Waiting for explanation

I’m no mechanic but can’t begin to wrap my head around this one. In beginning to rig my new boat I ran across this. In all my years of boat ownership it was always pounded in to my head not to ground to the hull. The dealer responded to my email saying it is the new norm and he would send me some paperwork explaining it. It better be a pretty damn good explanation.

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Would like to know the explanation as well. Old school was never ground the hull of an aluminum boat. Please let us know

The negative side being grounded to the hull is inevitable, just from the outboard bolts going thru the transom. By “bonding” as they have done, they have eliminated the possibility of stray voltage on the DC-side.

You don’t want to use the hull as the negative-side of the circuit, but no matter what you do, you’ll see continuity between the battery negative and the hull, with the OB mounted & connected.

Disconnect the short strap and see for yourself.

HRG

HRG, so what exactly is the short strap doing for me? Am I okay operating without the short strap “bonded”?

The short strap is picking up any stray current and giving it a place to go. Not sure that I am fully on board with it, should be interesting to see their response.

here is what I found.
“”Grounds and Grounding One of the least understood aspects of a boats electrical system, and the most troublesome, is the proper method of grounding. That we often get questions of whether AC or DC electrical equipment should be grounded to the boat’s bonding system is illustrative of this point. AC and DC grounding systems are two separate systems, for distinctly different reasons. If you don’t understand these systems, you run the distinct risk of creating a disaster. Actually, there are four separate ground systems: DC ground, AC ground, AC grounding (or bond), and the vessel’s bonding system. You can add to this lightning and HF radio grounds as well. Do you know the principles of each? Are you sufficiently confused to discourage you from doing your own wiring? I hope so. For unless you understand each thoroughly, you’re headed for trouble.
The AC ground and grounding systems are “free floating,” meaning that they do not ground on the vessel, but only to shore. The ground, or neutral, is a current carrying conductor, and is the source of many troubles because people do not regard it as such. The grounding, bond or green wire is the “safety” intended to channel current safely to ground in the event of a short circuit. Both of these circuits are capable of conducting current and can be the source of electrolysis when there are system faults with the dock or marina wiring. This is very easy to test for.
There is only one point where the DC side is grounded, and that is at the battery. It, too, is a “free floating” system in which nothing is ever grounded to any metallic part of the vessel, most especially not the bonding system. Just like a car sitting on rubber tires, completely insulated from earth potential, the battery itself provides the negative potential.
The bonding system, also green wire, has nothing to do with electrical systems. Underwater metals are simply wired together to equalize differences in potential of different kinds of metal. Nothing should ever be grounded to the bonding system. Unfortunately, some people don’t understand this and use it to ground electrical equipment, occasionally with disastrous results.”

SuperDave1959 wrote:

HRG, so what exactly is the short strap doing for me? Am I okay operating without the short strap “bonded”?

I would call North River and talk to somebody there. They put it there for a reason, let them explain why.

(541) 673-2438

HRG

It is in fact called bonding and not a grounding system for boat electrical devices. I don’t fully understand it but have read enough to see that it is a very hotly debated design principle in boats.

What and how long is the warranty on the hull? They should know best and they put it there. Nice boat, have fun.

I read about this, is this mainly for running in saltwater?

They have that set up correctly for an aluminum boat.
That is referred to as bonding and not grounding. You can easily see the grounding block in the picture that proves they ARE NOT using the “frame” as ground.
This will help fight electrolysis in conjunction with using magnesium ( freshwater) and zink (saltwater) anodes. VERY IMPORTANT IF THE BOAT ATAYS IN THE WATER.
When a boat that sits at a dock plugged into shorepower is not bonded and anodes are not not maintained electrolysis will eat away at the metal parts on your boat. Many fiberglass boats have pitted outdrives from not maintaining anodes and bonding. Its a telltale sign the boat was neglected.