Vinyl floor

I recently purchased a boat that has some soft spots in the rear of the floor. I decided I’m going to go with vinyl for the replacement. What brands would you guys recommend?

have you checked out a tuff coat floor. Pretty nice and you can paint up all sides of the floor to help it last.

Keep in mind that most vinyl floors won’t breath or permeate. If you get moisture trapped between the new wood and the vinyl, you’ll rot it out very quickly

Aaron any idea how long that stuff will last?? That would definitely be the easiest

lund boat got this year has the vinyl floor in the cockpit area. works great so far. would check what kind they’re putting in the boats on the floor.

Not sure how long it will last a buddy put it on his deck last year and has held up good there. You can always recoat or touch paint up if needed. My next floor will be painted for that reason.

My new Lund I bought this past summer has the vinyl interior and it’s life-time guaranteed to the original owner..me. You might call a dealer and find out what kind of material they use. If it were me, I’d use the composite sheeting and wrap it in the vinyl you like, no more rot problems.

DON G nailed it!!

I’m thinking of starting this project soon…Just curious as to what I’m in for…Do you have to take out the consoles,live well, and all that to replace the floor? Also would you guys recommend using rivets or screws to secure the deck down? I plan on wrapping the pieces in vinyl, then securing the floor down.

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did24, I’m an old retired carpenter and always looking at things that are either in dismay or some day will be and what it would take to repair things and make the 2nd time better then the first. I really checked out my Lund looking to see that if some day I needed to do that what it would take. After putting 2 floors in my large boat (original owner) covered with carpet I vowed never to own another carpeted boat.. thus vinyl. My Lund would need to be completely disassembled to get to the floor and get it out, I mean everything needs to go to get to the floor. There are composite sheeting materials out that would make the floor indestructible. Were I ever to do it again, that;s what I’d use on the floor and transom. The rest can be ply because it really doesn’t get the soakings the floors do.

I would secure everything back in with rivets like the factory did, vibration would constantly loosen the screws. Also the rivets have a larger button head that covers over the hole and helps secure the covering. While your doing it you can also strategically place some removable panels to get to the pumps and access for other things.It’s really not bad, you have patterns for everything to start with so the hard figuring and fitting is a bit easier.

The best source I have found for boat modification and reconstruction is on

http://forum.tinboats.net/

there are lots of discussions out there on flooring materials and covers. The general consensus is plywood or aluminum screwed down for cost and weight. Changing the floor thickness may alter the fit of other installed components.

My new Lund floor is going to be 5/8″ marine plywood, sealed on all sides with a concoction of mineral spirits, linseed oil and spar varnish (know as “old timers formula”).
I am then going to wrap the top side of the floor with carpet held down with petroleum based outdoor carpet adhesive.

The original floor in the boat was screwed down by Lund (1981), was 5/8″ un- sealed exterior grade plywood, and had carpet glued and wrapped around the edges.

The original floor had holes in it but had been in the boat for 35 years.

I expect my replacement floor to out last me.

Check with your friendly Lund dealer, but if your boat is newer than 1995, I believe you can order exact replacement floor boards cut to match your boat for just a little more than materials. Aren’t NC machines great.

See my “Looking for restoration help, painter” posting for current status of my boat.

Good Luck