I’m going to install a sump pump in our cabin (basket is already there). I am leaning toward one with a battery back up. Also don’t have a clue what to look for as far as brand or any other features. I’d appreciate any input.
Zoeller and Wayne are two names that have been around for a LONG time. Generally, a 1/2hp is plenty. If we get a home where we see more water than normal in the footing areas we add the larger crock and up to the 1hp.
Make sure you have a quality check valve on the discharge. This will prevent having water in the line back flow to the crock when it’s done cycling.
I put in a Zoeller pump with an auxiliary battery backup about 3-4 years ago. I think my main pump is 3/4 hp. We live in an area with very active sumps, and I wanted something that would bring me peace of mind.
Install was easy. The main pump works really well and is very quiet. I test my battery auxiliary each spring and then make sure it runs a few cycles per month to make sure it is working. The auxiliary runs off of a 12v deep cycle battery that is hooked up to a charger/maintainer and also includes power loss and high water alarms.
The first year I had it, the auxiliary pump froze up on me for some reason. I contacted Zoeller, and after some troubleshooting, they replaced the battery pump under warranty. It’s been working fine since, but I glad that I tested it.
Here’s a video I shot of water pouring into my sump pit after we got a 10″ deluge a few summers ago. The main Zoeller pump was running nearly constantly for several days, and it had no issues (though I was really nervous). I was on high alert for the high water alarm, but it never went off.
Make sure you properly plumb the discharge pipe to avoid winter freeze up issues.
Make sure you properly plumb the discharge pipe to avoid winter freeze up issues.
EPG, could you elaborate? I have been toying with the idea of rerouting my discharge, but I am nervous about it freezing.
Simple solution to freezing is to make sure the discharge pipe drains out after the pump shuts down. A simple 1/4″ drain hole just above the check valve will allow the pipe to drain back into the sump basket. Obviously the check valve and drain need to be within the sump basket.
How active is the sump? Does it actually fill? My last house had a sump that if the sky even looked like it may rain it would fill and run constantly. Had a couple power outages and floods that made me start thinking of a better solution. Tried a backup battery backup system and the pump just couldn’t keep up. Started investigating around the house during storms and found an area that wasn’t sloped properly and a long enough downspout for the gutters was not possible. Instead of regrading the yard which would have disturbed the neighbors yard as well as a few mature trees I decided to install an underground drain system that daylighted on the other side of the hill. Spent a couple weeks and a couple hundred dollars trenching and plumbing. Since then the sump has remained been completely dry including times of major storms.
Unless your water table is extremely high I would look around the place to see if there is anything noticeable regarding drainage.
Buy a good pump and a battery backup system, I’ve used Wayne but IMO the key with a sump and battery is to have the battery load tested every year and replace if it is even starting to show a reduction in capacity.
With the pump, write a date the pump was installed somewhere near the pump. Replace pump at least every 10 years again, whether it’s working or not.
For above-feezing weather, I have a discharge hose I can connect to my discharge pipe so I get the water 50 more feet away from my foundation. As a note, ONLY use a discharge hose in above-freezing weather! In below freezing weather it will freeze up and block the pump. But when possible, get the water you’re pumping as far away from the house as possible.
Grouse
Many of houses in our neck of the woods have discharges that run underground out to the curb. A lot of our curb gutters actually have algae in them.
2 summers ago, we had our streets redone, and the contractor actually plumbed a lot of those discharges directly into the storm sewers. Unfortunately, mine did not discharge to the street at the time, so mine was not included in the project, even though I requested it. 
Ralph,
You need to make sure that the line doesn’t freeze up, preventing the pump to properly discharge.
Something with an air gap as in the photo would work well.
Sump_pipes_4_17_13.jpg
Ah yes. That looks smart. Mine did freeze a few winters ago. The wife called me in a meeting to tell me that it was beeping in the basement, and I flew out of work so quickly!!!
I’m going to install a sump pump in our cabin (basket is already there). I am leaning toward one with a battery back up. Also don’t have a clue what to look for as far as brand or any other features. I’d appreciate any input.
Since this is a cabin, you should think about connecting high water alarm or auxiliary float switches/water sensors to a smart phone monitoring app for piece of mind. this spring I’ll be installing 4 water sensors, 2 high water alarms, 2 thermostats, and 1 remote temp sensor all to a monitoring system that I can access via my phone. Probably add 2 or 3 security cameras as well.
My house builder put the sump pump under a bedroom and when it was running constantly, it was impossible to sleep in that room. I’ve built somewhat of a soundproof box around it so it is less of a problem.
Thanks for the input guys.
Regarding this Randy:
Make sure you have a quality check valve on the discharge. This will prevent having water in the line back flow to the crock when it’s done cycling
Showing my ignorance, where is the check valve installed on the discharge pipe? Up near the elbow to exit the house or lower?
As far as drainage around the house…we built the place in 2003 and we have never had any water in the basement and a very very small flow into the basket after a huge rain. Our neighbors did a tear down/build and I am not convinced they will abide by the required hydrologic plan. I am installing the pump as a preventative measure.
My plumbers place them lower near the cover. If/when you replace a pump, they make for a quick disconnect of the discharge line. Sorry I’m in and out of meeting otherwise old get a picture for you
Thanks for the input guys.
Regarding this Randy:
Make sure you have a quality check valve on the discharge. This will prevent having water in the line back flow to the crock when it’s done cycling
Showing my ignorance, where is the check valve installed on the discharge pipe? Up near the elbow to exit the house or lower?
As far as drainage around the house…we built the place in 2003 and we have never had any water in the basement and a very very small flow into the basket after a huge rain. Our neighbors did a tear down/build and I am not convinced they will abide by the required hydrologic plan. I am installing the pump as a preventative measure.
How high does your pump lift? Check valves are typically installed a 2′ or greater above the top of the sump cover. They are really simple to install but can fail.
How high does your pump lift? Check valves are typically installed a 2′ or greater above the top of the sump cover. They are really simple to install but can fail.
Lift will be about 10 feet.
Simple solution to freezing is to make sure the discharge pipe drains out after the pump shuts down. A simple 1/4″ drain hole just above the check valve will allow the pipe to drain back into the sump basket. Obviously the check valve and drain need to be within the sump basket.
Bad advice there. What purpose does the check provide then.
Simple solution to freezing is to make sure the discharge pipe drains out after the pump shuts down. A simple 1/4″ drain hole just above the check valve will allow the pipe to drain back into the sump basket. Obviously the check valve and drain need to be within the sump basket.
Um, if you drill a hole above the check valve, that would allow the water in the discharge line to drain back into the pit, essentially bypassing the check valve, so why even install a check valve? Mine has a little weep hole between the pump and check valve, which is supposed to prevent the pump from air locking.
EDIT: Nailswi and I had the same thought at the same time.
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