First off, excuse my ignorance.
The prop on my motor is pretty dinged up and I’m thinking of replacing it with stainless.
What are the main benefits, durability? Performance?
TIA for the help!
Oh, if it matters it’s a 17′ with a 115.
If you fish rock stay with alum. SS ads speed and durability but is less forgiving with a object hit.
Performance!
I would agree with Dutchboy…..if you fish rivers or rocky areas stay with aluminum. The trade-offs for performance will not outweigh replacing that prop or worse, taking out a lower unit.
Thanks gents! I’ll get the aluminum fixed up and enjoy spending the savings on other related items.
Not sure what shape your prop is in and if you have a spare but you might want to look into buying a new aluminum one as often time they are relatively reasonable.
Just food for thought.
How is the performance on your current aluminum prop? I ask because almost every 17′ boat I’ve seen with a 115-125 has benefited from a spitfire prop. The 4 blade creates better holeshot, better lower speed planing and handling, with minimal top end loss. It will be basically the same cost as buying another stock prop, and you might end up loving it.
How is the performance on your current aluminum prop? I ask because almost every 17′ boat I’ve seen with a 115-125 has benefited from a spitfire prop. The 4 blade creates better holeshot, better lower speed planing and handling, with minimal top end loss. It will be basically the same cost as buying another stock prop, and you might end up loving it.
This sounds interesting. I’m not necessarily concerned with top end speed as much as the the things you mentioned. I think I’ll go that route, thanks!
Chris, I do keep a spare in the boat but it’s probably time to “cycle” in a new one.
Knowing a little bit about your boat I think the spitfire might be a great prop for you. You will have to make sure you get the right hub kit to fit that Merc prop to your Yamaha. I am no expert on that matter but would make sure you do some research or buy the prop from someone who knows what you have and are trying to do with the prop as I think it is relatively common for guys to run Merc props on Yamahas.
Good luck Scott.
Knowing a little bit about your boat I think the spitfire might be a great prop for you. You will have to make sure you get the right hub kit to fit that Merc prop to your Yamaha. I am no expert on that matter but would make sure you do some research or buy the prop from someone who knows what you have and are trying to do with the prop as I think it is relatively common for guys to run Merc props on Yamahas.
Good luck Scott.
That’s good info! I’m kinda in the dark as far props (I know they turn!)
Thanks Chris!
Check with Ricky at Brainerd Prop he will get you set-up.
Bell, I’ve run a stainless prop since…well a long time. I’m a cat guy and I expect to hit wood every time out. I feel that it was a great day when I don’t hit something. I’ve had my prop worked on one in all those years and that was because I didn’t trim up my motor when loading.
When I know there’s wood I trim up my motor and go at idle speed. If I do hit something the motor kills. Now with rocks? All bets are off but I would expect the same to happen. I know rock is harder then wood, but I’ve never hit a rock.
Btw isn’t that what those hubs are for? To protect the motor/lower end if something is hit?
All I can say is that If I didn’t have a ss prop, most nights it would take me forever to get home. (and I get the performance benefit)
If you hit something hard enough with either prop that takes the lower unit out, you have problems. Stainless steel is the way to go for alot of reasons, first and foremost is, performance. Ask yourself this, what do you do more, hit things with your prop or run under power from spot to spot. With a 4 blade, just remember that you will not have the “bite” going in reverse that a 3 blade prop has.
Ask yourself this, what do you do more, hit things with your prop or run under power from spot to spot.
It’s a toss up! 
Ok…my top end speed I’ve gotten out of my motor is 42mph. 95% of my fishing takes place on lakes that are 2000 acres or less so I’m plenty satisfied with my point A to point B time. I would however like to plane out easier at low speeds. I pull my kids on water skies and wake boards with relative ease but a little better holeshot performance would be nice.
If you hit something hard enough with either prop that takes the lower unit out, you have problems. Stainless steel is the way to go for alot of reasons, first and foremost is, performance. Ask yourself this, what do you do more, hit things with your prop or run under power from spot to spot. With a 4 blade, just remember that you will not have the “bite” going in reverse that a 3 blade prop has.
