Trolling raps for walleyes

Hello all,
I’m going to try to become better at trolling this year for catching walleye and looking for pointers on what has really made the difference for you. You always hear of people that consistently put fish in the boat trolling raps and they prefer to catch them that way. I will primarily be fishing MN lakes and pepin.

I have picked up a trophy with a 9.9 kicker and will be using good electronics.

If you could go back 20 years of what you have learned that really matters when it comes to boating fish what would you suggest in terms of time periods, size and style of bait, locations and so on what would it be?

thanks guys

The IDO crew did a good trolling video on Lake Pepin about 5 years ago.

Biggest factor… Being on fish.

Then comes speed and profile (both equal importance.

Then comes color.

The result of having everything correct means walleye will be caught on the front treble hook… Not the rear. If they bite on the rear, adjust color and maybe speed slightly.

Another tidbit…

If you are catching sheephead….SPEED UP.

Walleyes always prefer a slightly faster presentation than a sheephead anytime of year.

I’ll troll up to 4mph at times. Usually when water temp is above 75.

I would agree with FBRM on speed…..I always try and start faster and then slow, not the other way around. Especially in warm water. When you have walleyes hit a rap and you’re going downstream at 4.5mph you realize how fast you can go.

Lakes and rivers are 2 different animals in my book. Finding fish and how they relate to structure is of absolute importance on lakes. On the river I’ll run stretches I know historically hold fish and then relate my cranks to the bottom. Intermittent bottom contact on the river is important and will trigger strikes.

I start with midsize or large baits that will get me in the depth needed and match the forage base first usually. Then it’s just experimentation and looking for signs of what will work.

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

Biggest factor… Being on fish.

Then comes speed and profile (both equal importance.

Then comes color.

The result of having everything correct means <strong class=”ido-tag-strong”>walleye will be caught on the front treble hook… Not the rear. If they bite on the rear, adjust color and maybe speed slightly.

I’m gonna agree with this 100%, especially in that order.
If something isn’t working, change speed and/or profile long before you start trying to dial in a color. In my experience, color is one of the least significant factors.

Also, sometimes the specific direction you troll is much more productive than any other. With/against the wind or current. Every day is different. Just need to repeat what works.

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

I’ll troll up to 4mph at times. Usually when water temp is above 75.

Just to be clear this speed range does not include current. So top end may be over 5mph gps if fishing a river… But I always subtract current speed.

I caught a state record big mouth Buffalo at 5mph going downstream once upon a time… Like hitting a snag that fought like a sheet of plywood.

My 2 cents worth…

Always troll with the wind if you can.

Your crank will dive deeper trolling downstream with the same amount of line out. Adjust accordingly.

-J.

Fife wrote:

The IDO crew did a good trolling video on Lake Pepin about 5 years ago.

-J.

Early in the season start shallow, and work out from there. How shallow? We will work Red and other systems with the prop kicking up sand, and a small shad or minnow bait only a couple yards behind the prop wash getting hammered by aggressive eyes. Now we don’t normally start in 3′, but somewhere along that first break; and meander deeper/shallower until we start getting action.
There’s definitely times for stealth, but for the most part if there’s any sort of chop an outboard doesn’t bother them a bit; and may attract them.

Switch colors often until you find what they like – assuming you’re using a lure that’s reaching target depth. Preferred color changes throughout the day.

And, regarding depth – there’s a lot of wiggle room there. We typically troll with spinning gear unless we’re pulling boards. No need for line counters, etc for the majority of early season trolling. Cast the crank back, if it starts smacking bottom reel in a bit. It’s that simple.

Warning – you many need to join crankbaiters anonymous like we have, because once you start catching them you’ll be addicted; and the 3700’s full of lures will start adding up! =)

The first thing I’d do to increase trolling success is to get a TrollMaster or iTroll for your kicker to precisely control speed by the touch of a dial. I troll cranks a lot with my 9.9 Pro Kicker and a TrollMaster was one of the best purchases I’ve ever made to help me catch more fish. A few tenths of a mile/hour can many times mean the difference between catching or not catching walleyes and something to easily control trolling speed precisely is really a plus.
Like the other guys have said, troll with the wind when possible and change cranks a lot. Change both colors and profiles…………trolling crankbaits successfully isn’t just putting a crank in the water and driving. On most days to be successful it’s work.

I did pick up a new 9.9 EFI and having the trollmaster 3 Pro put on it so that will help narrow down that variable. I appreciate all the insight on philosophies to boat fish. It just always seems like it gets tough to consistently boat fish trolling come late June early July in MN.

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

Biggest factor… Being on fish.

Then comes speed and profile (both equal importance.

Then comes color.

The result of having everything correct means <strong class=”ido-tag-strong”>walleye will be caught on the front treble hook… Not the rear. If they bite on the rear, adjust color and maybe speed slightly.

I have preached this in seminars for years. Re-read the last two sentences above and then re-read them again. How a fish eats a bait tells you what you need to know!

New to comment long time reader and In-Depth Outdoors has helped with questions/advice.Thanks

Congrats on your new boat. I picked up the Alumacraft Edge175 2 years ago. Pretty much the same except no live well up front.Had a “house battery” installed to run accessories that way saves the starting battery just for starting.Troll batteries are separate from the house battery.
Has a main off switch located in battery compartment just in case one of the kids or me leaves the power button on at the helm.

Like previously mentioned above, shallow has also been productive for me 8-12ft.at Big GreeN Lke,WI this year.Picked up a few sm mouth in the process.
Raps and Flikr shad.
have fun.
Dave

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