Table Refinish

  • Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #2109436

    I need to refinish the top of our dining room table (the FW has mentioned it more times than I can count). It’s solid oak, and we have kids, so I need it to be durable. What’s a go-to finish? I realize that spraying would be best, but that’s not going to happen, so it’ll be brushed on.

    Thanks!

    buckybadger
    Upper Midwest
    Posts: 8395
    #2109455

    There are quite a few ways to skin this cat. If this isn’t a table that’s worth 10s of thousands of dollars and is just being used as a standard kitchen table with kids, I’d take the steps below.

    1. Sand down your top. Start with rougher paper and then work your way into a fine grit for a smooth surface.

    2. Thoroughly clean the area. Wipe everything down with a slightly damp cloth multiple times. Let it dry.

    3. Apply a wood conditioner. Follow the steps listed on the bottle.

    4. Apply a coat of stain and let it sit for 2 full days despite what the can of stain may say for a shorter drying time. If the grain raises or things seem rough, do a light sanding. Add another coat of stain and let it dry.

    5. Apply urethane (I prefer Arm-R-Seal for something with this much use). Follow the directions. I would use a minimum of 3 separate coats with a light sanding in between considering it’s a table top.

    ***I’m not a furniture expert, this is just what I’d do***

    Deuces
    Posts: 5270
    #2109485

    What color is it currently?

    Oil vs water depending on color imo.

    I have some commercial grade floor finish I’ve used on countertops you could have.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #2109498

    What color is it currently?

    Like a golden oak–typical ’90s finish. Whatever I use, it’ll be oil-based.

    I should mention that I have worked in a custom cabinet shop, so this isn’t new to me. It’s just been a long time, and I don’t have access to a TimeSaver sander, sprayer, and booth anymore. )

    duh queen
    Posts: 547
    #2109524

    I’ve used a 2 part epoxy on my maple countertops. It wears like iron, but is a bit pricey.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #2109544

    I’ve used a 2 part epoxy on my maple countertops.

    Yeah, that’s a bit excessive for this application.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #2149456

    I finally got around to this task, and thank you @buckybadger for the Arm-R-Seal recommendation.

    I came at it with a random orbit sander (80-grit, 120-grit), followed by a finishing sander (120-grit, 150-grit), followed by hand sanding (150-grit). Cleaned it up with compressed air, applied a sealer, then stained. I put on 4 coats of satin Arm-R-Seal using the wipe-on method and gave it a light 400-grit sanding between coats (followed by a tack-cloth wipe-down).

    It turn out awesome! The table is in the neighborhood of 30 years old but now looks as good or better than new.

    I’ll get a pic, but it’s currently in the basement till the Floor Whisperer refinishes our floors next week (not tackling that job myself). wink

    3rdtryguy
    Central Mn
    Posts: 1529
    #2149671

    May be too simple but try Howard’s Furniture Restorer.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #2149742

    May be too simple but try Howard’s Furniture Restorer.

    Well, the project is done, and I literally had quarter-sized spots of raw wood where the finish had chipped off, so…

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