Hello, well I kept my bunk trailer on my G3 and bought a Lund wc 16 foot boat with a roller trailer. Any tips how far back should you back the rear rollers in? I backed to far and had way to much trouble. Then I tried just barely putting the rear rollers in and cranking it up all the way any advice it works good I just need to learn it better.
Every roller trailer I have had likes the fenders about 1/2 to3/4 submerged. That allows the rollers to center the boat.
When I had a hull as light as a WC-16, I added a cleat to my winch post, and permanently attached a 25′ line to the bow hook, and once the trailer was in, simply pulled the hull up as far as I could, tied a couple of wraps around the cleat to hold it, then attached the winch strap and finished the job.
HRG
winch-post-cleat.jpg
I can’t think of a better explanation than what was already given to you by PTC, in an earlier post.
/keep-old-trailer-or-get-new-boat-trailer/#post-1943438
I also have a 16 foot tin boat with a roller trailer.
The launch access plays a big part in how deep you back the trailer in.
Normally I back in so the back of my trailer fenders are in the water. I usually don’t go deeper as this way I can push my boat off the trailer. If there is dock access that makes things a lot easier as you can back your trailer in just as deep when pulling out the boat. I’m not big into power loading as I like to winch my boat up by hand.
Thanks all the cleat idea is awesome
I put my back rollers just in the water and drive it on, if I feel it’s not centered I let off the Gas and the boat will roll back and center itself then hit the Gas again and drive it on till I bump the stop roller. If it’s a steep landing I sometimes will leave the throttle on to hold the boat till I get the winch hook clipped on.
I own a 16’ Lund wc deluxe. What brand and model of roller trailer is it? Photo might help. I have made a few modifications to my shorelander roller trailer and it isn’t perfect but I think it is fairly easy to load and unload now. I added a small bow support pad to the very front of where the keel hangs over the trailer tongue and also the pvc pipe style guide ons that also helps with seeing the trailer when backing up an empty trailer. Next problem on my list to resolve is the smaller keel rollers towards the front of the trailer seem to get bent steel shafts after a few years so I’m going to find a bit more ridged material and replace the center steel shafts that shorelander uses.
CBMN I have the Shorelander trailer with side guide bunks. How do you like your boat only had it out once waiting for the new motor sure rode nice
I like mine a lot. Mostly used as a winter Mississippi River boat and a little use on the upper croix and small lakes in the summer. I put a new Yamaha 25 hp 4 stoke with electric start, trim and tilt, and the deluxe tiller handle on it last fall and after propping it down an inch from the factory 11 to a 10 I like it a lot.
CBMN Thank You same set up as me I just bought the new Yamaha 25 hp motor for it I don’t have tilt and trim Thanks for the advice on the prop what issues did you have? How fast did you go about 20MPH?
You might be just fine with the 11 pitch. My WC deluxe has a flat floor, storage bins, bow and transom trolling motors, two batteries and plenty of other stuff in the storage areas so I’m guessing I’m running heavier than a normal wc. I get low to mid 20’s depending on load, wind and current. The 11 pitch just took forever to get on plane with two people and now the 10 pitch hops on plane and even over revs if I’m fishing by myself but I would rather have the hole shot and get on plane fast and have to back off the throttle if needed when alone than struggling to get on plane with two people.
CBMN thanks for the info! I have 2 batteries a front trolling motor no floor that’s it so i may be fine. Again the info is great
I have a shorelander trailer, I try to leave about a 1/4 of the fender sticking out. If you get it too shallow and the ramp isn’t steep the boat will rear up and hit your prop on the ramp if you arent trimmed up enough. Not that I have any experience doing this!
I usually take mine back till the rear roller is just barely out of water
Until the first of the rear roller is under water, then drive up and hit front and chain then back to shut off the big motor.
Simply.
Until the first of the rear roller is under water, then drive up and hit front and chain then back to shut off the big motor.
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X2. Exactly what I do too.
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