Transom saver

Looking for a saver for my Lund rebel with a 50 hp. Lund trailer has lights on crossbar where you put the TS. Any suggestions for one where I wudnt have to
Mess with the lights? Thanks

You could try a hydraulic wedge instead. Its what I use on my Merc 75 4-stroke outboard. I don’t know what kind of outboard you have.

With that small of a motor I think you would be a good candidate for the Wedge.

https://www.veveinc.com/shop/Transom-Saver-TS-83-Frame-Mount-Straight-Tube.html

There are a few mounting styles, sounds like this style in the link would work better for you.

I used the one in mark’s post on an F100 Yamaha for 20 years. I was going to replace the rubber “V” but traded the boat in. Worked fine. On the new tiller boat with a 90 hp I’m using a M-Y Wedge.

Can someone please school me on the wedges many people use. I’m not a doctor or mechanic but how does that protect the transom when it provides no additional support to anything but the motor hydraulics? Am I completely wrong in this thought? Seems to me (again, not a doctor or mechanic) that the only beneficial “transom saver” is one that mounts to the trailer frame to relieve the weight of the motor on the transom during travel.

I’ve used the one Mark shows above on my last 3 boats, has worked great on a 30hp tiller/90 remote and a 175.
Well, except for that time that I took it off and set it down next to the ramp and left it there when I went out. Long gone when I got back to the ramp. Ooops.

404 ERROR wrote:

Can someone please school me on the wedges many people use. I’m not a doctor or mechanic but how does that protect the transom when it provides no additional support to anything but the motor hydraulics? Am I completely wrong in this thought?

I used to always use a transom saver with my family’s boats growing up until I bought my own boat in 2015. The mechanic recommended a wedge instead. I was skeptical at first, just like you are. This is essentially what the mechanic told me:

“There is no effectual difference between a transom saver or a my wedge, both basically do the same thing, they support your tilt and trim hydraulics, nothing more. If you support your hydraulics on your motor, it is not going to bounce and therefore not damage your transom.”

The price is very similar for both. The selling point for me is the size/storage. In the end they are both essentially doing the same thing. The OP mentioned how he has trailer lights where the transom saver would go, so a wedge would avoid dealing with that problem completely.

gim wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Merican Eagle wrote:</div>
Can someone please school me on the wedges many people use. I’m not a doctor or mechanic but how does that protect the transom when it provides no additional support to anything but the motor hydraulics? Am I completely wrong in this thought?

I used to always use a transom saver with my family’s boats growing up until I bought my own boat in 2015. The mechanic recommended a wedge instead. I was skeptical at first, just like you are. This is essentially what the mechanic told me:

“There is no effectual difference between a transom saver or a my wedge, both basically do the same thing, they support your tilt and trim hydraulics, nothing more. If you support your hydraulics on your motor, it is not going to bounce and therefore not damage your transom.”

The price is very similar for both. The selling point for me is the size/storage. In the end they are both essentially doing the same thing. The OP mentioned how he has trailer lights where the transom saver would go, so a wedge would avoid dealing with that problem completely.

———————-
I disagree that the Wedge and Transom Saver do the same thing. The Wedge does zero to take any downward pressure off the transom. ALL the weight is still supported by the motor mount. Grab the lower unit and force it up and down. Then install the Wedge (or a piece of wood) and do the same thing. You will see the same flex in the boat’s transom. The wedge will take pressure off the hydraulic cylinder only. BUT I don’t think the top of the lift cylinder is designed to take that pressure/force.

The lights are zero issue. Last summer I bought an Alumacraft Classic CS165 with a 60hp Merc. I tried both. I use the VE-VE TS-85 and it works perfect. I bought the curved one but could have used the straight. It would easily clear the trailer light.

The only thing was my trailer frame was a little narrower than the bracket is designed for. It fits many size trailers. The bracket turned slightly when I set the motor down. I talked to the owner of VE-VE and he said it wasn’t an issue. BUT since I am anal (perfect is “good enough”) I jammed a 3/16″ thick piece of rubber mud flap in between the back of the Z- bracket and frame so when I set the lowered the motor on it didn’t twist at all.

I had several brands of transom savers in my hand. The VE-VE was easily the strongest. Made in the USA – MN too.

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I respect your opinion Hodag, and you present a sound case for a transom saver. However, I trust a mechanic more than someone I don’t know online, so I went with a wedge instead. I only passed along what I was told when I bought my boat in 2015.

