Trailering on bunk trailer…

With my new rig (Crestliner Pro Tiller 1850…) I opted for a bunk trailer. I practiced a few different depths on backing down the trailer to find that magic depth for loading (and think I found it…) but was wondering if anyone has ‘rule of thumb’ tips on trailering with a bunk trailer. Thanks…RR

I back my warrior V177 in till the very front of bunks are just at the height of, or a little above, the water. That works perfect for me.

Evan Pheneger wrote:

I back my warrior V177 in till the very front of bunks are just at the height of, or a little above, the water. That works perfect for me.

X2

On Most of the Bass boats that I’ve owned or landed, it seems the magic spot id right at the point where the top of the wheelwells are just barely out of the water. Once you get yours figured out I’d use the wheelwells as a reference.

Evan Pheneger wrote:

I back my warrior V177 in till the very front of bunks are just at the height of, or a little above, the water. That works perfect for me.

x3

roosterrouster wrote:

but was wondering if anyone has ‘rule of thumb’ tips on trailering with a bunk trailer. Thanks…RR

There’s nothing unique to a bunk trailer that I can think of. Do your normal safety inspection you’d do pulling any trailer (transom straps, safety chain, lights, tires, etc.) hook up and go.

Depending on the hull shape, steps in the hull, and the configuration of the bunks, some boats can get onto the trailer slightly crooked or tilted to port/starboard. The boat will then “settle” onto the trailer and shift on the bunks once underway on the road. This can result in loose transom tie downs.

I try to pull out of the water very slowly to allow the boat to float and settle into the proper position on the trailer as the trailer comes out of the water. Essentially, the trailer is “rising” to meet the hull of the boat as I pull out of the water. I want to allow the boat’s shape enough time so it guides itself into its proper position on the bunks.

Grouse

Thanks all…RR

All I can add is the magic depth of backing in for an easy load is at times dependent on the angle of the ramp. A slight difference can help. I use the same rule of thumb, an average of the top of my fenders and a point on the bunks.

When at a new ramp, I pay attention to where the boat floats off as compared to the depth of the trailer, and use that as a small adjustment for going back to re-load.

If in a side wind or current, backing in a little less will give you a better point to help center the boat between the center rails before either driving, winching, or a combination of both. Much harder if the trailer is in too far, and the boat just floats off center.

In the spring the water can be full of junk like sticks and wood chunks which can get stuck in between the boat and bunks. Try to rember to look when you see the junk floating in the water. Took me 3 times putting boat in and pulling out to get the crap out from the bunks last time I launched

If you determine the boat is a little hard to slide on the bunks. Let it sit in the sun and dry out in the boat launch. Spray a whole can of 100% silicon into the carpet. let sit in the sun a bit more. It will be alot easier to slide on and off. Becareful when you launch it for the first time after the treatment. The first couple of times it may act like a roller trailer. I treat mine every year. Or I couldn’t budge it. But it is a big glass boat (WX2100).

Wow! More great suggestions. Thanks again all…RR