long range gun ?

  • john_steinhauer
    p4
    Posts: 2998
    #210045

    Im not much of a gun guy other than my shotguns for pheasants i want to get into long range yote hunting looks fun i have looked at a few guns that i like one is a savage 22-250 bolt action with a long steal barrel cant remember what mod it was but i really didnt know anything about the acue trigger thoughts on them and my other thought was a howa in the same chamber or any other inputs on a long range gun i wouldnt mind deer hunting with it but mainly want to shoot yotes and play at the range thanks guys

    tom_gursky
    Michigan's Upper Peninsula(Iron Mountain)
    Posts: 4751
    #69648

    My favorite long range gun is unorthodox to many, but it kills everything from Coyotes to Elk with the right bullet.
    .280AI Rem LSS,came from the factory with a 24″ crowned, fluted match bbl…now has a Leupold 4.5X14. Its the .280 Anniversary Model with an X-10 trigger.
    The target is a 200yd 3 shot group with 140gr Nosler Accubonds…my deer load. It shoots 7MM 110, 120, 140 and 160gr bullet loadss all under 1/2″ MOA.
    The .280(for the hand loader) has the least recoil for its potential…like a .270 on steroids.

    SKarlberg
    Posts: 24
    #69663

    22-250 is a nice round, but look at the .204. Most of the serios coyote hunter I hunt with shot .204’s. With a 32 grain bullet is shoot over 4000 FPS. Requires a min. lead on running game. Also, very little pelt damage. Look at the Savage Model 12 BTCSS Thumbhole. I have one and it shoot great with factory ammo.

    norseman
    FAIRMONT MN
    Posts: 559
    #69667

    .243 winchester!

    john_steinhauer
    p4
    Posts: 2998
    #69673

    I see i got a few replies thanks guys going to check into them a lil more my friend has a 243 and my dad has a 28o whats the range on the 2o4 ?

    riveratt
    Central Wisconsin US-of-A
    Posts: 1464
    #69708

    My pick would be the .243 or the .257 Roberts. We have both and I can tell you either one is more capable than myself. I have taken game at and beyond 300 yards with each one.

    wade
    Cottage Grove, MN
    Posts: 1737
    #69789

    I would vote for a .243 or 22-250 for yotes

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13663
    #70280

    I did a lot of research this last winter when I felt it was time to replace my worn out Savage 22-250. I do a lot of shooting in the 200 to 500 yards and practice up to 800 yards. So not only was I looking for a quality gun when outfitting a client, but also for a fun gun to shoot long range and the occasional trip for P-dogs out west. After careful consideration of multiple calibers, I stuck with the 22-250 for a couple of reasons.
    1. Ballistics
    2. Drift
    3. Available bullets for hand-loading
    4. Flexibility in different gr bullets for different applications
    5. Barrel length and twist rate options for different manufactures of rifles I was considering.
    The best “out-of-the-box” ratings went to HOWA for which rifle I bought. I selected the Howa Thumbhole Laminate Sporter in stainless. It features a 1:14 twist, 22” barrel, and weighs 7.6 pounds. For field applications, it is an easy tool to use.

    Now that it is broken in, I couldn’t be any happier with my selection. I matched it with a Burris XTR tactical scope, mount, rings, and a Harris bipod. It is zeroed at 250yrds with Barnes TSX loaded in a Remington case. Bench shooting, I am grouping about ½ MOA at 250.
    Here is a link to a post I did with target pics on the Howa

    http://www.idohunting.com/forum/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/633649/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/186/fpart/1

    As for any firearm, if you are looking to have the best performance….it all starts with the break-in procedure. I am a hard core believer in this. Below is the procedures from Howa. This is exactly the same as I do for any manufacture.

    BREAK-IN PROCEDURE FOR GUN BARRELS USING JACKETED BULLETS
    For the first ten shots we recommend using jacketed bullets with a nitro powder load (Most Factory Ammo).
    Clean the oil out of the barrel before each shot using a simple window cleaner (like Windex®) which will soak
    the oil out of the pores. After firing each cartridge, use a good copper cleaner (one with ammonia) to remove
    the copper fouling from the barrel. We do not recommend anything with an abrasive in it since you are
    trying to seal the barrel, not keep it agitated.
    After cleaning with bore cleaner, clean again with window cleaner after each shot. Use window cleaner
    because many bore cleaners use a petroleum base which you want to remove before firing the next shot.
    This will keep the carbon from building up in the barrel (oil left in the pores, when burned, turns to carbon).
    To keep the temperature cool in the barrel, wait at least 5 minutes between break-in shots. The barrel must
    remain cool during the break-in procedure. If the barrel is allowed to heat up during the break-in, it will
    destroy the steel’s ability to develop a home registration point, or memory. It will have a tendency to make
    the barrel “walk” when it heats up in the future. We have all seen barrels that, as they heat up, start to shoot
    high and then “walk” to the right. This was caused by improperly breaking in the barrel (generally by sitting
    at a bench rest and shooting 20 rounds in 5 minutes or so). If you take a little time in the beginning and do it
    right, you will be much more pleased with the barrel in the future.
    Look into the end of the barrel after firing a shot, and you will see a light copper-colored wash in the barrel.
    Remove this before firing the next shot. Somewhere during the procedure, around shot 6 or 7, it will be
    obvious that the copper color is no longer appearing in the barrel. Continue the window cleaner and bore
    cleaner applications through shot 10.
    Following the initial ten shots, you then may shoot 2 rounds, cleaning between each pair of shots, for the
    next 10 shots. This is simply insuring that the burnishing process has been completed.
    In theory, you are closing the pores of the barrel metal that have been opened and exposed through the
    cutting and hand lapping procedures.
    BREAK-IN PROCEDURE FOR BARRELS USING LEAD BULLETS
    The same shooting-cleaning process may be used when firing lead bullets and black powder with this
    exception: shoot 2 cartridges, then clean for the first 30 rounds. Naturally, you will use a cleaner appropriate
    for black powder. You can also use harder lead if available to accelerate the break in. This will accomplish the
    same as the jacketed bullets.
    It may take 80 to 100 rounds to break in with lead. That is why we recommend using jacketed bullets when
    possible. After this procedure, your barrel’s interior surface will be sealed and should shoot cleaner and
    develop less fouling for the rest of its shooting life.

    life1978
    Eau Claire , WI
    Posts: 2790
    #70494

    I agree with Randy there. Great info.

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