Which depth crankbaits are good to use on the wingdams? Never fished before so I want to have correct tackle when going.
Also we may pitch some jigs into the wingdams so which size jig heads do you prefer?
Thanks
Wingdams come in all types of depths so you need to match the crankbaits and jigs to each dam. I would start out with some cheaper baits until you get used to fishing dams. Maybe find some flicker shads or smash shads on sale and buy a bunch in various sizes.
Jason, I like baits that achieve their running depth quick. DT series, Bombers and like baits. DT 6,7 and 10s have a place and the Bomber fat free and 6A are good baits. However you do loose them so I still toss smash shads and flickers a bit because of $$. Most dams are 4-7 feet down. Just make sure to have a few #7 size shad style baits and a couple quick diving DT or Bombers and you will be fine.
3/16-1/4 oz jigs are good. If you need to use one heavier then the water is too fast on that dam. 3/16 seems to be the go to size for a dam with the right flow regardless of what your putting on the jig.
These guys know more than I do but I agree you are going to lose some crankbaits and jigs. I prefer to use jointed shads and I go one size larger than the depth of the dam. Ie, if the bottom of the face of the dam is 7′ I’ll throw a #7 jointed rap as they dive to about 10′. That way, they dive quicker and start making contact.
I’m a big fan of letting the cranks and jigs sweep across the face so I usually throw at a 45 degree angle to the dam and let the bait move across the dam. As it makes contact I usually pause or slow the retrieve. Do the same with plastics in the colder water.
I’ve also learned that not all dams are equal….a handful of casts and I move. Low water and flow work the dam from outside in, high water and flow work the dam inside out.
When you get a big walleye to crush a crankbait on the pause after it’s bouncing off the dam you’ll be hooked.
Do not know much about WDs but have spent a lot of time throwing cranks. Cranks trigger strikes when they make contact with stuff: rocks, wood, weeds, whatever, if you loose a spendy crank you will get shy about bangin’ rocks or throwing it close to shore. Even the guys who really know their stuff have a bunch of cheapies on hand. Good Luck
Sometimes when I’m dealing with really fast water, to hold the bait at a wing dam I’ll use a drop swivel above the bait leader and use a .75-1 oz sacrificial sinker on a lower test line tied onto the standoff drop line. The heavy sinker holds the bait where I want it. When you get bit and set the hook, the sinker breaks off and the fight is on. Loosing sinkers is a lot cheaper than constantly loosing baits.
I toss blades before I throw cranks 
There’s a ton of info on wing dams in the Mississippi River Walleye forum. 
Mark Courts and a few other pros have really made an old tactic pretty popular on wingdams. throwing bass cranks. To be honest, you can pick up slugs of them at like swap meets and flea markets. We have been for ages and using them to fish for walleyes on the river.
one of my favorite crank to throw at wingdams are clackin raps with that goofy front hook replaced. I bought up tons of them when they were being discounted pretty heavily. they sink perfectly and work. But you will lose a ton of cranks. and jigs, and anything else you throw at them.
you could always buy a lure retriever tool…
and get some of them back… after getting two lures back its paid for itself!!!
Mark
Would like to fish WDs on either pool 3 or 4, can someone link a map of where they are? Thanks, googled it and was not able to find a good map.
I toss blades before I throw cranks
Obviously it changes from flow rate. But what size blades do you typically throw?
Would like to fish WDs on either pool 3 or 4, can someone link a map of where they are? Thanks, googled it and was not able to find a good map.
Most map chips have the WD marked. You will need this to get set up in the right area/depth. (Also a visual of how the current is hitting it) A paper map will be pretty much worthless on the water – IMO.
-J.
Thanks Jon
Would like to fish WDs on either pool 3 or 4, can someone link a map of where they are? Thanks, googled it and was not able to find a good map.
My garmin has all the wing dams marked. But before having that you can visually see the water from change and then figure it out from there
Normally where there is a green or red can there is a wing dam.
Would like to fish WDs on either pool 3 or 4, can someone link a map of where they are? Thanks, googled it and was not able to find a good map
Pool 3 has a lot of wing dams along the entire stretch. Pool 4 doesn’t have many wing dams upstream of Lake Pepin. I’ve found the Lake Master chip to be very accurate on Pools 2 and 3. But even better than a mapping chip is the ability to see the telltale ripple line. The peak of the wing dam lays just upstream of the ripple line. The ripple line will really “stand up” when a breeze is blowing upstream. A strong downstream wind can suppress the ripple line.
A green or red can is often placed at the tip of a wing dam but not always.
Wing-Dam.png
A green or red is often placed at the tip of a wing dam but not always
I run Navionic and Lakemaster. I haven’t seen a wing dam or closing dam that hasn’t been marked on the chips.
Just don’t count on the navigational cans to tell you where they are. Many on the lower end of P4 are not marked with a can. Some in the middle of P3 if I recall as well.
I would also add that trying to visually gauge the flow over the dam is tricky business. In this low water you need to be really careful.
I’ve been high centered on a dam before….it’s not real fun.
Would like to fish WDs on either pool 3 or 4, can someone link a map of where they are? Thanks, googled it and was not able to find a good map.
Mississippi river guide.
Google it.
Good to know the rules too.
They’ll also be on your mn humminbird chip.
I don’t know that I would suggest starting your river fishing on wing dams
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Randy Wieland wrote:</div>
I toss blades before I throw cranksObviously it changes from flow rate. But what size blades do you typically throw?
Summer time is 1/2 oz and I very seldom change. Only change boat location sweep or if I’m working the wash out hole in front of the dam
Changing topics just a little bit, I was out last night launching out of Baypoint and stayed within a few miles of there. For that narrower stretch of P4 what’s the distance some of you go with for your SI? We went with anywhere between 30-60 feet, just wondering if others have it dialed in for that area.
Very helpful-thanks guys
Changing topics just a little bit, I was out last night launching out of Baypoint and stayed within a few miles of there. For that narrower stretch of P4 what’s the distance some of you go with for your SI? We went with anywhere between 30-60 feet, just wondering if others have it dialed in for that area.
Shallower the water the less effective si distance is. Whether you narrow it or not… the information is reduced.
Think of it like this. Si is like a flashlight. Casting shadows. If you take the stadium lights at a football field and move them a few feet off the ground vs way up there… you get entirely different lighting. Put a person in front of that low light and their shadow will cover anything behind them. Whereas a light up high casts a shorter shadow and therefore blocks less beyond the object.
So… reduce your coverage or don’t… its happening anyway… so yes, narrow it up for better detail of the area that is actually useful.
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