Wife wants new flooring in Kitchen and Bathroom. Anyone put stick down vinyl squares for the flooring? Did it stay down or come up? Would I be better off with a full sheet of Linoleum? Any comments would be appreciated
Click lock vinyl is also an option.
You would be better off with tile.
I initially did vinyl squares in my kitchen and bathroom. I used the thicker squares that allow you to grout between the tiles. I’ve never had any pop up and most people don’t even realize it’s not real tile (the grout makes it looks like real tile). Finally did a complete reno on my kitchen and it was surprisingly difficult to pull the sticky tiles up. Bathroom still has the vinyl and again, no issues with them popping up. Prep is probably a big part of it. Gotta make sure the floor is clean from debri and if I remember right I even painted a sealer on top of the plywood.
I would Prime the floor for sure.
After 25 years in the floor trade I still don’t trust peel and stick. $12 for a trowel and look at the lvp-luxury vinyl plank and lvt-luxury vinyl tile.durable,repairable, tons of styles. Doesn’t sound hollow when walked on. Great stuff!
What is down on the floor right now?
We install quite a bit of Mannington Adura LVT/LVP and it’s fully adhered. LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile) LVP (Luxury Vinyl Plank)
They say you can rub a quarter on it and the quarter will wear out before the tile.
You can cut it with a box cutter which makes for easy install.
As with all flooring, make sure you have a good substrate to install on. You can also install this product over other floorings, just read the directions.
In bathrooms (wet areas) we use LVT and then grout, the grout is specific to LVT. In other rooms LVP.
We also have started to install more WPC (water proof core) laminate flooring (click together). We use CoreTec, which has a luxury vinyl wear course. I like it and it seem to perform well.
I have rehabs some houses, and manage a few rentals.
STAY AWAY from anything with adhesive, if it gets wet often it starts to pull apart. also, if the sub floor gives at all it starts to pull
I have found the vinyl planks that click together offer a very nice, very durable solution.
We just rehabbed a house that we plan to live in for a very long time, and I put that stuff down for the entire home.
Candofish, there are alot of options out there. Solid hardwood is my bread and butter but have done most everything else as well. There are certain price points that customers have and need to be achieved. If we all could afford $5, $7, $15SF flooring it would be alot easier choosing flooring products.
Send me a pm if you want to chat about it when I can find some time, I also can order products wholesale which if you drive down to the mpls area might help out. Like to think of it not as saving money, but getting more for your money.
Good luck. Lots of options out there which does make it difficult.
Whateverbites –
That’s why you should use a grouted product in wet areas.
Did luxury vinyl in my house in my man cave room with a wet bar…went this route bc it’s waterproof…i had the glue down stuff put in and I absolutely love it…and get lots of compliments on it as well…when I get around to my bathroom I think I will go with the vinyl plank in a stone look as well
20171230_115424.jpg
I’ve done quite a few floors as well from high-end hardwoods and engineered hardwoods, to mid grade laminates, down to cheap adhesive stuff.
I’d never use any type of adhesive flooring. There’s a decent amount of prep work involved (that’s often skipped) and there’s a definite reason it’s cheap.
I’ve installed a few different types of the vinyl plank flooring. Quality stuff is super easy to cut and install. Be sure to try a few pieces out before you commit to it. As a general rule of thumb – the thicker you go the higher the cost, but better fit and feel to walk on. I’d caution using it on any concrete basement flooring due to the feel. Don’t forget to leave an expansion gap as you go (1/8” from wall or so) as floating floors flex quite a bit. Stagger your seams for a nice random pattern. Be patient as the first 2-3 rows will be the most time consuming keeping things aligned properly. I also wouldn’t try to do huge spans of 30+ feet without expansion gaps of some sort.
Badger-
I will disagree with the thicker you go statement. Some vinyl plank commercial grade is less thick than the residential. It’s all in the thickness of the wear layer.
The WPC laminate does not need any room for expansion nor does it require acclimation.
AND –
Manufactures write their installation guidelines specifications so restrictive that it is impossible to comply to as far as your sub-straight requirements.
Badger-
I will disagree with the thicker you go statement. Some vinyl plank commercial grade is less thick than the residential. It’s all in the thickness of the wear layer.
The WPC laminate does not need any room for expansion nor does it require acclimation.
AND –
Manufactures write their installation guidelines specifications so restrictive that it is impossible to comply to as far as your sub-straight requirements.
We will skip the adhesive stuff and go with a top quality product. Don’t know if it will be laminate, hardwood, or vinyl. I know the differences in the quality of vinyl, but which is better laminate or hardwood as far as wear and durability? Price is not so much as a problem as this will probably be our last upgrade. We are also replacing all our kitchen cabinets, laundry room cabinets, and bathroom cabinets as well as all 3 floors. New countertops as well. All the cabinets will be tore up and then the new flooring will go down.
Eelpout is spot on.
Well, you can get all the floors you mention real cheap or real spendy.
All solid surface floors can scratch.
Do you have dogs? then I would rule out wood it will scratch easier than most floors.
The hot floor product is WPC (generic name) or CoerTec (a brand name).
It is a laminate with a luxury vinyl wear layer.
BTW – did you look at Brady’s floor? It looks awesome.
I would suggest you go to a quality flooring supplier and ask to look at WPC. It’s what you will install 
Badger-
I will disagree with the thicker you go statement. Some vinyl plank commercial grade is less thick than the residential. It’s all in the thickness of the wear layer.
