I would certainly want to check the balance of that trailer and make sure it is not very front heavy or light. That doesn’t look like a corrosion-related failure to me at least from what’s visible in the picture, it looks like metal fatigue caused by stress.
Other places where failures happen:
– On older tilt bed trailers, the pivot point can break or be “guillotined” off causing the trailer tongue to separate from the rest of the trailer. The bolt can break, but also the metal can tear where the bolt goes through.
I have actually had this happen to me, but luckily the bolt broke upon pulling the empty trailer out after launching. On the road had the failure happened it would have been very, very bad.
– Bolts holding the axle to the leaf spring or the leaf spring to the bracket. Again, failure would be very, very bad.
– Inspect the trailer for breaks at welds and at bend points where the metal was stressed during production. I had a trailer that broke at both points where the Y of the trailer went back to form the bed. The metal members there were bent to form this corner and apparently that was a stress point that eventually failed on both sides and had to be reinforced with a welded on gusset plate. One failure happened on the way back from Canada. Luckily we had a cordless drill with and were able to drill the steel and bolt the trailer frame back together well enough to limp home.
The biggest thing I’ve seen is that dealers and OEMs these days are packaging trailers that are WAY undersized for the real-world weight of the boats they are carrying in order to lowball the price. With the HUGE amount of weight that guys are adding to boats AFTER purchase these days, the trailer should only be decided on after rigging, not as part of some “package” that never gets thought about even though the owner specs max HP, 7 batteries, a 4 stoke 15 HP kicker, a front and rear trolling motor, anchor poles, built in cooler, etc, etc, etc… Not hard at all to add over a ton a weight to a boat these days.
Grouse