Strikemaster Quality

Just after thanksgiving I purchased a new strikemaster auger. The auger I purchased was the 825 chipper lite. I mixed the gas with strikemaster oil at the rate of 40-1 as called for in owners manual. Last Saturday was the first time I used this auger and I think I made a huge mistake buying this auger. Here are the problems I am experiencing. After gassing and following the owners manual her is what happened.
Primed fuel bulb 5-8 times per instructions let warm for 1-2 minutes hit throttle bogs down kills restart runs and idles ok.
Saturday out on lake primed 5-8 times let warm up drill 4 holes motor kills 20-25 pulls to restart have to feather throttle or motor kills. Today took in to D-Rock they adjust high and low jets say should be good to drive home work on my 1984 mag three and get that fired up, pull out the new strikemaster go through start procedure and after about 30 pulls it fires and starts runs for 15 seconds at idle kills does this 3 more times, back to D-Rock we go auger is now checked in for service under warranty. This auger will also not cut you really have to lean it to get ito cut 5-6 inches of ice needless to say I am not happy and you can’t get ahold of anybody at Strikemaster!

I feel your pain, I sold my SM gas auger a few years ago and run an Ion, just pull the trigger and drill a hole…

5-8 times is a lot primer pushes. You are probably flooding it. My sequence, push in Blue pressure relief button (repeat for each pull of recoil, should only be 3-4) make sure on/off switch is in the on position, move choke lever to start position, press primer button until i see gas move through the line (3-4 presses) pull recoil until motor fires (usually 2-3 pulls) move choke to run position and pull recoil one more time.

The solo motor is easy to flood and if you do it will take at least double the normal pulls with the choke in the run position.

JoeMX1825 wrote:

I feel your pain, I sold my SM gas auger a few years ago and run an Ion, just pull the trigger and drill a hole…

That’s funny I did the same.

On this years model they finally got smart and remover the decompression button. I prime it until feel and see gas movement and button feels hard shut choke off at first pop and pull until running maybe 2 pulls maybe 15 pulls.

I received and e-mail back from Strikemster and apparently the say that the fuel filter pickup is capable of moving around inside the tank causing fuel starvation you have to make sure the filter stays in the bottom of the tank and is not blocked by tank breather tube. Very poor design Strikemaster!

Last year, mine didn’t drill, a bad pitch in the auger out of the box. Motor works fine, but then my 1 year old lazer started spinning and would not stop after drilling. I returned the new auger and had the old one fixed. I’ve owned 5 strikemaster auger in 3 years. 3 honda lite and 2 mag. Will not buy another newer strikemaster again. But that’s just me.

I just got one this year and the thing runs like a charm. I don’t even have to prime it ever i choke it pull 3 times and it always fires up. A few days here already have been – 20 to 25 with over 12″ of ice and it cuts and runs like a charm. That suck that yours is doing that to yea i hope u get it figured out

Well her I sit just returned Minnetonka, Strikemaster headquarters, they adjusted the carb and replace the chipper bit that you really had to lean to get it to cut.
No more than walked out of their shop carrying auger upright to my truck, didn’t choke or prime about 20-25 pull before it would start, arrived home no choke no prime same thing 20-25 pulls finally starts idles about 30 second kills, one pull runs 3 seconds kills I do this 3 more times same thing I am sick of this auger, I am sick of their customer service. Are these german motors and carbs crap or what, now there are 3 junk auger companys in no specific order Strikemaster, jiffy, eskimo.

perchhead wrote:

Well her I sit just returned Minnetonka, Strikemaster headquarters, they adjusted the carb and replace the chipper bit that you really had to lean to get it to cut.
No more than walked out of their shop carrying auger upright to my truck, didn’t choke or prime about 20-25 pull before it would start, arrived home no choke no prime same thing 20-25 pulls finally starts idles about 30 second kills, one pull runs 3 seconds kills I do this 3 more times same thing I am sick of this auger, I am sick of their customer service. Are these german motors and carbs crap or what, now there are 3 junk auger companys in no specific order Strikemaster, jiffy, eskimo.

Well I’ve had my Jiffy SD60i for 3 years now and haven’t had a single problem yet! Knock on wood! Chipper blade cuts faster than a lazer mag we have too…..

This is the chipper model.

perchhead wrote:

This is the chipper model.

The Jiffy is a chipper and the SM is a Lazer and I don’t like it…

Sounds like my junk Eskimo can run holes around you and your SM and get you all wet !!! Don’t be so bitter…. just because you have a junk one, don’t condemn the whole industry…

Third year with my ION and it just works. Like the man said. Pull the trigger and drill a hole. Makes it easy to want to go out more.

Mike Bettenburg wrote:

Third year with my ION and it just works. Like the man said. Pull the trigger and drill a hole. Makes it easy to want to go out more.

Same for me. Have had absolutely zero problems with my Ion since purchasing it. Runs every time, first “pull” of the trigger. No mixing, no spilling gas in the back of the car/sled, and it drills all day for me. I haven’t been disappointed in it one bit.

