Starting on a fun project with the boat.
I have one question, what engineer decide it would be a good idea to weld transom cap to a boat lol!
So, far the worst rot I am finding is directly in front of the motor and the sides are still solid. I will be pulling out entire panel this weekend.
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Transom.jpg
Yuck! Good luck!
I was looking at the same repairs in 2014 for the 2004 Fish Hawk I bought brand new. Instead I sold it and bought a glass boat that was 2 years older and I couldn’t be happier. I bet I have twice as many miles on my 2002 boat in 5 years than I did in my Crestliner. I know miles don’t compare to years but I learned my lesson with the low grade tin boats. Never again.
Unless of course you enjoy doing these things. Good luck. Post pics as you go.
I have one question, what engineer decide it would be a good idea to weld transom cap to a boat lol!
The same one that decided it would be a good idea to seal layers of wood between two layers of metal anywhere on a boat.
Good luck with the project.
Grouse
When mine was replaced a few years ago, the wood came out with a spoon and a vacuum. 
Long past rotten
Big job. Good luck
Would love a glass boat but I got a smoking deal on this boat and I can pull it with my Subaru with no problems. 17 years on this transom so once I glass the new plywood I should be able get another 20 years out of it.
The welded transom cap is a bugger, but the rest of the procedure is pretty straight forward. Time consuming but not difficult. I did mine last year and it was water ready in 2 days from start. I look at boats much like cars, when you have a 10+ year old car (or boat) you will have repairs that need to be made.
Seems like way too many penetrations to me. I wonder if something other than wood could go back in its place? Starboard?
Yeah there is bunch of crap, but I am going to weld up a few holes and I think epoxying the wood should be fine once I seal everything up with 4200 and 5200 silicone.
HUH….
Hmmmm I might have to look into that stuff.
When mine was replaced a few years ago, the wood came out with a spoon and a vacuum.
Long past rottenBig job. Good luck
Did one on a fiberglass duck boat last year that was disgusting. Ended up using a chainsaw. Sounds nuts but it was soft and rotten and just couldn’t figure out a better way.
Welded cap is a bugger. I did my old lund pro angler two years ago. It wasn’t that bad because everything was screwed or bolted. I was able to get the old board out in one piece to use as a template. Took me less than three hours to pull the motor and remove the board, but I had access to a chain hoist. It took about 8 hours to reinstall everything. I was able to fold the old transom board in half by hand when project was complete.
What did you all use for your replacement material? Wood again or did you use a composite of some sort?
There is no reason manufacturers can’t and should not have been using an aluminum honeycomb extruded product in the transoms. Just another example of shoddy craftsmanship from aluminum boat manufacturers. Also to all those guys talking about fiberglass many manufacturers use wood in them as well, make sure you’re doing your homework before you purchase.
so how will I know when my transom needs attention? I guess I heard of them using wood but I assumed it was in the 80’s and 90’s. I have a 2006 allumacraft and I see no signs yet but I have no idea what to look for. Is this something that needs to be done every 10, 20, 30 years? I get it probably has to do with hours in the water but I was not aware this is an issue in newer boats.
Grab hold of the lower unit of your outboard and lift. The transom shouldn’t flex. The other thing to look for is black rings around the rivets. If the material is moving, there will be a black ring. If it’s solid there won’t be.
Had my transom fixed about 10 years ago. Before the repair I’d have a lot of water in the bilge. After the repair she’s as tight as a drum.
S.R.
Replaced the transom in my 2000 Lund Alaskan with a composite product called Coosa board. Not cheap, but it will also never rot. There is also a portable mix called Seacast that you could look into. process seemed easy, but price was going to be comparable given the size of my transom void. Coosa was very easy to work with.
aluminum honeycomb would be awesome… But we would see a respective raising in price as well.
I replaced with wood again, my boat is very old and I re-built everything else in it including the motor, so I already blew my budget on the fixup and had to save money in all aspects. I will more than likely be doing it again but I went in knowing this.
I think boat manufacturers used wood because it was never a concern brought up until long after the boat was manufactured. If I remember correctly Lund and other companies are making the switch to a composite transom.
so I have a 2002 17′ c liner fishawk. not a matter “if” and perhaps “when” this will take place on my boat? I have no issues yet..
aluminum honeycomb would be awesome… But we would see a respective raising in price as well.