Waaaay more pressure on your transom and LU when running open water than trailering. I am a wedge guy as well and have been for a lot of years. Motor has not fallen off the boat yet. 🤷‍♂️

Otherwise the pic Hodag has should work fine.

is there any difference using the wedge or just a piece of wood. I have been using a log that a beaver left me chewed to the perfect length. Got to love free stuff.

fishdale wrote:

is there any difference using the wedge or just a piece of wood. I have been using a log that a beaver left me chewed to the perfect length. Got to love free stuff.

Winner winner. I’d go with the beaver wedge too regardless if it works or not. 👍

gim wrote:

I respect your opinion Hodag, and you present a sound case for a transom saver. However, I trust a mechanic more than someone I don’t know online, so I went with a wedge instead. I only passed along what I was told when I bought my boat in 2015.

———–

I understand. Get as much info as you can and make your own decision.

One of the many good things I like about this place is the respect we show each other. I know of no other forum that is like us.

FWIW When I boat my (first and last “real”) boat last summer, I called Alumacraft and Mercury. Both said neither option was needed but wouldn’t hurt anything.

Thank you all for your ideas. I think I will go with the wedge after reading all the different replies. Seems very easy and I only use a 50hp on a boat rated for a 75 so hoping it is good enough. Thanks again!

Using a transom saver also keeps the motor (tiller) from flopping side to side going around turns.

-J.

Anyone ever had issues that were directly related to not or by having a transom saver/wedge?

Could just be snake oil at this point, topic has been discussed 10000x here over the years

I love transom saver threads! So, so many strong opinions. Next, let’s hear about which motor oil I should use.

Not with a transom but the piece that holds the motor up was bent when I bought it so the wedge or TS will give me piece of mind when towing

Jon Jordan wrote:

Using a transom saver also keeps the motor (tiller) from flopping side to side going around turns.

-J.

Not on my Father’s boat it doesn’t lol

Deuces wrote:

Anyone ever had issues that were directly related to not or by having a transom saver/wedge?

Could just be snake oil at this point, topic has been discussed 10000x here over the years

I cracked the transom support on my duck boat. No clue if it was the stumps I hit at full speed or from trailering. But I put a transom saver on after redneck fixing the support.

Jon Jordan wrote:

Using a transom saver also keeps the motor (tiller) from flopping side to side going around turns.

-J.

A friend of mine that passed a few years ago welded aluminum. He did work for several marinas and shops in the area. He said the most common ways people damaged their lower units with a transom saver was using it when the rubber cushion or buttons were worn out and people continued to use them. The more difficult repairs were from people putting too much pressure on the saver to try and keep the motor from turning. The worn parts just wear holes in the lower unit that can be repaired easily. But too much pressure on the bar can cause tears in and deformities to the skin that often can’t be patched.

404 ERROR wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Notmafiaguy wrote:</div>
Anyone ever had issues that were directly related to not or by having a transom saver/wedge?

Could just be snake oil at this point, topic has been discussed 10000x here over the years

I cracked the transom support on my duck boat. No clue if it was the stumps I hit at full speed or from trailering. But I put a transom saver on after redneck fixing the support.

I am willing to bet is was the other.

Jon Jordan wrote:

Using a transom saver also keeps the motor (tiller) from flopping side to side going around turns.

-J.

10$ centering clips. Probably more important than any transom saver IMO.

When I got my new 2020 Pro Guide the dealership said use the M-Y Wedge. I called Yamaha and they said use a wedge or a transom saver but use something. I chose the wedge this time. When cold the M-Y Wedge is difficult to get off the piston rod. I have a 2 x 4 handy for those instances. I also use the M-Y Wedge centering clips to keep the motor straight. On my old boat with a side console, I bungeed the steering wheel to the driver’s seat.

Ripjiggen wrote:

10$ centering clips. Probably more important than any transom saver IMO.

2x

I have Seastar hydraulic steering. My big motor will slowly turn when trailering if I don’t use them.

I have the wedge as well for the last 3 years.
Never had trouble getting it off though and it fits perfectly over the edge of the little storage compartment next to my throttle.
That was I don’t lose it.
Takes two seconds to put on and two seconds to take off.
Had the dealer shop guy explain why it works. Already covered here. I also have the bar kind which I never use.

Here is some information I found when I was debating on which I wanted.

Boating

“How to Choose Between a Motor Tote and Transom Saver to Support an Outboard While Trailering
How to decide between a motor tote and transom saver for your outboard motor.

