Which Rod(s) for my collection???

I’ve been going back and forth on adding a new rod (or two) to my collection. This past year I have been moving “up” from the Snitch/Dead Meat/Ticklestick type of rods, all of which are great rods, to some a little further up the price scale. Not wanting to debate the premise of paying more doesn’t get you more fish theory or that paying more is always an increase in quality, as there is merit to both sides I believe.

I’m looking for input on some options to add to my overall rod case for the types of fishing I do. If I broke down my ice fishing time focused on each species I’d say that I fish walleye 40%, perch 40%, and crappie/gills 20%. Most time spent in waters with perch and walleye together. I did run into a situation where I wished I had a rod with a spring bobber or the like for 3-4mm tungstens for gills, but didn’t. I’d like to carry 5-6 rods in my case that cover the areas of fishing I run into. What I have is listed below with what I am looking to possibly add. Feedback is appreciated.

Light/Ultralight Have: 29 Snitch, 28 Dead Meat Considering to add: 24L St Croix Legend Black, JT Panhandler 24

Medium Light Have: 28ML Fenwick World Class Considering to add: Tucr Bullwhip

Medium Have: 30M Fenwick World Class, 32 in Custom Carbon *Not considering adding

Ideally I would have a Light/Ultralight for pannies, 2 ML’s for walleye/perch, keep 1 of my Mediums, and use the snitch/dead meat for a deadstick. That would give me 5 in the case and if I wanted to bring the other medium then 6. Right now it makes sense to me to add a St Croix Legend Black for $60 for the minimal time I focus on pannies rather than $110 on the JT Panhandler; which saves some money to buy something like the Tucr Bullwhip ($120).

I would put the Bullwhip in the light/Ultralight category due to its tip. Though it does have a strong backbone. My recommendation would be one Bullwhip and one Fusion. The Bullwhip for the smaller tungsten jigs and tiny spoons. The Fusion for largest tungsten jigs and small to medium spoons. The Bullwhip is a fiberglass noodle (sight) rod. The Fusion is a Carbon fiber (feel) rod.
Dan

For the UL/L rods to add, I would recommend a TUCR Precision Noodle or DH Customs Al Dente (it is lighter than the TUCR)

For the ML rod to add, I would lean toward a TUCR Fusion, great rod for perch and walleye. If the walleye where you fish are or can be bigger fish, then I would go with the JT Gold Digger. I wouldnt consider the TUCR Bullwhip to be a ML rod personally (to me this rod has a tip very similar to the Precision Noodle, just a quicker transition tot he backbone and a stiffer backbone than the Precision Noodle)

Just my opinions, Im sure you will get quite a few different ones

I’ve said it here before and will say it again. If you fish panfish and don’t have a Spring Bobber rod – You need one. I purchased 2 of the JT panhandler rods with the spring bobber this year and you could not ask for a better spring bobber rod. I know some here will say that a good quality Noodle rod will detect a light bite just as good as a Spring bobber. I own several TUC and Thorne brothers noodle rods ( Love both of them ) but there are days when the bite is so light you just wont detect the bite on a noodle rod. Prior to the JT panhandler rod the best spring bobber rod I had found was the Clam professional series rod with the built in spring bobber. I don’t think they make that model any longer and to be honest the JT is a better rod and about the same cost.

Great input thus far, thank you. I would add that I have a custom noodle rod but am not sure I am using it with the correct technique. The rod feels great, looks great, and shows me the hits but I am just struggling with it. I can see the bite but have trouble setting getting the hook set. I tend to use the wrist flick more than I lift my whole arm when setting the hook, so maybe this is an issue? I think that is why I gravitate to rods that have very sensitive tips but transition to backbone fairly quickly (Dead meat, snitch, ticklestick).

acarroline wrote:

Great input thus far, thank you. I would add that I have a custom noodle rod but am not sure I am using it with the correct technique. The rod feels great, looks great, and shows me the hits but I am just struggling with it. I can see the bite but have trouble setting getting the hook set. I tend to use the wrist flick more than I lift my whole arm when setting the hook, so maybe this is an issue? I think that is why I gravitate to rods that have very sensitive tips but transition to backbone fairly quickly (Dead meat, snitch, ticklestick).

