What pound test mono

For the gurus who are masters at pitching jigs at rip-rap, what pound mono do you use???

I know this was discussed a few weeks ago, however I couldn’t find it.

My objective is to pitch plastics at the rip-rap, and from what I understand, you prefer mono vs. superlines, so you can control your sink rate.

Say, with little current, pitching a 1/8 ounce Knuckle ball, with a 4″ ring worm. Are we looking at 8lb, hi-vis? or is 10lb better for the sink rate???

Or, should a guy stick with the 6lb, or 8lb and go lighter on the jig head???

I’m no “guru” or “master”, but I have had success pitchin and I almost always use 6lb test. Berkley “sensation” seems to be your best bet as far as bright visable colors. I do use 8lb test on occasion. You do get a slower drop, but I like to use it when they’re really biting good anyway…..cuz you can straighten out your hooks a little easier when you get snagged than with the 6lb. I think you will hear similar comments. 6lb test is the “goto” size for pitchin for most people.

I think you will hear numerous replies for both 6 and 8 lb test. One of the biggest keys, and I learned this the hard way, get hi vis. You can often see a bite when you might not feel it. I don’t have any preference to a certain line.

Thanks Steve!!!

You too Waterfowler!!!

Steve’s right, he’s no “guru” or “master” but he does have a good idea on what line to use. I used the XT Solar for quite some time in the 6lb test until they disontinued it . Now I go with the Sensation solar color in the 8lb test, it is the same diameter as standard 6lb mono and I get more jigs back because of it. Thise line has been good to me, only down fall for me is it doesn’t seem to be as abrasion resistant as the XT was. But it’s the best line I have found to replace the XT Solar that I liked so much.

May I ask another question………

What is your ideal jig weight?

From what I’m trying to understand on this presentation, is that you want the jig to slowly fall and slightly drift with the current.

Therefore, the decent rate needs to be fast enough to create vibration from the tail, yet slow enough and light enough for the fish to zero in on it and inhail it, correct?

Too heavy of a jig and it falls in the rocks or the fish can’t suck it in deep enough, and too light, you get no action????

Am I reading this right?

Do you let the jig free fall, or do you “pop” it at all???

I’m no expert on jig weight but I did some experimenting Sat. and I found for that day 3/32 seemed to be the weight. My son stuck with that weight and caught fish as I tried 1/16 then 1/8 and came up empty. When I switched to 3/32 I started catching fish again. I am not sure exactly why but it must be the speed it sank. The 1/8 got caught on the bottom alot but I thought the 1/16 duplicated the 3/32 pretty well but the walleye didn’t seem to think so. This was early in the morning before the wind came up. I think jig weight is part of the ever changing equation to catch walleyes. Just my humble opinion.

Gary,

Jig weight is very important. Different sizes give you a slower or faster drop speed, as I am sure you are well aware of. My go to in jig weight day in and day out is a 1/8oz, if I am not getting bit, I’ll switch it up a few sizes and go down to a 3/32 or up to 3/16oz. On days when you have a light wind to deal with, that 3/16oz has saved my keister many a times when a 1/4oz jig was to heavy and the 1/8 was to light to keep control of the presentation. This time of year with the really low flows the 1/8oz size will work on just about any shoreline I cast to for those walleyes. Like Redneck said, on most days jig weight makes a big difference in your catch rate, it does pay to play around a bit

I usually let my jig just free fall, no fancy twitch or snap for me on most occasions. What works for me most often this time of year is just a slow forward pull of the rod tip and let the bait fall back down slowly on a tight line. On the fall you’ll feel the“bone shattering strike”, fish on!

I always use 6LB. Trilene XL for my shallow water (under 12-14FT.) jigging.

Gator Hunter

I use the same, trilene xl and i’ve Had it on my reels for 20 years or more now. I use 4 pound to feel the jig better and be prepared to back reel. The rule of thumb that works down here is start small 1/8th then go bigger in 1/32th incremennts if those jig sizes can be found. What i do is use a 2″ to 2 1’2″ tail and tip it with the biggest minnow i can find to slow the fall. I like 4 pound because i can feel and make contact with the bottom all the way in to make shure im fishing the right depth plus i can make longer casts. Theres not alot of deep water here so this is why its hard to fish riprap shorelines. I fish any breakline i can find or change in contour on the bottom. When im letting the jig fall i keep as tight a line as possible to feel a suttle strike. Then when raising the rod tip to pull the jig along the bottom just over the rocks, i try to make contact with the bottom all the time. When i reel in its when the jigs far enough off the bottom then on the fall of the jig reel fast enough to keep the jig from getting hung up always trying to be ready for a strike. With a minnow i can control the fall better and thats where i get my strikes and it gives me time to reel line. When the bite slows a slow retrieve is best for me trying to drop it in its mouth or on its nose never trying to jig more then a foot off the bottom all the way in. An old walleye fisherman told me one time if your not loosing jigs your not fishing right, i found out for me thats true. This is the way i fish the rivers around here>

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An old walleye fisherman told me one time if your not loosing jigs your not fishing right, i found out for me thats true. This is the way i fish the rivers around here>

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Mossydan
My dad was always saying that to me when I was growing up. I guess I didn’t have a lot of patience back then.
You know, it is still as true today as it was then.

Gator Hunter

I know it is Gator, and i get 99 put of 100 hits on the fall. A slow fall when it gets colder and right on the bottom.