By Jim Hendricks
August 6, 2021

Use a motor tote to support an outboard while towing
Motor totes use the transom to support an outboard while towing but require steering locks to keep the engine straight. Courtesy DD26 Fishing
Most engine and boat brands recommend bracing the lower unit when it’s tilted for trailering to alleviate stress induced by road vibrations and jolts to the hydraulic tilt-and-trim system and the boat’s transom. Today the choice boils down to one of two means of support: a motor tote or a traditional transom saver. The correct answer is debated among both boaters and boatbuilders, says Dave Davis, founder and owner of DD26 Fishing, which engineers and builds motor totes to fit a variety of outboard models.

“Neither is better than the other,” Davis says. “But there are situations in which one might be better-suited than the other.”

Transom Saver
Most transom savers keep an ­outboard straight while trailering, but with a motor tote, steering locks such as the T-H Marine 4-inch clips ($14.99 per pair, thmarinesupplies.com) are needed to keep the engine from ­flopping over.

Transom savers offer length adjustment. The West Marine transom saver ($64.99, westmarine.com), for example, adjusts from 26 to 38 inches, depending on how high you want to tilt the lower unit. Motor totes, on the other hand, are fixed in terms of how high the lower unit is tilted.

A transom saver to use while towing
Transom savers—a traditional means of bracing an outboard while towing—use the trailer’s rear cross member for support. Courtesy West Marine
On smaller aluminum boats or older fiberglass boats with wood-core ­transoms, a transom saver is often the best choice, ­Davis says. “A motor tote forces the transom to carry the weight while trailering, but that might not be a good idea unless the transom is 100 percent solid and strong,” he explains. A transom ­saver enables the trailer’s rear cross member to carry some of the weight.

Motor Tote
A motor tote such as the DD26 Ybrid ($169.99) is machined from aircraft-grade aluminum and fitted with automotive bump stops. It snugs between the hydraulic trim rams and the tilt bracket to firmly brace an outboard once trimmed down tight. Importantly, it unifies the engine and boat while trailering to eliminate motor bounce that can damage the trim system or transom.

A transom saver, on the other hand, which relies on the rear cross member of the trailer, can shift position more easily. “A boat definitely moves and bounces around on a trailer while towing, even with everything strapped down right,” Davis points out. A transom saver, which can change the spacing between the ­lower unit and the trailer, negates some of the support.

With a motor tote, the ­outboard and boat move as one, independently of the trailer, so there are no concerns about the boat shifting on the trailer, he says.

In addition, motor totes will not harm the finish of the lower unit. With a ­transom saver, however, the “V” portion of the device that cradles the lower unit often leaves scratches in the lower unit.

Perhaps, most significantly, many multi-­outboard boats—and even single-­outboard models with transom brackets—are poorly suited to using transom-­saver-style devices. With multi-engine boats, it’s difficult to engineer attachment points on the trailer for multiple ­transom savers.

What’s more, when a boat has an outboard mounted on an extended transom ­bracket, the distance between the outboard lower unit and the rear trailer cross member is often so great that a transom saver becomes ­impractical. In these circumstances, ­using motor totes is the best choice for support while trailering.”

gizmoguy wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Ripjiggen wrote:</div>
10$ centering clips. Probably more important than any transom saver IMO.

2x

I have Seastar hydraulic steering. My big motor will slowly turn when trailering if I don’t use them.

Same….my F150 would turn by just looking at it wrong. some days trailering it would be fine then one day it started doing it ALL the time. i was actually going to swap out my wedge for a normal transom saver to fix the problem until i seen they made the centering clips. i actually made my own out of a heavy duty hose. cut it to size and they slide on easy and never did it again.

Topic has “transom saver” in it, time to get my popcorn!

Physics dictates the stress on the transom is much, much higher when you are running WOT on the water. There is no debate on this, and anyone telling you otherwise needs to go back to high school physics class.

BUT you certainly don’t want your motor falling to the ground when your tilt and trim hydraulics fail, so you need something.

Here’s my experience, and remember, I’m just a stranger on the internet.

1) transom savers are ugly, cumbersome, and in my case the transom saver damaged my lower unit when the rubber V block inside of it fell apart on the road. I’ll never use one again. Some guys are in love with them as you see above. Alos vastly overpriced in most cases.

2) Wedge is a totally overpriced chunk of rubber, and is absolute garbage in the winter. That being said I do use one in the warm months. As soon as fall rolls around I revert to option #3–>

3) 2×4 is your friend, especially in cold weather. Also works in warm weather. Can typically be had for $0.00 and is easily replaced. I got real fancy and drilled a hole and put a rope through one end, very high speed low drag and tactical. Might even paint it black one day. You could even use a 4×4 if you want. Or a 2×6. The world is your oyster.