You are exaclty right. The wrist flick hookset does not work well for noodle rods. You fluid arm raise hookset. When you flick the wrist, you don’t move the bait far enough. You’re really only moving the rod 10 inches or so, and for many noodle rods, that barely passes the tip. You need a much longer hookset to get to the backbone of the rod and to drive the hook into the fishes mouth.
Dan

Dan Baker wrote:

You are exaclty right. The wrist flick hookset does not work well for noodle rods. You fluid arm raise hookset. When you flick the wrist, you don’t move the bait far enough. You’re really only moving the rod 10 inches or so, and for many noodle rods, that barely passes the tip. You need a much longer hookset to get to the backbone of the rod and to drive the hook into the fishes mouth.
Dan

That is another reason I like the Spring bobber rod setup. I use a Wrist Flick hookset and don’t have any problem getting the hook drove into the fishes mouth at all. I think the time between the bite and the hook being driven home is a lot quicker on the spring bobber setup for sure. In deep water for sure anyway.

fishthumper wrote:

I’ve said it here before and will say it again. If you fish panfish and don’t have a Spring Bobber rod – You need one. I purchased 2 of the JT panhandler rods with the spring bobber this year and you could not ask for a better spring bobber rod. I know some here will say that a good quality Noodle rod will detect a light bite just as good as a Spring bobber. I own several TUC and Thorne brothers noodle rods ( Love both of them ) but there are days when the bite is so light you just wont detect the bite on a noodle rod. Prior to the JT panhandler rod the best spring bobber rod I had found was the Clam professional series rod with the built in spring bobber. I don’t think they make that model any longer and to be honest the JT is a better rod and about the same cost.

I am one of those people.
Not saying the JT panhandler isn’t a good rod.

What about a 30L (really 28 inch plus slip bobber) St. Croix Legend Black ice rod for pannies and either a JT Gold Digger or Tucr Fusion for that other ML rod???

acarroline wrote:

What about a 30L (really 28 inch plus slip bobber) St. Croix Legend Black ice rod for pannies and either a JT Gold Digger or Tucr Fusion for that other ML rod???

I wouldn’t hesitate one bit using any of those! I like that combo.

fishthumper wrote:

I’ve said it here before and will say it again. If you fish panfish and don’t have a Spring Bobber rod – You need one. I purchased 2 of the JT panhandler rods with the spring bobber this year and you could not ask for a better spring bobber rod. I know some here will say that a good quality Noodle rod will detect a light bite just as good as a Spring bobber. I own several TUC and Thorne brothers noodle rods ( Love both of them ) but there are days when the bite is so light you just wont detect the bite on a noodle rod. Prior to the JT panhandler rod the best spring bobber rod I had found was the Clam professional series rod with the built in spring bobber. I don’t think they make that model any longer and to be honest the JT is a better rod and about the same cost.

I wish this worked for me.

For some reason I’ve grown a tremor in my arm and cannot read bites on a noodle rod, don’t think a spring bobber rod would work any better. Who knows though.

I use the tucr BW for 3 to 5 mm tungsten jigs and the smallest/lightest spoons. The fusion gets used with regular jigs and spoons up to about 3/16 oz.
I have 2 of each.
Bigger spoons and Rippin Raps I use a tucr precision.

I’ve been pretty active in the arms race the last couple years and here’s where I’m at.

24″ St. Croix Legend Black Extra-Light w/spring bobber for the smallest baits in my little flip shack for the tough bites. 3mm tungsten, Gill Pills, little Demons, Ratsos, Rat Finkys, etc.

24″ JT Panhander w/spring bobber again in the little flip shack, tough bite, 3-4mm tungsten/plastic, etc.

28″ TUCR Noodle outside/inside 4mm tungsten/plastics.

30″ TUCR Bullwhip outside 4.5-5mm tungsten/plastics, small spoons, etc.

32″ TUCR Quick Tip outside Rippin Raps, Rips, larger spoons, etc.

My flip shack is small, so those 24″ carbon rods with the spring bobbers make for easier hook sets in the tight space and the short rods are easy to manage inside.

I also have a 48″ HT Ice Blues with a Celsius Blizzard Flat Line reel for a fun shallow water hole-hopper once in a while.

Ordered a 30 inch JT Panhandler with spring bobber, putting a sienna 500 on it with seagur Ice X 2lb flouro. I’ll hold off and see about adding a 32 inch TUCR fusion to the lineup prior to year’s end.

acarroline wrote:

Ordered a 30 inch JT Panhandler with spring bobber, putting a sienna 500 on it with seagur Ice X 2lb flouro. I’ll hold off and see about adding a 32 inch TUCR fusion to the lineup prior to year’s end.

