New to me bunk trailer. Had rollers my whole life.
It loads very nicely but unloading so far doesn’t want to come off the bunks very easy. This is a nice steep ramp and I am backing down so far almost getting my feet wet. It looks like it lifts in the water and then I try to motor off. The rear end lifts but it won’t come free.
Should I try some silicone spray?
Can you back down further? I unload close to the dock because I’d have to wade if I didn’t get in my boat from the dock.
100% Drive it off, I do not want it to come off without power.
If I have to unload without driving it off, I attach a rope to my hitch and the bow eye and back in until it floats off, sometimes it helps to stop suddenly.
Can you back down further?
I back in until I see the boat floating. Is the boat not actually floating when you back in far enough Lindy? Once you unhook the front, it really should just float off the trailer without having to actually back up with the outboard. At least mine does.
Can you back down further? I unload close to the dock because I’d have to wade if I didn’t get in my boat from the dock.
Same. Tight to dock.
Try practicing with someone in the boat. I back down unhook then back in a bit further and it slides right off. This is with another person obviously but it will give you an idea of when it starts to float off. Then keep an eye on fender depth so you know next time.
You will figure it out. Like others have said probably not going deep enough.
Yeah I could go further and it will float off. But I launch and load 90% of the time myself so I’d like to find a sweet spot that I can get it free and then motor off
I have used silicone spray for many years and it makes a big difference. I like to spray it on when the bunks are dry but if it is a day trip I have sprayed it on right after launching and let it dry while fishing.
Yeah I could go further and it will float off. But I launch and load 90% of the time myself so I’d like to find a sweet spot that I can get it free and then motor off
I am by myself around the same amount. Back in a little further and close enough to the dock so you can walk on and drive off. Then remember the depth of the water on your trailer so you can duplicate it every time. You’ll figure it out after a handful of times doing it and I promise you once you get it, you will be very happy you have bunks.
Yeah I know I will get it dialed in. But just trying to speed it up.
Not all landings have docks though? I guess most do. Sometimes a dock isn’t available.
I might try the spray on the front (bow) half anyway
How long is the boat? Mine is a 17.5 so that probably makes it a little easier to get off the trailer.
Yeah I could go further and it will float off. But I launch and load 90% of the time myself so I’d like to find a sweet spot that I can get it free and then motor off
I do as well. Just don’t unhook before you back in. If there is no dock I wear rubber boots or climb my tire to my box or bumper. You will get used to it. I also transitioned from a roller to a bunk last season
It’s 18.5 ft pretty heavy boat. But my buddy has a 21ft and he backs his off. Guessing each boat/trailer combo is slightly different.
I do as well. Just don’t unhook before you back in. If there is no dock I wear rubber boots or climb my tire to my box or bumper. You will get used to it. I also transitioned from a roller to a bunk last season
If I don’t unhook it will create a pinch point at the bow and hit the trolling motor. I think I need to either try the spray or unhook the winch strap partially so it will float free but not float away. Maybe give it a couple feet of slack. Anyway I will get it figured out but thanks for all the ideas.
General rule of thumb for any trailer I have owned or backed in was to go in until the waterline is just above the fenders. I then get in the water, tie a launch line, push and toss line on the dock. tie off boat and go park. If it is super busy I even push my boat over so others can launch while I park. I am in and out solo as fast you can get.
You will find the sweet spot eventually. I am pretty sure I will never own a roller trailer again.
Tie a line to the boat and just back into water till boat floats, take the line and tie to dock. Better than rollers!
I unhook the safety chain and then give the strap some slack, that way it can float off and the nose has some room to play. May not work for you still from the sounds of your trolling motor situation but that’s how I do it with a 18 footer. If no dock I just climb in the box and onto the trailer and hop in. People probably think I’m doing parkor everytime i launch.
Bunks are made to float off, not slide off. Get a longer rope and like posted connect to the bow eye and the truck. Float it off, pull ahead until you can unhook your rope from the truck without getting wet, pull the boat to the dock and tie it off and park the truck. It will be faster than hopping in and powering it off. I NEVER use silicone on the bunks. When loading be sure to submerge the bunks completely getting them wet then pull ahead to your loading depth.
