3-ways with tandem stick baits?

  • smokinbobo
    Monticello / Guthrie, MN
    Posts: 382
    #1333527

    I plan to try this technique this weekend and have a few questions:

    Larger bait in front or back and why?

    How long a dropper / lead from the 3-way swivel to the weight and 1st bait and how long a lead between baits?

    Hook removed from the back end of the 1st bait or not?

    Recommended bait size / color?

    Do you ever mix bait patterns, i.e. something bright on the first bait to catch the attention of the fish and something more natural on the 2nd bait?

    Gary Sanders
    Lake Wisconsin
    Posts: 434
    #1050880

    I run the larger bait in back for example a #7 floating Rapala in front and #11 floating Rapala in back. This could simulate a fish chasing a smaller fish. Because the front bait is tied on both ends, it produces only a very subtle motion in the water while the back one swims normally. Interestingly enough, it is the smaller front bait that gets hit the majority of the time so definitely don’t remove the hooks from it. I usually use two different colors but experimenting is advisable depending on the day and the conditions. I usually have a 18″ to 36″ lead between the the 3-way to the first bait and a 12″ to 18″ to the second bait – there is no hard and fast rule, just don’t make it too long unless your in very clear water. As far as the dropper lead length, from 8″ to 10″ is usually what I run to a pencil sinker with lighter lb test than the bait leads so if you snag the sinker it should break off without losing the whole rig. Bottom bouncers will also work with this application. Additionally I would recommend using a bait casting rod with a flippin’ switch on it so that you can release line and stop it with the push of a button.

    Tying the buggers is time consuming because there are a lot of knots in the rig (7 total). Dean’s Tackle Box sells pre-tied double-rap 3-way rigs here: http://www.deanstacklebox.com/rigs.html

    riverdan
    Posts: 295
    #1050927

    I run them all the time as a matter of fact we were running them last sunday, I run a 5 foot leader to a # 7 floating rap and on the rear eyelet I clip on a foot of line to a #5 floating flat rap with a 18 to 24″ dropper, usually run some color on both, bleeding charteuse worked great sunday! I like the larger bait in front smaller in back, the front bait loses its wabble for the most part and the rear has the most action, I leave all hooks on and by running clips on the baits there easy to switch out!

    walinutz
    Cologne, MN
    Posts: 370
    #1050973

    I learned something today. Thanks guys!!!

    rvvrrat
    The Sand Prairie
    Posts: 1842
    #1051149

    Anyone have a picture of a set up? I am trying to imagine what front and back means.

    illiniwalli
    WC Illinois
    Posts: 878
    #1051163

    check this out (with pic).
    i doubt if marty minds me posting this.
    3 way rigs

    rvvrrat
    The Sand Prairie
    Posts: 1842
    #1051253

    Thanks Illini for the link to Marty’s page. The pic didn’t show for me but he described the rig so well it was not needed. He also explained exactly why this rig works for him. Got it, now gotta try it sometime.

    smokinbobo
    Monticello / Guthrie, MN
    Posts: 382
    #1051123

    Thanks all for the replies. Great info as always!!! See you out there!

    John Schultz
    Inactive
    Portage, WI
    Posts: 3309
    #1051494

    Another option for a tandem rig, which worked fairly well for me last week, is to run a fly off the back. I was running a #9 floating rapala with an 18 inch trailer with a fly tied on a #2 aberdeen hook. Best fly color was orange deer hair with a gold flashabou core. It works best if you pump the rod so the fly has some more action, but if it is at all choppy, the rise and fall of the boat will put enough action in the fly that you can put the rod in a holder. You don’t lose any action on the crank when running a trailing fly either.

    rvvrrat
    The Sand Prairie
    Posts: 1842
    #1051665

    Quote:


    You don’t lose any action on the crank when running a trailing fly either.



    Correct me if I wrong, but reading Marty’s explanation the leading crank is most effective because it does not have “action”.

    John Schultz
    Inactive
    Portage, WI
    Posts: 3309
    #1051739

    Quote:


    Quote:


    You don’t lose any action on the crank when running a trailing fly either.



    Correct me if I wrong, but reading Marty’s explanation the leading crank is most effective because it does not have “action”.


    Some days, they want the action in the crank bait. The fish looking for a subtle action will eat the fly. Similar theory, different application.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13708
    #1052117

    Quote:


    Quote:


    Quote:


    You don’t lose any action on the crank when running a trailing fly either.



    Correct me if I wrong, but reading Marty’s explanation the leading crank is most effective because it does not have “action”.


    Some days, they want the action in the crank bait. The fish looking for a subtle action will eat the fly. Similar theory, different application.


    John, can tell your from Omoro! I run a very similar set up on the Fox and Wolf rivers and also tandem flies on a dead stick in the current. I think the flies are very under utilized for the Miss! Its a fast and easy way to get multiple color combinations held consistently in the zone

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