I’m restoring my mother’s 1980s 1600 angler and need to repaint some of the components like the console and exposed brackets. Lund has not responded to my email yet, so hoping someone here knows what paint Lund used in the early 80s. last thing I want is the new paint to blister and not adhere to it
Randy here is a link to the Lund Paint Codes.
that list only goes back to 1996. I need to know what type of paint was used in 1984. I don’t care about exact color match, just the compatibility of paints
Why would the link work for Randy and not me?
Why would the link work for Randy and not me?
Strange – the link worked on my mobile, but not from my PC. Also, I had previously looked at that paint list before posting here and that prompted the email to Lund, of which they still have not responded to
If color is not needed to be an exact, I would think a quality boat/marine paint such as…
WEST MARINE
SeaGloss Pro One-Part Polyurethane Topside Paint
Would someone explain why paint would blister in this situation?
It’s my understanding that once paint, varnish, poly, whatever is fully cured out, as I hope a 80s boat would be, that prep is the only thing that matters and you could coat with whatever product you choose?:???:
Would someone explain why paint would blister in this situation?
It’s my understanding that once paint, varnish, poly, whatever is fully cured out, as I hope a 80s boat would be, that prep is the only thing that matters and you could coat with whatever product you choose?:???:
Not necessarily true. If you were to say use a etching primer which is what is used on aluminum and bare metal on spots you burnt through sanding it could soften up the cured paint that it got on and make it peel away.
Also some paint products just don’t jive with others and will tend to fish eye or solvent pop on you which sucks because you have to resand it all and respray.
The best method for a full restoration is to to strip all old paint off with a orbital sandpaper and some 180 grit. and use a etching primer on it and a good single stage urethane topcoat and you shouldn’t have any problems with adhesion issues or solvent popping.
Lund used PPG acrylic urethane back then. Above the waterline. I repainted my 1987 Lund Predator with it after contacting Lund. Use zinc chromate to prime areas of exposed aluminum.
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