Anyone have any experience with these chokes. I have used turkey chokes, but am in the market now for a waterfowl choke for steel shot. Any help would be great.
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waterfowl chokes
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July 17, 2006 at 5:36 pm #18641
In a perfect world you should also determine what type of shot/FPS and manufacture you will use. All variables will patern differently. I use the standard chokes provided with my SBE and Nova. At the beigining of each season I pattern to determine what choke I will be using with the shells selected for the season.
July 17, 2006 at 5:36 pm #461100In a perfect world you should also determine what type of shot/FPS and manufacture you will use. All variables will patern differently. I use the standard chokes provided with my SBE and Nova. At the beigining of each season I pattern to determine what choke I will be using with the shells selected for the season.
July 17, 2006 at 8:28 pm #18654I use a pattern master and absolutely love it. In my opinion it’t the only choke to have. Use it for ducks geese, dosn’t matter if it’s 6 shot all the way to T shot this choke handles it all.
July 17, 2006 at 8:28 pm #461173I use a pattern master and absolutely love it. In my opinion it’t the only choke to have. Use it for ducks geese, dosn’t matter if it’s 6 shot all the way to T shot this choke handles it all.
drakesdemise
Residing in St. Paul, MN doing weekly travel throughout the five state Upper MidwestPosts: 976July 17, 2006 at 8:30 pm #18655I agree with chriss’ sentiment, that you must pattern for the load that you choose to shoot.
Unfortunately for most people, I have found most factory choke tubes to be garbage compared to aftermarket ones.
I do not want to start a war here, but a friend of mine, who owns a gun shop, ordered a new over-under for me a few years back.
He shot the same type of gun, so he let me borrow his aftermarket tubes. He suggested that I pattern with each.
Factory tubes left gaps the size of my fist at 40 yards, with #8 lead!
I bought a whole set of these tubes and have patterned everything from lead to steel, tungsten to heavy.
Do the comparison for yourself, hopefully with someone elses tubes, before you invest.
I own 5 briley tubes and 1 Patternmaster, they all work great!
cheers
drakesdemise
Residing in St. Paul, MN doing weekly travel throughout the five state Upper MidwestPosts: 976July 17, 2006 at 8:30 pm #461175I agree with chriss’ sentiment, that you must pattern for the load that you choose to shoot.
Unfortunately for most people, I have found most factory choke tubes to be garbage compared to aftermarket ones.
I do not want to start a war here, but a friend of mine, who owns a gun shop, ordered a new over-under for me a few years back.
He shot the same type of gun, so he let me borrow his aftermarket tubes. He suggested that I pattern with each.
Factory tubes left gaps the size of my fist at 40 yards, with #8 lead!
I bought a whole set of these tubes and have patterned everything from lead to steel, tungsten to heavy.
Do the comparison for yourself, hopefully with someone elses tubes, before you invest.
I own 5 briley tubes and 1 Patternmaster, they all work great!
cheers
July 17, 2006 at 8:31 pm #18656I also use a Patter Master choke tube. It has 5 lugs inside that slow the wad down and let the shot all come out at once. It is also a very tight pattern. Try it and you will like it.
July 17, 2006 at 8:31 pm #461176I also use a Patter Master choke tube. It has 5 lugs inside that slow the wad down and let the shot all come out at once. It is also a very tight pattern. Try it and you will like it.
July 17, 2006 at 9:49 pm #18663Quote:
At the beigining of each season I pattern to determine what choke I will be using with the shells selected for the season.
Well stated Chriss. Pattern every choke you buy and pattern them regularily. Shoot in all weather conditions and take note of how they react. You may have a nice spread, but the location will shift. My patterns seem to change by how tight my choke tubes are installed in the barrel. Try to be consistent with your shells and you should be fine. They don’t need to be expensive to work well in your gun, however you may pay more for the tubes that will last longer. I typically shot a modified untertaker for duck’in. They are pretty inexpensive, but it works well for me. (sometimes anyway
)
July 17, 2006 at 9:49 pm #461205Quote:
At the beigining of each season I pattern to determine what choke I will be using with the shells selected for the season.
Well stated Chriss. Pattern every choke you buy and pattern them regularily. Shoot in all weather conditions and take note of how they react. You may have a nice spread, but the location will shift. My patterns seem to change by how tight my choke tubes are installed in the barrel. Try to be consistent with your shells and you should be fine. They don’t need to be expensive to work well in your gun, however you may pay more for the tubes that will last longer. I typically shot a modified untertaker for duck’in. They are pretty inexpensive, but it works well for me. (sometimes anyway
)
July 18, 2006 at 11:32 am #18667thanks for all the advise guys. I will be mostly hunting ducks, but do get into the early goose and make one trip to Canada for geese. I mainly want to tighten up my pattern to get good clean kills and less criples. I appreciate all the good tips.
