Tiller boat question

Guys,

I had the chance to go to the Northwest Sports Show last week. Fun time and got to sit in some new tiller boats and dream. However, a new boat is likely not in the cards for me so probably more realistic to focus on a used boat.

Here’s what I’m researching: A 17 or 18 foot tiller boat, with (probably) a 90-hp 4-stroke, new enough to have the wider beam. Looking at the Crestliner Pro Tiller, Lund Pro Guide or maybe Alumacraft. If I target a used model in either of those brands, what’s the ‘oldest’ year back I should go that would still have most of the newer features (wider beam, usually a 4 stroke motor, etc.). I’ve been trying to research but haven’t come up with a good resource. Thanks for any tips. Feel free to PM me, too.

A wider beam is not always a good thing, the added space can be nice but it can be a very rough ride if the MFGR did not add deadrise to compensate for the wider beam. Just another thing to possible complicate your equation…

Attachments:

1. 

   deadrise.png
   

I would look for a 17′ Alumacraft Navigator 2003 with a 2007 75 hp Yamaha 4 stroke on it. 95″ beam.

Appreciate the comments, guys. I hadn’t thought of the deadrise thing. Is there a good rule of thumb on the deadrise, Mark?

Think you are going to find many wide boats a rough ride in the waves. Always said if mille lacs or someplace simular was my main waters my boat would of been gone long ago. Another issue you will find with big tillers is they are a very wet ride. No boat is perfect for everything. These are just some of the trade offs of a very wide tiller. On the plus side there is a ton of usable space. fantastic boat for trolling. Can run some very shallow water. Sure enjoy the heck out of mine and currently looking for that wide of boat in a big jon.

shockers,
Something else to consider is which side of the boat do you envision yourself fishing out of? If you stay in your tiller-drivers seat, a wide-beam boat puts the port side waaaaay out there,,,,,,,

HRG

shockers wrote:

Appreciate the comments, guys. I hadn’t thought of the deadrise thing. Is there a good rule of thumb on the deadrise, Mark?

I think this video will help to explain it. There are a lotto factors. Typically you do not hear inland lake boat dealers talk about deadrise. My guess as to why is that the vast majority of inland boat Mfgrs don’t talk about it is because most boats are sold for “recreation” and stability outweighs ride.
In the pic attached, the boat is a Duckworth, theses are typically a bit flatter in design for river fishing, yet very comparable to a wide transom. It may be worth while to get a digital protractor and check some of the models as I doubt you will find it in print except for transom only. One thing to keep in mind with deadrise is its not the transom that is cutting the wave it is the forward measurements so transom DR is not as crucial but its typically what is given by the MFGR.
A good video to explain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cufv3B02IiA

Attachments:

1. 

   DR.png
   

Stay new enough to have EFI on your 4 stroke. Suzuki added that in the late 90’s, Honda wasn’t until 2009… all the other brands are in between.

Also, it may be helpful to look at used boats without wooden transoms since they can rot out and it’s a very expensive repair. Although most of the non-wood transom options are going to be fiberglass boats made after 2005. I preferred fiberglass tiller boats myself, a little smoother/drier ride.

I honestly hadn’t thought much of the deadrise stuff, so gonna take a look at that. And yeah, thanks for the info FryDog. That’s what I’m sorta looking for. As in, if you’re gonna go Crestliner/Lund/Alumacraft in 17-18 foot, make sure and get this year or newer on the boat, and this year or newer on the 4-stroke motor. That at least helps me narrow my search a bit.

And good point Hot Runr about the side you fish out of (yes, port, yes I sit in the tiller seat). I run a 16-foot Crestliner Angler now and it’s pretty convenient for that.

I have a alumacraft tp 17.5 tiller , it’s wide ,quite a bit of room . Before that had a 1660 Pro v Tiller, wish I still had it, it was just a easy boat to control . But you have to remember a high side boat gets pushed around in the wind more so than a lower sided one. DK.

mark-bruzek wrote:

A wider beam is not always a good thing, the added space can be nice but it can be a very rough ride if the MFGR did not add deadrise to compensate for the wider beam. Just another thing to possible complicate your equation…

Yup. This is what made the 90s crestliners a rough ride. They were wider than other boats but they had a shallow deadrise

Jonesy wrote:

This is what made the 90s crestliners a rough ride.

?? Don’t know about that. The phantoms nordics and pro ams I’ve ridden in were pretty nice! Way better than the 90s alumacrafts. Those are freaking saucers up front

Budget?

Are you limited to aluminum boats? Few years ago I bought a 2008 Tuffy 1760 tiller with 75 Yamaha 4 stroke. Came with some electronics and an 80lb Terrova for about 16k. Before that I had a 2001 16′ Alumacraft Navigator.

The Navigator did a lot for me and handled some pretty good size water on LOTW, but man this Tuffy is in a whole different class in dry smooth ride, stability at rest in big water, and boat control in wind. At 85 inches wide it isn’t overly wide, but due to layout has lots of room. Seems drastically wider on the interior than my 82″ Navigator did.

In 2006 the deep V Tuffys changed their interior layout and went to full composite materials. No wood to rot. They aren’t easy to find but I sure appreciate a lot of what this glass rig can do vs aluminum.

Just something to consider, and if you start looking at Warrior, Skeeter, Yar Craft, etc, it certainly opens up options.

Tucker

The whole’rough ride’ thing for me is not a big deal because I fish metro lakes and even out of town I am on stuff 2000 acres or less-so the ride to a spot(s) is a small part of the overall trip-my bowmount works alot harder than the gas motor (FYI i’m looking at a G3)
Good Luck

The “ride thing” may or may not be a big deal to any given owner but if it is to you then glass is a better option. The other thing about glass which is a big thing to a lot of people is a boat’s ability to track while trolling. Frustrating for me personally was my first aluminum tiller that slid sideways when I was trying to troll along a certain depth, shoreline, etc when the wind blew. Went to glass and it stayed right on course.

These are all personal preference things… but for me personally when it came to smooth ride, drier ride, tracking when trolling in a straight line, and a transom/floor that wouldn’t rot – I was a fiberglass tiller guy all the way. Several good brands out there that do this in a 17-18 foot version… I personally would be in a Backtroller, Yar-craft, Warrior, Tuffy today hands down.

I’m a glass guy too! Granted I don’t have a 17 or an 18 footer, My ride is a lot drier than a lot of consuls I’ve been in. Just remember you are in the back of the boat, where the wind has had a chance to catch the water. My Tuffy throws the water away, up front which helps a lot. There’ almost enough room to have a square dance in it too. What ever you do be sure to have enough motor for the boat.

nhamm wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Black98TransAm wrote:</div>
This is what made the 90s crestliners a rough ride.

?? Don’t know about that. The phantoms nordics and pro ams I’ve ridden in were pretty nice! Way better than the 90s alumacrafts. Those are freaking saucers up front

Guess I should have specified. I’m referring to fish hawks, sport fish, etc. It’s what started the name wetliner.

I’ve had a 96 dominator 165 and a 98 tournament pro 170. Personally I feel both of those boats outperform their length but yeah got wet in both of them also

Stop do your self a favor and look into warrior boats