Awesome rod and perfect reel.

acarroline wrote:

Ordered a 30 inch JT Panhandler with spring bobber, putting a sienna 500 on it with seagur Ice X 2lb flouro. I’ll hold off and see about adding a 32 inch TUCR fusion to the lineup prior to year’s end.

Great setup. I think you will be really happy with it.

Just a different thought. Have you considered longer rods to make life more comfortable? Over the years I’ve migrated to longer rods in the 39 to 43” range. No hunching over, much better control on cadences, no need for springs, and so on.

Randy Wieland wrote:

Just a different thought. Have you considered longer rods to make life more comfortable? Over the years I’ve migrated to longer rods in the 39 to 43” range. No hunching over, much better control on cadences, no need for springs, and so on.

My next adventure is going to be a 5′ or there about custom rod.

I have a rod that is about 40 inches, only use it for fishing out of the truck door. I’m typically in a shack which limits those options.

Randy Wieland wrote:

Just a different thought. Have you considered longer rods to make life more comfortable? Over the years I’ve migrated to longer rods in the 39 to 43” range. No hunching over, much better control on cadences, no need for springs, and so on.

I’ve tried the longer rod approach a few different times. Most of my fishing is done hole hoping out in the open. The problem I have with longer rods is the movement in the wind. Even a slight wind seems to move the tip around a lot. There seems to be times you have to hold the lure real steady for a short time to get the fish to bite, I’m just not able to do that with a longer rod. Most of the time I end up needing to hunch ( Like you said ) close to the hole and keep the rod tip as close to my body as possible to block the wind. I do think I’m going to have to give another longer rod a chance again. What one would you suggest?

fishthumper wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Randy Wieland wrote:</div>
Just a different thought. Have you considered longer rods to make life more comfortable? Over the years I’ve migrated to longer rods in the 39 to 43” range. No hunching over, much better control on cadences, no need for springs, and so on.

I’ve tried the longer rod approach a few different times. Most of my fishing is done hole hoping out in the open. The problem I have with longer rods is the movement in the wind. Even a slight wind seems to move the tip around a lot. There seems to be times you have to hold the lure real steady for a short time to get the fish to bite, I’m just not able to do that with a longer rod. Most of the time I end up needing to hunch ( Like you said ) close to the hole and keep the rod tip as close to my body as possible to block the wind. I do think I’m going to have to give another longer rod a chance again. What one would you suggest?

I’m with you on the longer rods sometimes being a pain depending on the application. When you start talking about a 40″ ice rod, you need quite a bit of real estate for hook sets as well as storage/transportation. I have caught a lot of nice fish on 28-32″ rods and enjoyed the fight with plenty of backbone too.

Randy Wieland wrote:

Just a different thought. Have you considered longer rods to make life more comfortable? Over the years I’ve migrated to longer rods in the 39 to 43” range. No hunching over, much better control on cadences, no need for springs, and so on.

I got the Mrs. A 36″ TUCR Precision and she loves it. Easier for her to land bigger fish. I think I’ll be getting one for myself.

I was doing some cleaning and found two 500 Siennas, new in the box! It was like Christmas!

I’ve tried the longer rod approach a few different times. Most of my fishing is done hole hoping out in the open. The problem I have with longer rods is the movement in the wind. Even a slight wind seems to move the tip around a lot. There seems to be times you have to hold the lure real steady for a short time to get the fish to bite, I’m just not able to do that with a longer rod. Most of the time I end up needing to hunch ( Like you said ) close to the hole and keep the rod tip as close to my body as possible to block the wind. I do think I’m going to have to give another longer rod a chance again. What one would you suggest?

These might not be applicable to your area and water depth, but I fish Mississippi River backwaters 95% of the time, so I added a 54″ and 62″ to my arsenal. These are amazingly light and crisp long rods.

https://www.radclifferods.com/ice-rods

fishthumper wrote:

What one would you suggest?

I build all my own rods, so I don’t know what any of the semi-custom builders have available. I have an assortment of 2wt through 4wt fly rod tip sections, a few various “ultralights, and a few other rods stripped down and built for ice. Most are IM 10 graphite and up to hybrid graphite/carbon.

I see a lot of longer rods built by others that use thin whimsy glass or solid thin carbon. That is where I think a lot of people have a poor experience with longer rods

The Radcliffe long rods are balanced, so they have a lighter than air feel about them. If you lay their handles right where you hold them across your outstretched finger they balance like a balance beam. I would think that would be hard to achieve with a normal reel on a long rod.