Take it to the store you bought it and return it. Buy an Ion. If you still have problems after trying an ION then resort back to the ‘ol hand crank models. If you still have problems then maybe it’s time to pick up a new winter sport……..Seeing as you had problems with SM, Jiffy AND Eskimo I’m not ruling out really, really bad luck or operator error

perchhead wrote:

No more than walked out of their shop carrying auger upright to my truck, didn’t choke or prime about 20-25 pull before it would start, arrived home no choke no prime same thing 20-25 pulls finally starts idles about 30 second kills, one pull runs 3 seconds kills I do this 3 more times same thing I am sick of this auger, I am sick of their customer service. Are these german motors and carbs crap or what, now there are 3 junk auger companys in no specific order Strikemaster, jiffy, eskimo.

Not trying to be a dink, but how many pulls would you expect to pull for it to start without using a choke OR primer? To me it sounds like the old adage “the problem lies between the keyboard and the chair”.
First of all, not using the choke and complaining about it taking 20 to 25 pulls to start and then when it does start it shuts off, what do you expect? A cold engine is not going to run well until it is warmed up.
A few pieces of info, do you prime the bulb that many times you end up flooding it. When first starting a cold engine and it pops/fires, then move the choke off of “start”. When it does start feather the choke on and off and see how the motor reacts. Once it seems like it will stay running leave the choke off.
One thing to check is to make sure the gas tank vent tube is almost up into the filler neck of the gas tank. If its lower than the level of the gas in the tank it may not run real well in my experience.

I have taken several calls about this, seems like it’s starving for gas and I thought, at first, try a new fuel line, maybe something got clogged in there. Maybe the tanks are coming dirty…? I don’t know, I’m happy with what I have and I hope you get it figured out!

One thing everyone needs to keep in mind is that Strikemaster or any other auger manufacture has Nothing to do with building or tuning the motors. It’s the EPA and Pollution control agency that sets the test and emissions standards so they are tested at room temp. not at the temps where they will be used at. They can also NOT modify the motors in any way like change the jetting or the fuel pickup assembly. Almost every time someone has come to me with an issue on an auger, be it a Strikemaster, jiffy, Eskimo. it can be traced back to either operator error or something that has happened after the unit was shipped from the manufacturer. Like shipped UPS and tossed around or dropped and the blade pitch changed. using old fuel. over priming. or not the correct Fuel/Oil mix. I’m not saying that a bad unit never goes out. they do.
something everyone should learn how to do is tune your auger. screws move and most of the issues with performance can be solved with the simple turn of a screwdriver. Every auger I have ever owned has been re-tuned as soon as I get it.

Ok here goes I have had Strikemaster and Jiffy the rib breaker. My problem is strikemaster and this auger, it’s new, the gas is fresh bought last Friday, didn’t want warm up and from get go in garage, had to let warm up for a full 2 minutes, then feather throttle, then it smoothed out.
Last Saturday went fishing drilled first 4 holes motor killed and according to to D-Rock and Strikemaster themselves you don’t have to choke to start if motor is warmed up.
Yesterday went to garage, primed and choked motor pulled the motor numerous times until it popped, turned choke off per instructions and pulled 6 more times before it started let warm up an had to ease into throttle or it bogs down.
The vent tube is in the top of the tank, when I carry this auger I hold it upright so not to gas into vent tube. Strikemaster tech said it doesn’t matter if you prime 2 or 50 times the gas goes through a bypass tube to the tank, they say to prime until you get prime button to feel firm or gas goes through the line, so I usually will 2-3 presses and it is hard. So I guess if it is me it because I have been following the directions from the owners manual and what the techs have told me to do plus trying other things. This auger is back at Strikemaster and they are going through it looking for vacuum leaks, blockages, restrictions etc. Sorry about Eskimo auger never had one just their houses and that lasted one year.

I own a Lazer Lite myself (same motor), and as I’m sure customer service has relayed to you, it’s a different motor with slightly different starting procedures. Mine’s only accompanied me on one trip, and so far, very successful operation.

For the benefit of all, check out these reference materials and some of the improvements to this motor.

Chipper Lite/Lazer Lite Starting Procedure

Here at StrikeMaster Ice Augers, we are always looking for ways to improve and simplify your fishing experience. Our new Chipper Lite and Lazer Lite models is no exception. The Chipper Lite and Lazer Lite is equipped with the latest 2 cycle technology from Solo Motors. The Solo 111 allows easy start up to get you fishing faster.

The new Solo 111 engine brings forth many refined technical advances to maximize the operator’s efforts. These vast improvements are aimed to minimize start up time during cold weather operation. Solo has refined the startup procedure and understanding these changes will help the unfamiliar operator avoid frustration during startup.

These improvements include;
-New and Improved carburetor for better fuel efficiency
-A “No Flood” bypass primer
-Maximum efficiency choke baffle
-Automatic decompression system
-Solo’s “Easy-Start” spring assist recoil assembly

The carburetor on the new Solo 111 boasts various improvements that will allow more holes per tank. Allowing the operator to spend more time drilling between fill ups.

