Who Uses an Oil Extractor

Recently ran into an issue with my outboard where the previous owner stripped the oil plug threads. I am getting it resolved with a heli coil but this got me to wondering. Who uses an oil extractor for oil changes? And other than initial cost is there any downside?

I have a couple at work. We use them to suck out certain fluids on stuff without drain plugs like front diffs on some trucks and such. I use it to change oil on my Honda generator. It works pretty slick, most of them do not move the fluid real quick so it takes a little time to drain it. You have to have an air compressor to use them.

They’re used all over the place for large boats that live in slips. I have one that looks like a weed sprayer, but it draws a vacuum when you pump it up. I use a small hose that I can feed down the dipstick tube to the bottom of the oil reservoir to make sure I get all the oil out. They do draw really slow if the oil is not warmed up.

I use them on inboard outboards and some outboards have such a terrible configuration for the drain plug that it avoids a huge mess to use the extractor.

As others have mentioned it really helps if you can warm up the engine before extracting the oil. I always try to do changes right after I got home from fishing or boating or when I’m doing other people’s changes I warm up the engine if possible.

It also helps if you’re one of those guys who can let good enough be good enough. Extractors aren’t perfect and in some cases they can leave a small amount of oil behind.

Some guys are so bothered by the idea that an ounce and a half of oil might have been left in the engine that it causes insomnia, depression, fits of rage, and feelings of hopelessness that eventually result in a complete mental breakdown.

TheFamousGrouse wrote:

Some guys are so bothered by the idea that an ounce and a half of oil might have been left in the engine that it causes insomnia, depression, fits of rage, and feelings of hopelessness that eventually result in a complete mental breakdown.

its not the once of oil left behind its the sludge and crap if there is any in the oil pan that would bug me

guy from work is too lazy to change his oil so he took his suv into walmart for a oil change and they used an extractor. they got the extractor tube suck and actually broke off inside the engine. he ended up having to take it to a shop and had to actually unbolt the motor from the mounts and move the engine just to get the oil pan off on his model vehicle i guess.

its not the once of oil left behind its the

A guy from work is too lazy to change his oil so he took his suv into walmart for a oil change and they used an extractor. they got the extractor tube suck and actually broke off inside the engine. he ended up having to take it to a shop and had to actually unbolt the motor from the mounts and move the engine just to get the oil pan off on his model vehicle i guess.
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He sure saved himself mucho $$$$ by skipping regular oil changes.

I’ve been using one for twenty years. My boat is on dock and this has worked great for me. Never had an issue and from start to finish it takes less than 10 minutes. That includes a filter change.

I use a mityvac on my Yamaha and lawn mower. Works well for both.

I bought one for my inboard. It works slick! I have heard the horror stories about breaking it off, but I have not had problems.

In fact, it’s so slick and mess free that I have used it on my autos, too. The only issue I have run into is that the tube isn’t long enough to hit the bottom of the oil pan on my truck, so I have to do that one the hard way.

This is the one I have: https://www.westmarine.com/west-marine-manual-oil-changer-6.9-quart-11047123.html

Warm the motor up, stick the tube in the dip stick tube, pump it up, and let it do its thing.

I’ve used one for the last 5 years on my big Yamahas, does a great job. Also is the way they do it at the boat center.
I use a mityvac. Paid for itself the 1st oil change plus I can have the oil changed in the time it takes me to drive to a dealer.
There is virtually zero old oil left after sucking it out. I always check my oil level after the 1st time using it after changing and oil looks to be new, not diluted with left over old oil.

Thanks all. I think most dealers and boat shops use extractors also. Never thought of it until running into this stripped thread issue, but might consider it going forward.

Lindy, I would avoid the 12v motor type. They run about $25-$30 on Amazon. I had two of them and both fried. I haven’t used my new one yet. It’s the same as Ralph bought at $79. I thought the electric would be the way to go but it’s always a hassle running wires to the batteries. You’ll never burn out a hand pump.

Have to admit though, if you wait till late fall to do it, and temp is about 50 or below, takes awhile to suck out

A long while! First time I needed to use mine was in the spring when I found water in the oil on the starboard. Two pumpouts and refills before I could start the engine to warm the oil. At least an hour of pumping…and might be the reason one of my electrics fried.

Coletrain27 wrote:

its not the once of oil left behind its the sludge and crap if there is any in the oil pan that would bug me

Guys seem to worry a lot about this. If the engine has been maintained, there isn’t any. Why? Because that’s what the oil filter is for.

With modern oil and especially synthetic oil, there simply are no deposits or sludge. The combustion is so good, the oil detergents are so good, and the oil doesn’t break down even with extreme use.

If you warm up the engine (as you should) before a change, anything that may happen to be in there and has not yet been caught by the filter, will be in suspension and will be pulled out.

Except for that infamous last ounce and a half of motor oil.

I typically wouldn’t have an issue warming the oil first, I do it now anyway. I just put the muffs on and run a garden hose for 5-10 minutes

What model of the mityvac are you guys running? Went to their website looks like they have a bunch of models.

I’ll add, if the drain plug is in the rear of the oil pan, the sludge wouldn’t come out anyway…or most of it.

Would love to run my big yama 1st but it a real pain to do on muffs. There is more ports than the normal muffs cover. I know at the dealer they taped off a couple of them. Maybe I’ll try that sometime.

Musky Ed wrote:

Would love to run my big yama 1st but it a real pain to do on muffs. There is more ports than the normal muffs cover. I know at the dealer they taped off a couple of them. Maybe I’ll try that sometime.

Musky, get your hands on a 55 gallon plastic drum, lay the drum on its side with the bungs straight up and down, cut a slot 10 inches wide from one end of the barrel to the other to just under the top and bottom of the barrel.
Remove the prop, trim the motor up and slide the barrel under it, lower the motor and fill the drum with water.
You can safely run that Yammie that way as all of the ports will be covered.
When done, remove the lower bung and drain it.

Keep a garden hose running to keep the barrel full while you are running the motor.

Thanks, also the model # is mc7201 I think. The orientation has went up I see. Got mine for about 75 bucks when I got it.
I see harbor freight has a clone cheaper, also has the same one you can hook a compressor to. I know at the dealer, theirs was air opperated and sucked it out really quick. May buy one to try as my kis wants to get one like I have.

Thanks Musky

Musky Ed wrote:

I know at the dealer, theirs was air opperated and sucked it out really quick. May buy one to try as my kis wants to get one like I have

That’s what we have at the shop. I will say that I have not tried the hand pump style for this and would not have thought it would work well, but I now see several of you guys do it that way.

Just did my kids 250 SHO tonight. It was right about 60deg out. Took about 20 min to pull 6 1/2 qts out. A lot faster than 45 to 50 deg. After it was out, I pumped it in to a couple empty contaniers in about 8-10 minutes by just using the bigger hose. You can pour it out, but gets a little messy.

Musky Ed wrote:

Would love to run my big yama 1st but it a real pain to do on muffs. There is more ports than the normal muffs cover. I know at the dealer they taped off a couple of them. Maybe I’ll try that sometime.

You could run it on the flush port. I know the manual says not to but it’s a great debate to read on Facebook . I’ve ran mine once on it, my buddy numerous times . I’ve always just changed the oil once a season .I can’t imagine I put more than 100 hours on the oil a year.