Tweaking blade baits

I was wondering if anyone oh here has done any modifications to blade baits? I’ve been making my own for 10+ years starting off adding lead to a flattened willow leaf blade and drilling some holes. I’ve had the do it mold which speeds the process up immensely for a few years now and it realy streamlined the process. The only problem is that the fish show a preference to the willow leaf model with a more subtle action.

My question is has anyone tried either sanding the blanks thinner or gone to a shop and had some thinner blanks made? Would this even tone down the wider wobble or is it more so the position of the lead?

I also looked around to see if I could find a company other than do-it that makes blade bait molds but came up short. There was talk on other forums about the silver buddy mold that has been discontinued having the subtle action that I’m looking for but my only chance at getting one of those is from someone that is willing to part with it. I also don’t know that there are blanks available for it if I were to obtain one.

Maybe I’m putting to much thought into this but with all the knowledge on this site I figured someone might have some insight on the subject.

I have been slowly working on creating my own blade bait by modifying various (Non blade bait) molds i own. Started in October and haven’t been back at it again.

I want to create a 3/16 & 1/4oz on a ZBM and an 1/8 on a ZBS for the slowest current in dead of winter in shallow water. Light vibe action with a slow fall.
This is about all i want to add at this point. I’m not a fan of the willow blade models.

You will get responses on TU if you haven’t already tried.

Best of luck!

Tweak some of these.

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Fishblood&rivermud we are basically looking to achieve the same results but with different methods. It’ll be interesting to see how less weight and a thinner blank preforms.

Tom those are some good looking blades and I was looking at that mold. They are a bit heavier than I like to use but maybe sanding the head down would get the desired effect. How’s the action of those compared to the standard molds?

Bill

BFishin used to have a 3/16 and a 1/8 ounce blade full size.

popcorn wrote:

Tom those are some good looking blades and I was looking at that mold. They are a bit heavier than I like to use but maybe sanding the head down would get the desired effect. How’s the action of those compared to the standard molds?

Bill

These are aggressive. I’ve caught lake trout casting them from the breakwater in Two Harbors using them. They are a heavy lure but they have action with very, very little forward movement.

Hi All,

Just curious what hooks you use when making your own blades? I’d like to replace the hooks on mine with something sticky sharp. If I were to put split rings on the B3 blades would cause the trebles to get caught on the body of the blade or the line more often?

ssperch wrote:

Hi All,

Just curious what hooks you use when making your own blades? I’d like to replace the hooks on mine with something sticky sharp. If I were to put split rings on the B3 blades would cause the trebles to get caught on the body of the blade or the line more often?

http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/VMC-Treble-Double-Hooks/VMC-9608BZ-Clip-In-Treble-Hooks.html

ssperch wrote:

Hi All,

Just curious what hooks you use when making your own blades? I’d like to replace the hooks on mine with something sticky sharp. If I were to put split rings on the B3 blades would cause the trebles to get caught on the body of the blade or the line more often?

From Jann’s Netcraft:

We suggest Mustad 7825NI or VMC9607BZ treble hooks in sizes 8, 6 and 4.

This is what I was looking for! Thanks

What size do you prefer?

Popcorn, are you pitching or working your blades vertical?? I have not built blades but would assume a thicker/heavier blade with less lead involved would help slow your action down a bit. I know you have to have enough weight in the belly area to achieve the right action but the more you balance the weight from top to bottom should make a big difference in the action. Just as much as the shape will.

I know with glide baits you see a big change in action with where the weight is located in the wood. Use X and Z for reference to where the weight is located. X meaning how far up in the bait… Blades always have the weight on the bottom. Z would be for how far forward or back on the bait the weight is located. Tom’s baits above are weighted forward where others the weight is in the belly section. In all blades the weight is on the bottom edge of the baits.

If you want a different action and already have the steel cut out for the blade… Maybe try to get the weight up. I don’t know what this will do but may be worth trying. You can always just use an epoxy to secure the weight to the blade because the mold will be no help. You wont want the weight too far up. It will still have to be at or lower than the center line of the blade but this may change your fall rate and action just by moving your weights location on the bait in addition to the amount of weight you use of course. Also consider your hook size and weight. This can be adjusted as well.

popcorn wrote:

My question is has anyone tried either sanding the blanks thinner or gone to a shop and had some thinner blanks made? Would this even tone down the wider wobble or is it more so the position of the lead?

