Terrova 80lb 24 v motor issue??

  • buschman
    Pool 2
    Posts: 1760
    #2148954

    Hi guys, I have an odd issue. Just curious if anyone else has had this happen.

    My Terrova is having an issue. Everything works beside the prop drive. It still wants to turn on and work for a little bit but then will just stop and not spin the prop at other times. I am assuming I have a big issue and corrosion in the motor causing this to not work. I check all the wiring in the head and all looks good. I removed the propeller and checked that out with no concerns. I am getting power to the unit and all other functions work beside the propeller not wanting to engage in drive.

    Any thoughts or ideas on what else I can check. Also, if I have to bring it in to get repaired do you all have any advise on where to go? I live in Cottage Grove.

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6687
    #2148966

    Next step in diagnosis is do you have power going to the motor…i.e. down the shaft.

    Remove head. Locate wires running down shaft. Check voltage when prop should be spinning. If no voltage, then the control board has gone bad.
    Easy replacement.
    I did this on my v2.

    Had similar symptoms. Motor would spin and quit. Could sometimes get it to spin if I started rotating prop by hand. Started infrequent and increased to the point of dead.

    Erik Swenson
    Posts: 425
    #2148967

    Sorry, buschman.

    Sounds like the armature may need cleaning or replacement. How old is your Terrova? Eventually, they lose seal and let some water in the housing or just plain wear out from use.

    Several on here and me included will tell you to take it to FishLectronics in Fridley/Columbia Heights.

    buschman
    Pool 2
    Posts: 1760
    #2148975

    Thanks guys! I bought this motor last year but was used. It was not used much but think it is 5 years old and in great shape.

    I will try the advise above. I will check voltage first and them move to the armature.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #2148997

    In order from lowest cost to increased cost;
    (A) brushes
    (B) brushes plus clean up commutator on armature
    (C) brushes plus replace armature

    Any time one opens the motor, all seals and o-rings should be replaced.

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6687
    #2149017

    I replaced armature and brushes before I found out it was just the control board.

    Simple voltmeter can save you a few $ from throwing parts at it. Proceed with diagnostic

    Erik Swenson
    Posts: 425
    #2149022

    I replaced armature and brushes before I found out it was just the control board.

    Simple voltmeter can save you a few $ from throwing parts at it. Proceed with diagnostic

    100% agree

    bzzsaw
    Hudson, Wi
    Posts: 3480
    #2149027

    Hey Bushman,
    Sorry about your TM. I’ve also had good luck working with the Motor Clinic in Bloomington if you need to bring it in. Might be closer to you than Fridley.

    JoeMX1825
    MN
    Posts: 17850
    #2149028

    I suspect the rubber seals have failed and you get water inside the head unit…

    buschman
    Pool 2
    Posts: 1760
    #2149564

    Well, I am back up and running!! I ordered a new armature, seals and brushes on Tuesday and they arrived yesterday. 110.00 total and was shocked it arrived to me in two days from SC.

    I installed all the new parts and we are good to go!!

    Thank you guys!!!

    ptc
    Apple Valley/Isle, MN
    Posts: 614
    #2149615

    I might have good news for you. I had a similar problem and figured out it was a setting I had made on the remote. Had something to do with spotlock and auto pilot. I googled it found the answer and changed the setting and it has worked perfectly.

    I can’t remember the setting. But google may be your friend. Good luck

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