I unhook the safety chain and then give the strap some slack, that way it can float off and the nose has some room to play. May not work for you still from the sounds of your trolling motor situation but that’s how I do it with a 18 footer. If no dock I just climb in the box and onto the trailer and hop in. People probably think I’m doing parkor everytime i launch.
I do the same thing. Some times it’s like playing on a jungle gym
When loading be sure to submerge the bunks completely getting them wet then pull ahead to your loading depth.
This has made a huge difference for me the past couple seasons. The bunk carpet would rip when it was dry on occasion. Since completely submerging the bunks before loading, I have not had an issue with bunk carpet ripping.
On a steep ramp as you mention using, the “sweet spot” where the boat won’t float off on it’s own, but can be nudged off with the motor as you climb in is smaller. The steeper the launch, the more the nose of the boat digs down into the trailer (and dry carpet)as the rear begins to float. You will ultimately just have to back in a bit further. I would never mess with spraying something on my bunks.
My process with bunk trailer:
1. plug in, straps off, boat loaded with gear, safety chain off (in staging area of lot nowhere near the ramp)
2. back to the point where the back end just begins to float (close to dock). Parking brake, then truck to park.
3. step into boat from dock and unclip strap.
4. walk to the back of the boat and my weight will often be enough to float it off (on my regular ramp). If not my regular ramp I will start the motor, nudge it off, and tie off out of the way.
5. park truck
***Steps 2, 3, 4, take a combined ~60 seconds at the very most where my rig is on the actual ramp.
***If someone is with me I have them stand and watch, or maybe park the truck after if I have something I want to organize in the boat quick. Anything else and they will make it slower.
***If you have a bunk trailer and someone tries to sell you on a Drotto, don’t listen to them on that, or anything boating related.
I also would not spray my bunks.
Crocs FTW! haha. But I do as FinickyFish does. Just loosen the winch strap some, lock winch and then back up until boat floats off. Drive up a little and unhook strap. No wet feet.
I use this product. It works great, I clip the o ring onto my tralier winch and lock it, then clip the other clip onto the bow ring. I back down until it floats off slowly, then pull forward enough to keep my feet dry when I unhook from the tralier winch. Then just pull the boat to the dock and use the rope to tie it down while I park. It’s a really slick solution.
I use this product. It works great, I clip the o ring onto my tralier winch and lock it, then clip the other clip onto the bow ring. I back down until it floats off slowly, then pull forward enough to keep my feet dry when I unhook from the tralier winch. Then just pull the boat to the dock and use the rope to tie it down while I park. It’s a really slick solution.
I’m sorry, but $80 for something everyone else uses a rope for? I do like clipping it to the winch strap though, I always connected my rope to a different part of the trailer, so I did learn something lol.
If you want to clench your teeth and grimace, watch the product video- dragged the fiberglass boat right up on to the concrete launch.
I have used a rope in the past, but it would at times catch in the bunks and often knot itself. At only 20′ long and much thicker, the bungee rope doesn’t do those things. It works well for me.
I also would not spray my bunks.
I would not spray my bunks either. I don’t want my boat to be able to slide off my bunks easily. Like someone else said, I want it to float off and not slide off. When loading, I back far enough into the water to submerge the bunks to get them wet and lubricated with water and then I pull out a bit so that the fenders are just out of the water prior to loading. The boat will then be able to easily be driven right up to the winch roller.
Every boat and trailer will be slightly different but wetting the bunks is a big help when loading with a bunk trailer.
When unloading by myself, I hook a long rope to the front left cleat on my boat and hold it through the window on my drivers side door. Once it’s floated off, I just open the door, go back to the boat and tie it off or beach it if there isn’t a dock.
back it in further till it floats.
If solo back up till almost floating, hop out, and hook a rope to the dock, then back in till it floats, slam on brakes. grab rope and pull it to dock.
Z-launch strap works well for me.
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