The WPC laminate does not need any room for expansion nor does it require acclimation.AND –
Manufactures write their installation guidelines specifications so restrictive that it is impossible to comply to as far as your sub-straight requirements.
Why wouldn’t you acclimate it? I’m guessing it’s an opinion or “more than one way to skin a cat” type deal but I’d still leave that expansion gap and acclimate the flooring. At least some people who have installed WPC agree
Why wouldn’t you acclimate it?
Many new materials are not hygroscopic. Therefore there is no need.
It’s not opinion, but if it makes you feel good about it 
The patented construction of COREtec Plus is extremely stable and will not expand or contract under normal conditions. No need for expansion strips in large rooms. No acclimation is required prior to installation, so buy it today and start living on it tonight!
COREtec Original Consumer Brochure – USFloors
http://www.usfloorsllc.com/wp-content/uploads/…/COREtec-Original-Consumer-Brochure.pdf
http://www.goodfellowinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/WPC_Installation_Guide_2016E.pdf
https://www.eternityflooring.com/sites/default/files/WPC%20Installation%20Guide.pdf
http://midamericatile.com/site/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/WPC-Warranty-Installation-Info.pdf
…to each their own
Just be sure to follow manufacturer guidelines carefully. If it’s my flooring, I’d leave the expansion gap as each of the above sources state AND I’d acclimate it for peace of mind as they also state.
We will skip the adhesive stuff and go with a top quality product. Don’t know if it will be laminate, hardwood, or vinyl. I know the differences in the quality of vinyl, but which is better laminate or hardwood as far as wear and durability? Price is not so much as a problem as this will probably be our last upgrade. We are also replacing all our kitchen cabinets, laundry room cabinets, and bathroom cabinets as well as all 3 floors. New countertops as well. All the cabinets will be tore up and then the new flooring will go down.
I did a hardwood in my dining room 20+ years ago when we built. The room is between the kitchen and the living room and bedroom so there is a lot of traffic over it. I had nhamm out to look at it this spring, I thought I might have him sand and refinish it. He said it really didn’t need it. So ya, I would say they wear and hold up well. 
CoreTec is king.
Accolade Oak
VV025-00011
This Collection represents the latest innovation in WPC flooring as a superior alternative to glue-down LVP, locking LVP and Laminate flooring. The DESIGN™ collection employs Embossing technology in Multi-Tone and Multi-Width Planks as well as Multi-Tone and Multi-Width Tiles. The Patented construction features an innovative extruded core made from recycled wood and bamboo dust, limestone and virgin PVC. This Luxury Vinyl is 100% waterproof, can be installed in wet areas and will never swell when exposed to water. The product does not require acclimation and can be floated over most any existing floor surface or substrate without telegraphing that you see from other locking or glue-down LVP products. COREtec Plus Design is GREENGUARD GOLD Certified for Indoor Air Quality to help keep your home healthy and happy.
GREENGUARD_Logo
Plank Dimensions: 5″ x 36″ x 8 mm, 7″ x 72″ x 8 mm, 9″ x 72″ x 8 mm
Sq. Ft./Carton: 20.971
Construction: Engineered Vinyl Plank
Edge Profile: Micro-Beveled Edges & Ends
Core: COREtec extruded core
Attached Underlayment: Cork
Installation Method: Glueless Installation
Installation Level: Below, On, or Above Grade Level
Residential Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Structure Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Waterproof Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Petproof Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Commercial Warranty: 10 Year Limited Medium Commercial
CARB Compliant
GREENGUARD GOLD Certified
If I have read correctly kitchen cabinets should not be installed on top of wpc flooring, but put the cabinets in and leave a 1/4 inch gap between the flooring and cabinet?
My vote is for locking luxury vinyl planks. Get the thickest you can find (7mm?) And get the one with that has the most rubbery/viny feel to it.
The ‘wood’ feel ones sound and feel terrible when you walk on them!
If I have read correctly kitchen cabinets should not be installed on top of wpc flooring, but put the cabinets in and leave a 1/4 inch gap between the flooring and cabinet?
Yes, do not install cabinets on top of WPC or any other floating floor.
Funny – ask a manufacture rep about a fridge or a piano and watch their facial expression.
There are some great showrooms down in the cities here cando which Eelpout, myself or others I’m sure could direct you to.
Since your wife wants new flooring, I highly recommend checking out these products in galleries with her and I guarantee half will be crossed off the list due to just look. Most folks have certain preferences and instead of all us arguing which fits you go see for yourself then ask the ?’s when products are narrowed down.
Thanks nhamm. We will make a road trip to the cities and check them out. Any suggestions would be appreciated. She has it narrowed down to vinyl or linoleum You can pm me or call 715 541 2359
Ah, that was you earlier, sorry the amount of solicitors and recorded messages nowadays is driving me bonkers.
In the old house we did grouted squares like you said in bathroom and kitchen over vinyl and I loved the feel on the feet and how forgiving it was if something fell out of the fridge or for water spills. After 8 years it still looked great. (Had it installed from carpet king I think). We moved awhile back and the beer fridge had tile in front of it. In 2 years we have broken a few jars and bottles that seemed like they would explode from even minor falls and it felt terrible on the feet. I finally got fed up with it and tore it out. And went luxury vinyl. Looks better than squares, but still think the big squares felt better on my feet with less edges.
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