Wiring Schematic for a 2012 MX1825

Does any one have a wiring schematic for a 2012 MX1825. Plan on hooking up a new Humminbird on the dash tonight. I want to tie into an accessory terminal.

don’t do it, run wire directly to the battery…

Yes, that’s simpler, and I just saw a video where they were talking about making sure you have good clean power to your unit. Thanks. a
ny other input out there.

I just installed my HB999, it’s actually quite easy on a MX boat with easy access everywhere…Don’t forget your inline fuse..

If installing on the dash console, make sure to route your power wire from the top down before routing back to the battery, this is because the Humminbird power cord has a big ball shaped filter installed on it, this will save you from drilling a larger wire access hole through the dash…I did this backwards so I had to drill a 1.25″ hole vs a 1″….but I covered it up with a RAM cable channel plate anyways, so no big deal for me.. Drill slow & in reverse through the gel and DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN your mount bolts, I ended up with a small gelcoat crack on my dash due to over tightening (purely cosmetic, but really pissed me off)

Attachments:

1. 

   photo.jpg
   

with a quality accessory panel like Skeeter uses, you will probably be just fine, imho. using the accessory box is easier, reduces the number of wires on your battery points, and provides inline breaker protection. i’ve read about people having some issues when using breaker panels, but my experience has been all good.

on my last Skeeter i ran a 998, 1198, and 678 through the accessory panel. on my new boat i’ve wired my 999, 1199, and Helix all to the accessory panel. i used the accessory panel on my previous 5 boats within the past 10 years as well. all worked just like they were designed: big motor on, kicker motor on, trolling motor on, radio on, livewell pumps on, boat lights on…crystal clear sonar, DI, and SI images with zero interference.

Skeeter pre-rigs their boats with extra accessory power and ground lines, making it very easy to rig if you choose to use them. there should be a few open lines (marked ACC1, ACC2, etc) under the console and at least one behind the trolling motor plug up front. if you run it through the accessory panel (which is easier) and experience any interference, you can always change and do the extra work to re-rig it to the battery.

Nice set up, thanks.

Thanks for the feedback guys, I will be working in the garage tonight hooking things up.

I used the factory supplied accessory wires to power a 898 at the bow and a 898 at the console without any problems on my MX 1825. I also used the accessory wires on my last boat, a Ranger 618.
These wires are already fused so I did not add an in line fuse.

Also, my MX 1825 had the accessory wires behind a access panel on side under the console.

Hello pale ryder, I had looked under the dash and could not find any accessory wires. I started to run a fused wire from the battery up to the front then was thinking about your post. I decided to look again. I snipped about 8 cable ties and found all the accessory wires were there, they had been hidden away inside a bundle of wires. I tied into accessory 1, and good to go. I was out checking my transducer set up yesterday and had no issues. If I ever do have power problems I have a wire run now directly for the battery. Thanks for your post.

Raymond Blimkie wrote:

Hello pale ryder, I had looked under the dash and could not find any accessory wires. I started to run a fused wire from the battery up to the front then was thinking about your post. I decided to look again. I snipped about 8 cable ties and found all the accessory wires were there, they had been hidden away inside a bundle of wires. I tied into accessory 1, and good to go. I was out checking my transducer set up yesterday and had no issues. If I ever do have power problems I have a wire run now directly for the battery. Thanks for your post.

You’re welcome, I’m glad to help.
I haven’t had a problem yet using the accessory wires. If I do, I’ll run new wires.