The “No Flood” bypass primer will not flood the engine no matter how many times you prime it. Simply pump the primer until the bulb is 90% full of fuel. (There will always be a small air bubble at the top of the primer)This should require only a few pumps. Once the bulb, any excess fuel is routed back into the fuel tank. This makes flooding the carburetor during priming impossible.
The Maximum efficiency choke baffle reduces the number of pulls need to start up in cold conditions. The coke baffle has a minimal air bypass hole to compensate for cold weather air density. This increases the effectiveness of the choke and reduces the number of pulls during start up. However, you can easily flood the engine if you do not follow the directions. Be sure to reposition the lever the “RUN” position as soon as the engine fires the first time.

Elimination of the decompression valve increases the cylinder pressure during startup. This will allow more fuel to be drawn into the combustion chamber for faster startup with fewer pulls.
The Recoil/starter assembly is Solo’s “Easy-Start” continuous engagement recoil system that ensures a “no-slip” grip between the recoil and the fly wheel. This eliminates any dry pulls which will reduce the risk of potentially damaging your equipment and reduce hand and arm fatigue.
Please follow these simple start up procedures for fast and effective startup.
1. Turn kill switch to the “ON” position
2. Pump the primer bulb until it is full of fuel
3. Move the choke lever to the “START” position
4. SLOWLY pull recoil handle out until you feel it engage the flywheel
5. Pull the recoil with an assertive, short pull
6. Pull the recoil until the first audible “fire” of the engine is heard(Should be 2-4 pulls)
7. Quickly move the choke lever to the “RUN” position
8. If the engine dies, pull over 1-2 more times.
Light pressure on the throttle lever after startup may be needed in extremely cold conditions to raise the engine RPMs to warm up the motor.

Joel Nelson wrote:

I own a Lazer Lite myself (same motor), and as I’m sure customer service has relayed to you, it’s a different motor with slightly different starting procedures. Mine’s only accompanied me on one trip, and so far, very successful operation.

For the benefit of all, check out these reference materials and some of the improvements to this motor.

Chipper Lite/Lazer Lite Starting Procedure

Here at StrikeMaster Ice Augers, we are always looking for ways to improve and simplify your fishing experience. Our new Chipper Lite and Lazer Lite models is no exception. The Chipper Lite and Lazer Lite is equipped with the latest 2 cycle technology from Solo Motors. The Solo 111 allows easy start up to get you fishing faster.

The new Solo 111 engine brings forth many refined technical advances to maximize the operator’s efforts. These vast improvements are aimed to minimize start up time during cold weather operation. Solo has refined the startup procedure and understanding these changes will help the unfamiliar operator avoid frustration during startup.

These improvements include;
-New and Improved carburetor for better fuel efficiency
-A “No Flood” bypass primer
-Maximum efficiency choke baffle
-Automatic decompression system
-Solo’s “Easy-Start” spring assist recoil assembly

The carburetor on the new Solo 111 boasts various improvements that will allow more holes per tank. Allowing the operator to spend more time drilling between fill ups.

The “No Flood” bypass primer will not flood the engine no matter how many times you prime it. Simply pump the primer until the bulb is 90% full of fuel. (There will always be a small air bubble at the top of the primer)This should require only a few pumps. Once the bulb, any excess fuel is routed back into the fuel tank. This makes flooding the carburetor during priming impossible.
The Maximum efficiency choke baffle reduces the number of pulls need to start up in cold conditions. The coke baffle has a minimal air bypass hole to compensate for cold weather air density. This increases the effectiveness of the choke and reduces the number of pulls during start up. However, you can easily flood the engine if you do not follow the directions. Be sure to reposition the lever the “RUN” position as soon as the engine fires the first time.

Elimination of the decompression valve increases the cylinder pressure during startup. This will allow more fuel to be drawn into the combustion chamber for faster startup with fewer pulls.
The Recoil/starter assembly is Solo’s “Easy-Start” continuous engagement recoil system that ensures a “no-slip” grip between the recoil and the fly wheel. This eliminates any dry pulls which will reduce the risk of potentially damaging your equipment and reduce hand and arm fatigue.
Please follow these simple start up procedures for fast and effective startup.
1. Turn kill switch to the “ON” position
2. Pump the primer bulb until it is full of fuel
3. Move the choke lever to the “START” position
4. SLOWLY pull recoil handle out until you feel it engage the flywheel
5. Pull the recoil with an assertive, short pull
6. Pull the recoil until the first audible “fire” of the engine is heard(Should be 2-4 pulls)
7. Quickly move the choke lever to the “RUN” position
8. If the engine dies, pull over 1-2 more times.
Light pressure on the throttle lever after startup may be needed in extremely cold conditions to raise the engine RPMs to warm up the motor.

The bold text IMO is the most important part. I have the same issues with my Stihl chainsaw. If I keep the choke on and continue to pull after the motor has “popped”, it is flooded and I need to leave it sit. I had this happen with my Solo one time, but never since. Having said that I will “feather” the choke once it does start as it is warming up. I will turn the choke on and then immediately off a few times during that initial 2 minute warm up just to make sure it is running smooth, etc.

I follow the exact same process as described above. I can start it in less that 10 pulls most of the time.