July 18, 2006 at 11:32 am #461305thanks for all the advise guys. I will be mostly hunting ducks, but do get into the early goose and make one trip to Canada for geese. I mainly want to tighten up my pattern to get good clean kills and less criples. I appreciate all the good tips.
drakesdemise
Residing in St. Paul, MN doing weekly travel throughout the five state Upper MidwestPosts: 976July 18, 2006 at 1:43 pm #18673“Good clean kills” may be a whole different discussion
Tubes cetainly help, but think about the shot that you are using as well!
cheers
drakesdemise
Residing in St. Paul, MN doing weekly travel throughout the five state Upper MidwestPosts: 976July 18, 2006 at 1:43 pm #461337“Good clean kills” may be a whole different discussion
Tubes cetainly help, but think about the shot that you are using as well!
cheers
July 18, 2006 at 5:11 pm #18680Good Clean Kills….
Chokes and shot selection are important. I think it is also important to practice patience in the blind. Take the shots that are well within your comfort range. I’ve seen guys wreak havoc on ducks with 20 gauges because they were patient, good shots, and knew how to get them in close when everyone else were struggling.
Have fun and good luck.
July 18, 2006 at 5:11 pm #461402Good Clean Kills….
Chokes and shot selection are important. I think it is also important to practice patience in the blind. Take the shots that are well within your comfort range. I’ve seen guys wreak havoc on ducks with 20 gauges because they were patient, good shots, and knew how to get them in close when everyone else were struggling.
Have fun and good luck.
July 18, 2006 at 10:42 pm #18699DITO MALITIA!!! Nothing is more important to rid of those crippled birds. I’ve tried the patternmaster on ducks and it just baffled me. A PM choke with my benelli M1-90 and Fasteel #4 shot I thought would put a serious hurting on decoying ducks, but what I found was an extra tight pattern, clean misses and greenheads with no heads when I connected. I then tried that exact same thing on spring snows and I found the deadliest load out there in my opinion, even at ranges of 60+ yards. Ducks fall regualrily to my Benelli and the factory I.C. choke with #4 shot. But then again it’s all in how you want to shoot ’em.
LARS
July 18, 2006 at 10:42 pm #461498DITO MALITIA!!! Nothing is more important to rid of those crippled birds. I’ve tried the patternmaster on ducks and it just baffled me. A PM choke with my benelli M1-90 and Fasteel #4 shot I thought would put a serious hurting on decoying ducks, but what I found was an extra tight pattern, clean misses and greenheads with no heads when I connected. I then tried that exact same thing on spring snows and I found the deadliest load out there in my opinion, even at ranges of 60+ yards. Ducks fall regualrily to my Benelli and the factory I.C. choke with #4 shot. But then again it’s all in how you want to shoot ’em.
LARS
July 19, 2006 at 8:21 pm #18734IMO, patternmaster is too tight for ducks over dekes, but people I know that use them say they are money on geese. I like a nice light modified like a Briley or a Trulock or something similar that seems to throw even patterns at duck ranges (that we SHOULD be shooting at). Now if someone could just tell those woodies to slow down on opening day all would be good!
July 19, 2006 at 8:21 pm #461817IMO, patternmaster is too tight for ducks over dekes, but people I know that use them say they are money on geese. I like a nice light modified like a Briley or a Trulock or something similar that seems to throw even patterns at duck ranges (that we SHOULD be shooting at). Now if someone could just tell those woodies to slow down on opening day all would be good!
July 19, 2006 at 8:45 pm #18735I agree that the Patternmaster is too tight for ducks over dekes.
But I’d rather miss them clean than cripple and not find them.
What are you guys using for steel shot?
And what choke?
We rarely shoot over 35 yards with steel.
July 19, 2006 at 8:45 pm #461824I agree that the Patternmaster is too tight for ducks over dekes.
But I’d rather miss them clean than cripple and not find them.
What are you guys using for steel shot?
And what choke?
We rarely shoot over 35 yards with steel.
July 20, 2006 at 12:33 pm #18752Ducks over deeks use a mod with 4 highvis 1500-1550. Knocks them dead. I am a firm believer, speed kills!!!
July 20, 2006 at 12:33 pm #461975Ducks over deeks use a mod with 4 highvis 1500-1550. Knocks them dead. I am a firm believer, speed kills!!!
July 21, 2006 at 3:24 pm #18797Early ducks over dekes – 4 shot Fast Steel, mod or I/C
As ducks get wiser – 2 shot Fast Steel, mod or I/C
I usually keep some BB in the bag just in case the sky carp are flying.
Winchester SuperX2 with 24″ barrel, true glo sites.I usually vary to chokes depending on the wind and weather.
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