) were much much improved!!! The Bravo I prop solved these problems even before I installed the jack plate. I understand your comments on how to shift weight in a boat to affect performance (porpoising), but there is only so much weight to be shifted. All of the storage in these boats is up front. There is only one seat up front and I haven’t found anyone brave enough to sit up there at 50+ mph while the boat is porpoising. Trimming the bow down all the way down is the only solution with the stock SWS II Yamaha prop. In my opinion, trimming down all the way all the time isn’t a reasonable solution and I won’t accept it. When I moved my motor up one hole, chine walking became a problem. I also experienced having the back of the boat trying to pass the front if I turned very much at speed. Neither of these conditions are safe.
I’ve tinkered with the SWS II prop (including sharpening and balancing and adding cup) and boat set up as much as humanly possible and it will not work in an acceptable manner for me with my boat. This boat needs to run a different prop. In my case I believe it will be a four blade Bravo I FS. The prop alone solved my performance problems. The Jack plate is a very nice upgrade but you are right about it not solving the porpoising issue. Without a Jack plate, I would try a Bravo I FS 20P to get the Rpms up. Based on my experience and several others, I think Skeeter would be doing everyone a big favor by selling this boat with a more appropriate prop for this otherwise great boat.
In my opinion, trimming down all the way all the time isn’t a reasonable solution and I won’t accept it.
There’s no need to keep the boat trimmed down at all times but you do need to be diligent and keep the trim buried until your running up on the pad. If you trim up before your on plane and the boat is running up on its pad you’re going to porpoise regardless of what boat your running.
I’ve ran the 18 and 19P SWS props and although I chose to move to the Bravo I and Pro Series props, I never experienced porpoising with the SWS props. With that said, I should mention that my initial tests with the 22P Bravo gave me great performance with a light load and no gas but I haven’t been overly impressed with a full load performance as of late as I’m only turning 5600 RPMs and just north of 56MPH. Planning on giving the 21P Bravo a good workout this upcoming week on LOW and I’ll report back my findings.
Justin –
Out boats are apparently not reacting to the SWSII prop the same. This prop makes my boat porpoise beyond anything I have ever seen. There are others with the same problem and no amount of waiting to get up to speed before trimming makes it go away. I wish it was a easy to solve on all of our boats, as you have suggested.
Justin –
I will be anxious to here how your boat does with the 21P Bravo I. Reporting results has been helpful in trying to get the best set-up. This is an expensive process but learning from others with the same boat helps keep cost down for all of us. I owe you and others a big thanks for sharing information.
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