See thru mounts…

Stillakid2’s previous post got me thinking …I assume that see-thru-mounts are less accurate than mounts closer to the barrel correct? I have see thru on my 30.06 and have been passing on the 200 yard shots that presented themselves this past year due to not being confident on that long of a shot while my 3 X 9 wideangle Redfield scope is mounted on see thru rings. I am on at 100 yards but wonder if I switch mounts if I will be more confident in those 200-250 yard shots? Thanks! RR

Absolutely… The “cheek weld” needed for long range accuracy is difficult to accomplish when your scope is mounted that high.
See through mounts are a throw back to the very early days of acceptance of telescopic sights. The technology did not afford infinite parallax as todays better made scopes offer.
Get a set of bases that are as low as will safely clear the front bell of your scope. The close shots can be accomplished by using the low setting on your variable w/o any problems.
I have two Deer/Elk hunting rifles (not that I wouldn’t like to afford more )… A Rem LSS in .280 Rem with a 4.5X14X42 for open/long range hunting. A Rem Model 7 in 7mm08 with a 1.75X6X40 for heavier cover like the U.P. and northern WI and Minn offers.
For tracking Bear/Bear hunting a Mod 94 Win lever in .356 Win…it has a 4X Weaver. I have accurately shot Bear under 10yds with the 4X. No iron sights needed…

Point of impact is already taking into consideration the parabolic curve if zeroed at 100 yards. On typical high power rifles such as a .270, .308 and 30-06 if you are an inch and a half high at 100 yards, you will be right on at 200 yards. The higher mounts should not matter as you are already compensating for them by zeroing at 100 yards with them.
If anyone disagrees, please correct me….

First off, what are you shooting? Federal and Winchester have charts for each of their loads that you can see and utilize based on whatever yardage you choose to zero at. Typically, most common calibres if you zero 1.5″ above the bullseye at 100 yards, you will be close to dead on at 200, and maybe 3″ low at 300.

Bullets go through a parabolic curve when fired. The spinning of the bullet makes them rise as they go down range, and when forces of gravity overtake the velocity, they drop. The drop is predictable and repeatable. Here is a little tip that will help when getting guns zeroed for the first time…when you zero at 25 yards, you will be darned close at 100 as the bullet is on the rise at 25 and the drop at 100. Fine tune at 100 and you are good to go for 200, etc.

Whoever would have thought I would remember all that from sniper school?

I do not know for sure, but I wouldn’t think paralax would change your POI at 200. The bullet is going to do what a bullet does. I would think paralax would have a more pronounced impact at less than 100 yards. But don’t quote me on that..

Chris,

For a typical round where does the transition happen between rise and fall?

Send me a PM if this is a thread jack.

Thanks
Chris

It’s all relative to the “Zero” of the rifle and the distance being shot. We shooters tend to draw the line around that 200 yard mark. If we zero and inch and a half high at 100 yards, the drop of the parabolic curve on a standard calibre rifle is after that 100 yard mark. Higher velocity rounds go beyond that.
A blanket statement on what that curve is isn’t possible because it is different for each calibre. I will dig up some info…

Here is a great look at what I am talking about. The information comes from the Federal Ammo Website. You can pick your calibre and bullet type and see the curves, energy down range and velocities. This is for the .270.