Transom saver.

  • Aboxy17
    Posts: 433
    #2206276

    I have a 16-foot Lund with a Suzuki DF25 V-twin tiller, That weighs 160 pounds give or take. I have it bolted into the transom right now. I will tow it some long distances this summer for up to 4 hours. Is a transom saver really a necessity for a 25 HP motor? Thanks for any help.

    John Rasmussen
    Blaine
    Posts: 6474
    #2206278

    Here we go again. You can search and see the pages of responses from last time. If it were mine I would probably just go with the wedge since it stows easily.

    Bearcat89
    North branch, mn
    Posts: 20826
    #2206279

    Transom saver takes 10 seconds to put on and is as easy as it gets. Easy piece of mine.
    That said, I don’t use one

    biggill
    East Bethel, MN
    Posts: 11321
    #2206281

    Do you travel with it vertical or tilted? If it’s vertical, nothing is needed.

    gim
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17848
    #2206282

    If it were mine I would probably just go with the wedge since it stows easily.

    I use this too. 75 hp merc 4-stroke.

    For a 25 hp as the OP has, even a section of 2 x 4 placed horizontally with the trim clamped down would also work and be a lot cheaper.

    TillrLife
    Cold Spring, MN
    Posts: 891
    #2206303

    IMO, the only benefit(regardless of HP) to a “transom saver” is it keeps the motor straight ahead. Which honestly is just an appearance thing, I need my motor straight or I will stop my vehicle and make it straight. OCD I guess.

    dirtywater
    Posts: 1627
    #2206313

    IMO, the only benefit(regardless of HP) to a “transom saver” is it keeps the motor straight ahead. Which honestly is just an appearance thing, I need my motor straight or I will stop my vehicle and make it straight. OCD I guess.

    On my old duck boat I had no transom straps so used ratchet straps across the boat and down to the trailer. I had one run right over the tiller handle and I used a little nightize thing to connect the tiller handle to the strap to keep it from moving during transport. It was totally unnecessary but it helped my dumb brain to look back in the rear view and see a straight motor

    Aboxy17
    Posts: 433
    #2206316

    Thanks for all the help guys, My understanding was the transom saver reduced strain on the transom caused by the weight of the motor when hitting bumps and things like that. I’m a new boat owner so still getting used to everything. Thanks for the help again.

    crossin_eyes
    Lakeville, MN
    Posts: 1379
    #2206321

    Aboxy, does your 25hp Suzuki have power trim? I had a mid-90s Alumacraft with a 25 Suzuki at one point, and I didn’t have power trim. I just ran a bungee across the back of the transom so the motor wouldn’t swing back and forth, but I never used a transom saver.

    Bearcat89
    North branch, mn
    Posts: 20826
    #2206324

    Aboxy, does your 25hp Suzuki have power trim? I had a mid-90s Alumacraft with a 25 Suzuki at one point, and I didn’t have power trim. I just ran a bungee across the back of the transom so the motor wouldn’t swing back and forth, but I never used a transom saver.

    I did the same on my mariner 25 when I had that

    glenn57
    cold spring mn
    Posts: 12112
    #2206341

    i have a 40 horse on a 16 ft lund with electric lift…….i wouldnt go without a transom saver……screw the wood block!!!!!!! but that’s just me!!!!

    Jon Jordan
    Keymaster
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 6051
    #2206347

    FWIW – I run a TS on a 16 ft boat with 25hp motor.

    -J.

    tim hurley
    Posts: 5851
    #2206367

    The more I can streamline this boat crap the better, put it on store take off put on, and 20 other things that really do not take that long… have never used one and nothing has gotten damaged-When I started fishing a simple boat was on a dock I untied it started the motor & I was off, yup I was lucky.

    KPE
    River Falls, WI
    Posts: 1717
    #2206453

    The purpose is to protect your skeg from slamming into the ground in the event that your hydraulic trim goes out while driving. If you have manual tilt/ trim just pin it in the up position. The most stress your transom will ever see is running wot on the water, allegedly.

    Wood block is the natural, superior choice. I prefer untreated Pine. Might put a coat of boiled linseed oil on it to dress it up. The possibilities are endless.

    jbg1219
    NW Iowa
    Posts: 658
    #2206580

    If it has tilt and trim, I would recommend something, but not a transom saver. Get a m-y wedge and be done with it. I have never been fond of tying the motor to the trailer with a transom saver. if it is manual tilt, and your trailer allows it, just leave the motor in the normal operating position, and drive, with no other protection other than the motor locked in the running position. I have a 1976 16 foot boat that has been hauled this way for my entire life and still going strong with no transom damage.

    Pat K
    Empire, MN
    Posts: 904
    #2206592

    IMO, the only benefit(regardless of HP) to a “transom saver” is it keeps the motor straight ahead. Which honestly is just an appearance thing, I need my motor straight or I will stop my vehicle and make it straight. OCD I guess.

    A friend that passed a few years ago was an aluminum welder. He did work for several boat dealers and shops.
    He repaired a few lower units every year that had been damaged transom savers. He said people that put enough pressure on the motor to hold it straight were one of the major causes of damage to lower units.

    Aboxy17
    Posts: 433
    #2206593

    Aboxy, does your 25hp Suzuki have power trim? I had a mid-90s Alumacraft with a 25 Suzuki at one point, and I didn’t have power trim. I just ran a bungee across the back of the transom so the motor wouldn’t swing back and forth, but I never used a transom saver.

    It does not no, Manuel Tilt/Trim. However, I do have a lever that locks in the steering so it doesn’t swing back and forth while driving.

    Aboxy17
    Posts: 433
    #2206594

    The tilt is hydraulic assisted however so you do not have to use much strength to get it tilted. Is this the case with most manual tilt/trim motors or is it not as common?

    Hodag Hunter
    Northern Wisconsin
    Posts: 476
    #2206746

    I can’t see how any of those would save your transom at all. It’s bolted in the same place. All the weight is in the same place. Save your trim ram maybe??? IMO if you want to take the weight/pressure from bouncing on your transom the lower unit needs to be supported by the trailer. BUT then there are those that say every bump the trailer takes gets transferred to you motor (???). Dealer told me to trim my motor up so 1/2 the weight is in front of the transom and go.

    But what do I know. I have a better than basic knowledge of physics. I have only had a real boat, 16′ w/ 60 Merc, for 2 summers and only take it 2 miles to the landing. I did buy a trailer mounted support (Ve-Ve – made in USA and sturdier than the other 3 brands I looked at) for mine. And if I ever go far that is what I will use.

    TillrLife
    Cold Spring, MN
    Posts: 891
    #2206798

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Cole wrote:</div>
    IMO, the only benefit(regardless of HP) to a “transom saver” is it keeps the motor straight ahead. Which honestly is just an appearance thing, I need my motor straight or I will stop my vehicle and make it straight. OCD I guess.

    A friend that passed a few years ago was an aluminum welder. He did work for several boat dealers and shops.
    He repaired a few lower units every year that had been damaged transom savers. He said people that put enough pressure on the motor to hold it straight were one of the major causes of damage to lower units.

    I completely agree with your friend. It’s a note I meant to make, but I guess I didn’t.

    mojogunter
    Posts: 3318
    #2206937

    I use a transom saver. I don’t know if it really saves the transom. There is a lot of weight, over 620lbs hanging there. I guess the most important thing for me is if it wasn’t there holding the motor up and the trim cylinders failed it wouldn’t keep the motor from dropping saving the skeg and prop from hitting the ground while going 70mph.

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