pitching blades

I have vertical jigged blade baits in the river over 20 FOW. I have let it sink to the bottom and then jerked it up 2-3 feet and let it drop and repeat. Are there other ways to effectively use this bait? What does “pitching blades” blades mean? Is it as simple as casting that bait and reeling it in? What situations would be right for “pitching blades”? Shallow water…deep water… Is there a time of year that this is more productive? And I see these blade baits have 3 different holes for tying the line on. Is there some logic as to which hole to use? Are there certain colors that are more effective on Pool 4?

Pitchin blades refers to casting them to shallow water structure. When pitching and vertical less is often more when fishing them. The pictures you have are of reef runners(I think that’s their name) they work but are much more aggressive of a wobble than what most guys use. B-Fish-N makes some great ones get all colors and let the fish tell you what they want on any given day. Now on to setups and how I fish them…
My ideal setup(which I use) is an 8ft3in rod from Limit Creek with a quality reel I use a pfleuger arbor, and 10lb 832 suffix. Pitching 1/4 oz or lighter blade most of the time. I’ve always used the center hole not really sure what the difference would make but it always has worked for me so I don’t bother switching. Blades seem to be the most productive when the water temps drop below 50 degrees. As far as situations, I’ll fish them anywhere that I’ll fish plastics most of the time I’ll fish both at a spot before I leave.

When pitching slow is key, they’re fished much the same way as plastics as far as speed goes…when you thought its sat long enough let it sit a little more. the only real difference I’ve found to it is instead of the slow lift on plastics its a sharp and small pop of the rod, this is where I like the extra length of the rod. My goal is to move it the least distance possible through the water with it vibrating, then let it sit. If you feel anything when you life it again set the hook. Biggest thing to remember when fishing blades or anything for that matter is experiment with the retrieve and let the fish tell you.

I’m by no means an expert on blades but this is what has worked in my experience.

I should have looked closer at the picture those are sonars… Very close to B-fish-N tackle stuff, even though I still have more confidence in they’re stuff… If you’re looking for a good spot to find all the blades in one place either everts or deans tackle box will set you up right.

Try the new thinfisher blades from Johnson, I’ve been doing really good pitching them in the rift rapt area’s! Both sizes have been producing for us. Just a little snap then let flutter back down. Repeat all the way back to the boat.
Hope this helps,

Jr did a very good job in his explantion. A couple factors to keep in mind. Flow….in general at Pool 4 is approx 50% of the flow from Genoa & our souther neighboring pools. Hence, we can typically fish a lighter weight blade, ie 1/8 & 1/4. Slowing the fall in shallow lower flow water is very key.I cant remember how many yrs since I have used a blade heavier than 1/4 oz.
I opt for smaller diameter hardline, 6# in winter or freezing conditions,and8 # max in higher flow non freezing conditions. This is one presentation that the rod action is very important.The #1 biggest mistake in pitching blades is overfishing them. The wrong action rod causes alot of anglers too overwork the blade because they dont feel the vibration on the lift. Most of the bites come on the fall,so fishing the blade down is key. My undisputateable favorite action is Croix’s 6’9 or 6’10’MLXF. There certainly are others that will work,Ijust havent had it in my hands yet.

Good luck & have fun learning one of my most favorite big fish presentations from Sept to early June!

I’m finding 3/8oz is my favoriye for pools 6, through 9. 1/4 is great, but some of the structure I key on needs that little bit extra weight, and pending the fish’s mood, the larger 1/2oz isn’t always the best choice.
When I find clam beds, I like pitching the deeper water surrounding the bed and work up the sides. Sometimes working up the current, and I never pass up diagonal lines across the current. I avoid the hard “snap” up that looks like your reefing a bass out of a log jam. Just enough lift to feel a good vibration, and enough to lift it to the top of the “zone”. Follow it back. Don’t drop your tip and leave slack. More than half of my fish come on the fall when its fluttering down. In neatural or negative moods, you may only realize that it feels like it prematurely rested in the bottom.
The first screen capture is a school of eyes that just moved on top of a hump. Its off the screen, but to the right is a steep rise up to a rock bar. There is a snag in this hole and the fish move rom the shallow rock bar on top, down through a snag, and up onto this little hump.

The last screen shot has a distorted side scan because i was tuerning the boat. What I like though in the down imaging showns the disruption in water flow. This is along a steep drop that consistantly holds fish in the bottom eddy.

Awesome drawing Randy!

Get’s the point across! LOL!

Something I forgot to mention that has worked for me. I avoid letting it lay on the bottom. When I make contact with the bottom, I crank down and get a memory point of the top of my rod in relationship to the water. That way i know by where my rod tip is, I know exactly where my blade is in relationship to the bottom. Once in awhile I drop down and contact bottom just to make sure of where I’m at. A lot of hits come when it is just inches off the bottom during a pause.

Brian, THANKS! coming from a man with your characteristics, I see that as a huge compliment!

This is what makes this site so great. Fishermen teaching and helping other fishermen!!! Love it! Keep up the good work!

I didn’t see anyone say to NOT tie the blade directly to your line….use a small crosslock snap both for action and saving your line from being cut!

Quote:

---

This is what makes this site so great. Fishermen teaching and helping other fishermen!!! Love it! Keep up the good work!

---

X2
Great info Randy!

Quote:

---

And I see these blade baits have 3 different holes for tying the line on. Is there some logic as to which hole to use?

---

The three line-tie holes allow adjustment of the lure’s running depth and action. The front hole is for shallow running and high vibration. The rear hole produces deep running and a wide, slower, wobbling action. The center hole is perfect for jigging, a technique especially effective for ice fishing.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

This is what makes this site so great. Fishermen teaching and helping other fishermen!!! Love it! Keep up the good work!

---

X2
Great info Randy!

---

Thanks for the compliment, but there are a ton of guys on here that all do the same. At times we all have different levels of availability to jump in and share. Lately I wish I was working more, and had less time to be here but then what fun would that be
It’s what draws me so close to this site Vs the hundreds of others that are out there. Guys that share information – receive information. It’s one thing to learn one technique that works on one body of water at one time of the year…and another to take in all you can than can be used anywhere; at any time. You would be surprised how much of the walleye – Mississippi river info works on a lot of northern WI inland lakes!
Good luck guys!

Good stuff guys. Thanks!