Its more the position and weight of the lead and the fall rate. I’ve tweaked about every type of spinner blade made into a blade bait and done all kinds of things with the Do-It mold blanks
If you want more vibration, mock the cicada style. If you want less, pour the 1/4oz and take a hammer and tap it flatter

Got these replicated.
Next up… Blade baits.

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Buschman,

I’m mostly pitching blades and the subtle action I’m looking for would mostly be for pitching shallow. I’ve tried several things and for whatever reason those willowleaf blades out fish the molded ones at certain times. I like Randy’s idea of taking a hammer after them but I’d probably use a ball peen on a brass body to thin it out and give it a slight cup. I’ve also messed with clipping weight from either end as well as sanding them thinner to get to a 3/16 or 1/8 oz. It all works and the action changes slightly but as most of us know slight changes can make a world of difference some days. It’s just another tool in the box and some of us enjoy tinkering.

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

Got these replicated.
Next up… Blade baits.

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

Got these replicated.
Next up… Blade baits.

That looks like a fun project I’ve been wanting to try my hand at replecating baits in that manner but just haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Are you just using a wire form and pooring lead into it or adding your weight and pooring with resin?

Alumilite Vac Master 50
UMR -mold release, paintable
Synthetic clay

Stuff isn’t really meant to pour lead, so I coat the molds with 2,000° engine block paint.

Check out alumilite. I’m sure you’ll figure out the rest of the details on their website.

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Randy Wieland wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>popcorn wrote:</div>
My question is has anyone tried either sanding the blanks thinner or gone to a shop and had some thinner blanks made? Would this even tone down the wider wobble or is it more so the position of the lead?

Its more the position and weight of the lead and the fall rate. I’ve tweaked about every type of spinner blade made into a blade bait and done all kinds of things with the Do-It mold blanks
If you want more vibration, mock the cicada style. If you want less, pour the 1/4oz and take a hammer and tap it flatter

Randy are you smacking the lead thinner or you working on the blade itself? Thinking blade but wanted to make sure.

I have been cutting the lead and removing it off 1/2 oz ones because I wanted the larger profile with less weight for the slower drop. Do the same thing with the 1/4 oz ones as well for shallow work.
Might try playing with adding a smaller spinner blade on the back like a lil george but thinking that will mess up the vibration.

Lead

eye-full wrote:

Might try playing with adding a smaller spinner blade on the back like a lil george but thinking that will mess up the vibration.

It totally kills the normal blade vibration. But it is replaced with the vibration from the added blade. Also will slow the fall rate.

I’ve made a few and they have their time and place.

want a blade to vibrate more…bent the tail slightly in either direction and hook your duolock in the rear hole and I promise you it will vibrate more. My dad and I started pouring blades in 1973. I have vertical jigged and pitched almost every size up to 1 ounce and IMO the lighter the better. Now 90% of my blades are 1/8th oz with all the weight on the nose and hooked in the real hole. The other 10% are 1/4 oz weight on the nose and in the rear hole. IMO https://www.curtscustombladebaits.com/ 1/8th oz are the best I have ever fished with hands down. These are very hard to find in the 1/8th size and he can custom paint and color you want, plus the prices are great !!

Thanks Randy will give that a shot. I was given molds from my great uncle that he made (in 60s I think) to make blade baits. He even made a mold to cut the blade itself out of sheet metal or brass. Might try these out with different thickness of blades, see what happens. Like my Do-Its but have to try these!

Yeah I was figuring it would kill the action some. I played with putting a plastic tail on one to see if I could slow the fall rate, completely deadened it though. The lil george works for bass so basically a spinner would turn the sonar into a lil george. Maybe a little more subtle action, worth a try anyways.

There is a guy that makes them out of willow leaf blades and man they work wonderfully. You can barely lift the rod and thing is vibrating. Only thing I don’t like is the size of them, I like a bigger profile then what he makes.