Thats also part of the complete BS about Alum boat builders quality vs. cost. Alum boats have skyrocketed in cost over the last 15 yrs. Their inflation in cost has been much higher that the increased cost in fiberglass. The aluminum boats have not gotten any better than they were. The components used and craftsmanship of Brunswick and Alumacraft certainly do not match the cost.
I feel they could make a much better product for the same cost they are and still be turning great profits. Family members working for Lund have been working OT now for several years.
Grab hold of the lower unit of your outboard and lift. The transom shouldn’t flex. The other thing to look for is black rings around the rivets. If the material is moving, there will be a black ring. If it’s solid there won’t be.
Had my transom fixed about 10 years ago. Before the repair I’d have a lot of water in the bilge. After the repair she’s as tight as a drum.
S.R.
thanks steve! I will check tomorrow…..just got the cover off my boat and once I get my batteries in, its ready to roll. going to look at a slightly used mercury tomorrow in LaCrosse. If it is everything I hoped for I got to make the decision to either re power or sell my boat and up grade. I am kind of nervous but excited also. part of me wants to put the money and get that newer 4 stroke and another part wants to sell and up grade. I really love my boat for so many reasons but if the money is right…………..I just love the look of the tin boats.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Harvester wrote:</div>
aluminum honeycomb would be awesome… But we would see a respective raising in price as well.Thats also part of the complete BS about Alum boat builders quality vs. cost. Alum boats have skyrocketed in cost over the last 15 yrs. Their inflation in cost has been much higher that the increased cost in fiberglass. The aluminum boats have not gotten any better than they were. The components used and craftsmanship of Brunswick and Alumacraft certainly do not match the cost.
I feel they could make a much better product for the same cost they are and still be turning great profits. Family members working for Lund have been working OT now for several years.
Price going up has nothing to do with the quality put into the product and everything to do with what the amount of consumers willing (and able with more financing options available now) to pay. Expecting higher quality because it costs more should be but just isn’t true.
I’m sure sooner or later my 01 pro sport is going to need this done but so far (knock on wood, pun intended) she is still solid.
When I did the transom on my 2000 Crestline 182 Tournament. I took a hacksaw and cut the transom ridge cap. Then took a short piece of aluminum and bent it to fit over the top cap painted it and screwed it back on to cover the cut.
When I did mine I cut the transom board to size then slid it in place drilled all the holes I needed then used a wood epoxy sealant. It was a 2 part very thin the marine plywood soaked it up like a sponge.
I’m not sure if I need to worry about this or not…maybe? My Tyee is a 92 but seems solid. At least I hope.
My question is for those DIY in your garage, how to you unbolt and remove a 100+ hp outboard?
My question is for those DIY in your garage, how to you unbolt and remove a 100+ hp outboard?
Engine hoist/cherry picker.
I’m not sure if I need to worry about this or not…maybe? My Tyee is a 92 but seems solid. At least I hope.
My question is for those DIY in your garage, how to you unbolt and remove a 100+ hp outboard?
I borrowed a chain hoist. After I was done I figured I could have just attached the motor to the rafter and used the tongue jack on the trailer. 50 horse. I did put some boards in so the weight was distributed to two rafters.
If you need a new transom try contacting Lund/Crestliner. It is not under warranty in certain years but apparently they sell new transoms. In another forum there was a guy that paid quite a bit less for a new composite transom than what I had mine built for.
Now Alumacraft have switched to all aluminum transom also G3 and Lund has a composite . From what i see it was a cost thing to go with untreated wood in transoms. Manufactures had to truck waste material to be processed . Cheaper to go untreated for them turned out to be such a good business decision .
Well lol, I got it out tonight. I will post pictures tomorrow. Btw Holy crap the hardest part so far was getting the two allen heads out of the foam that were buried under the splash well. Jeeeze!! Also removing splash tubes was simple to use a door skin crimper and lite tap of a hammer.
I lifted the rotted transom out by using screw in bolt eyes that drilled into the transom and then ran ratchet straps over the ceiling joist lol. She split right in to the center was completely rotted through.
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