trailer grease zerk ?

  • cheers
    Posts: 333
    #1974723

    I have a new to me trailer that has a grease fitting on the spindle . My question is what is it servicing ? The inside bearing , just filling the void between bearings with grease to prevent water accumulating , both bearings, or something else ?
    Thanks for your input

    Tinker
    Iron Range
    Posts: 99
    #1974727

    I have the Vortex hubs with grease fittings and dust caps that are threaded. Remove the cap and let the new grease push out the old grease.

    bigcrappie
    Blaine
    Posts: 4304
    #1974745

    You have a Karavan trailer like me, The grease comes from the back and pushes through the rear bearing then the void then the front bearing. When filling the extra comes out the front around the bearing. I did not grease for a year or 2 or 5 and found out the hard way how there system works on my way up north on a week long trip burned up one wheel.

    Mike W
    MN/Anoka/Ham lake
    Posts: 13294
    #1974747

    My trailers have had this for years. Seems like a decent system. Better than bearing buddies because like stated above old grease gets pushed to the front and just wipe it out. I put a couple squirts of grease in each one roughly twice a year.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #1974756

    The grease comes from the back and pushes through the rear bearing then the void then the front bearing.

    So the entire void between the inner and outer bearing gets filled with grease? That seems like a ton of excess grease to me.

    Reef W
    Posts: 2706
    #1974768

    So the entire void between the inner and outer bearing gets filled with grease? That seems like a ton of excess grease to me.

    It’s a lot of grease but it’s easy and you don’t have to take anything apart. I just pump it in until it’s coming out clean and new looking and catch what’s pushed out in a solo cup. Put the dust shield back on and you’re done. I switched to the big tubes (14oz?) instead of the mini ones for doing this.

    Jon Jordan
    Keymaster
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 6011
    #1974772

    The one thing you want to be careful of is not blowing out the rear/inner seal. Go slow adding the grease. Warm / hot days are best IMO.

    p.s. you will know pretty quick if your rear seal is blown. This inner tire rim will be coated with grease then covered in dust. Not a fun mess to deal with.

    -J.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #1974779

    It’s a lot of grease but it’s easy and you don’t have to take anything apart.

    I hear you–it sounds easier and cleaner. I’ve always torn apart and hand-packed my bearings, and I have never filled that void with grease. Not saying either way is wrong or right, I was just curious (as I am getting ready to tackle that job soon).

    mrpike1973
    Posts: 1501
    #1974782

    I have a Bear trailer same system I like it but it can be hard to get the amount just right just a little over you blow a seal not enough replacing rusted bearings fast, however I’m changing to Lucas red and tacky I believe the grease I was using was not very water resistant. I do like you can pump all the old out and put new in fresh.

    tindall
    Minneapolis MN
    Posts: 1104
    #1975001

    You have a Karavan trailer like me, The grease comes from the back and pushes through the rear bearing then the void then the front bearing. When filling the extra comes out the front around the bearing. I did not grease for a year or 2 or 5 and found out the hard way how there system works on my way up north on a week long trip burned up one wheel.

    Lol, I did the same thing! Luckily it happened right near the launch and I noticed it as I was putting in.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1975021

    The one thing you want to be careful of is not blowing out the rear/inner seal.

    Timken specs say a seal of the type used for this application is good for 3 to 5 PSI.

    A hand operated grease gun can generate 7000PSI. On-line guides indicate grease gun pressure should not exceed 500PSI. Control of this pressure is done with slow lever strokes in conjunction with a pressure gage on the grease gun output.
    Not many homeowner grease guns come equipped with a gage.

    Attachments:
    1. greaseseals.png

    Mike W
    MN/Anoka/Ham lake
    Posts: 13294
    #1975024

    Wow. Good info.

    mrpike1973
    Posts: 1501
    #1975059

    I never knew that Huntin Dave thank You. Hope I can find one.

    suzuki
    Woodbury, Mn
    Posts: 18602
    #1975066

    Its a good system. Triton has been using it for years. Had it on my last two sled trailers. My new Aluma utility trailer is the same. Here’s a pic showing how it works.

    Attachments:
    1. EZ-Lube-Snowmobile-Trailer-Hubs-And-Bearings-Grease-1.jpg

    Jeff Gilberg
    Posts: 133
    #1975097

    I have a flow snowmobile trailer, I love this system. There really isn’t any way to over pressurize the seal, the grease comes thru the bearing toward the front. I do rotate the wheel when I am greasing it to evacuate as much of the old grease as possible. Yes is does use more grease, but grease is cheap and its a lot easier to do so I find myself greasing my bearings more often. Nothing wrong with pumping slow on the gun though, blowing the seal would defeat the whole idea. It always amazes me how funky the grease looks in a short time when it comes out of the hub.
    Grease often, avoid problems.

    mrpike1973
    Posts: 1501
    #1975119

    Amen Jeff, Grease is cheap

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