John boat Salvage

I am in the process of salvaging a
10ft john boat that was pulled from the CatTails about three years ago. It’s in pretty rough shape. But I think it’s worth taking a shot at repairing. There are a couple of small holes that I have figured out a patch. I am going to drill out and replace all of the rivets. But I need some advice on the transome.

I have cut and prepaired new wood. But because of the age, the alluminum has begun to warp. I believe that when pulled tight it should seal up fairly well. I am looking for a glue, silicone or other compound that anyone has used to make sure it is sealed. I would like Ideas on somthing that can be applied between the wood and the matel to seal ond or adhere the two materials.

Thanks in advance.

Gorilla glue

Gorilla glue

The best adhesive i’ve seen is pl 400. Ive seen it used in quite a few diffrent things and it bonds tight and holds strong. Its not necessarily a caulking compound as it is an adhesive and a good one at that. If your pulling the metal of the transome straight to remove the warps i’d cut the wood for the transome and then put it in place where it will be permanently mounted. I’d drill 5/16th or 3/8th holes through the metal of the transome and through the wood. I’d drill a row along the top about 3″ down then another row about 3/4 the way down and not drill any close to the bottom weld. If you put the oval head bolts in through the transome from the outside in, the nuts will be on the inside on the wood. I don’t think it will leak much with ovalhead bolts because they will cinch tight against the metal of the outer skin. To make sure take a little pl 400 or a good silicon and put it under the head of the bolt and then tighten it. Wipe off any excess silicon from the outside and the inside after tightening it up. I’d cut the plywood as close to the side and bottom skin of the boat as i could. Are the welds good all along the sides and the bottom in the corners where it meets the transome? I wouldn’t go overboard with alot of bolts to hold the wood to the transome, A row near the top then about 3/4 the way down spacing them about a foot apart should be good enough. I’d use a large washer and a lock washer on each bolt too.

The best adhesive i’ve seen is pl 400. Ive seen it used in quite a few diffrent things and it bonds tight and holds strong. Its not necessarily a caulking compound as it is an adhesive and a good one at that. If your pulling the metal of the transome straight to remove the warps i’d cut the wood for the transome and then put it in place where it will be permanently mounted. I’d drill 5/16th or 3/8th holes through the metal of the transome and through the wood. I’d drill a row along the top about 3″ down then another row about 3/4 the way down and not drill any close to the bottom weld. If you put the oval head bolts in through the transome from the outside in, the nuts will be on the inside on the wood. I don’t think it will leak much with ovalhead bolts because they will cinch tight against the metal of the outer skin. To make sure take a little pl 400 or a good silicon and put it under the head of the bolt and then tighten it. Wipe off any excess silicon from the outside and the inside after tightening it up. I’d cut the plywood as close to the side and bottom skin of the boat as i could. Are the welds good all along the sides and the bottom in the corners where it meets the transome? I wouldn’t go overboard with alot of bolts to hold the wood to the transome, A row near the top then about 3/4 the way down spacing them about a foot apart should be good enough. I’d use a large washer and a lock washer on each bolt too.

3M 5200 Marine adhesive/sealant is the right tool for the job.

3M 5200 Marine adhesive/sealant is the right tool for the job.

3M 5200 is for repairs below the waterline. It is mighty pricey stuff to glue plywood into the inside of the stern with. If the Aluminum if full of holes, then maybe. Otherwise, your just trying to glue wood to Alum. Use 5200 or silicone around the bolts as stated above. 5200 is awsome for patching small holes or best when used around thru hull fittings like for livewells and blige pumps.

3M 5200 is for repairs below the waterline. It is mighty pricey stuff to glue plywood into the inside of the stern with. If the Aluminum if full of holes, then maybe. Otherwise, your just trying to glue wood to Alum. Use 5200 or silicone around the bolts as stated above. 5200 is awsome for patching small holes or best when used around thru hull fittings like for livewells and blige pumps.

Thanks guys. Luckely there are no holes in the transome other that the holes drilled to mount the wood. The holes are in the hull. I have access to an Aluminum welder so those SHOULD be no problem.

As always this is a great resource. There is nothing more valuable than experience!

Thanks guys. Luckely there are no holes in the transome other that the holes drilled to mount the wood. The holes are in the hull. I have access to an Aluminum welder so those SHOULD be no problem.

As always this is a great resource. There is nothing more valuable than experience!

I have found a polyurethane based caulk sold at Menards or Home Depot its by Tremco its called Vulkem and it is assome stuff. You put in a caulk gun and its only about $ 4.00 a tube. Only possible draw back it takes about 2 days of temps 50 or above to cure but it is by far the best caulk I have ever used

I have found a polyurethane based caulk sold at Menards or Home Depot its by Tremco its called Vulkem and it is assome stuff. You put in a caulk gun and its only about $ 4.00 a tube. Only possible draw back it takes about 2 days of temps 50 or above to cure but it is by far the best caulk I have ever used

Thanyou. The temp is no problem. I can move the boat into the basement. That should urine off the boss!

Thanyou. The temp is no problem. I can move the boat into the basement. That should urine off the boss!