Didn’t know that was also caused by blade count.
The amount of rake will definitely affect performance in reverse. Rake is the amount that the prop leans back. Note, this has nothing to do with pitch. Rake is added to give props better grip when trimmed up or cornering when going forward. This is done at the expense of going backwards.
Stainless is the way to go for pure speed an performance, but it sure sounds to me that planing out at lower speeds and a little more power is important to you. I am positive the spitfire will give you what you’re looking for. I have a buddy who recently put a 19p spitfire on his 115 yamaha on a 175 Navigator, and he loves it. His hole shot has improved, he doesn’t blow his prop out around corners any more, and he said his bow lift is just right now.
You can get a flo-torque hub kit for yamahas for about $40-$50.
If you paid the extra $$ to get a higher HP motor, why waste it with a Aluminum prop that will just flex & bend on throttle up? Get what you paid for with a SS prop…but if you primarily fish rocky areas, then you add risk of blowing up a lower unit…
I thought the newer props used the sacrificial hub to lower the
probability of messing up the lower unit when hitting something
and therefore making stainless a much better option.
Propman in Brainerd set me up with a
Powertech NRS 3 blade 18p on my 90 hp 4 stroke mercury.
the hole shot is way better and
my top end gained almost 3.5 mph.
The motor will hit the rev limiter if I am alone
but mostly I have someone with me and its real close to max
It handles unbelievable,
I don’t have to slow for corners as the diameter was increased.
old prop went 0 – 39 in 22 seconds
new prop went 0 – 43 in 16 seconds on same day same conditions
#1695703
I thought the newer props used the sacrificial hub to lower the
probability of messing up the lower unit when hitting something
and therefore making stainless a much better option.
That is my understanding as well.
Great information guys!
I’ve been on the fence of getting a SS prop for a few years. It always boils down to me thinking it is a want more than a need to have. The $300 – $400 bucks always has so many other places to go.
Here is how you decide, look at what the guys who’s lives and livleyhoods depend on a prop and then run what they brung.
Stainless it is then.
So if you took a 90 hp mercury 4 stroke and switched it out put a stainless on how much faster would it go? 1750 lund rebel
RE: So if you took a 90 hp mercury 4 stroke and switched it out put a stainless on how much faster would it go? 1750 lund rebel
Not an easy answer for this question. you would need to know:
E.G my previous post on a different thread:
I am looking to get a stainless steel prop for my
2011 90 hp efi four stroke mercury (1731CC)
max RPM range for this motor is 5000-6000
on my Lund 1675 impact sport.
My current prop is a 12.75 x 21P 3 blade Black Max Aluminum.
This gets me to 5600 RPM and just shy of 42 MPH GPS
with all gear and two people on board (usual load for me)
I am thinking about going to
a 13.25 x 20P 3 blade Laser II stainless
which I am thinking will get me over 5700 RPM
Questions:
will using a Stainless prop effect the RPMs all other things equal?
Suggestions:
prop size diameter or pitch others are using on a similar setup
propmann wrote:
I would go with a Powertech NRS3 18 it will perform a lot better, it will get your rpms up, better holeshot, handling, holding power in corners better bowlift and will be just as fast as your 21 pitch now if not a little faster
projections involved:
3 inch change in pitch equates to about + 600 RPM
1/2 change in prop dia equates to about – 50 RPM
cupping on the prop equates to about – 200 RPM
the Rake will probably equate to some neg impact on RPM
going from alum to stainless equate to some neg impact on RPM
Results:
the hole shot is way better and
my top end gained almost 3.5 mph.
The motor will now hit the rev limiter (6000) if I am alone
but mostly I have someone with me and its real close to max
It handles unbelievable, at fully cranked over steering
I don’t have to slow for corners as the diameter was increased.
old prop went 0 – 39 in 22 seconds
new prop went 0 – 43 in 16 seconds on same day same conditions
Note: This worked for me and would probably perform well for you,
but your boat, motor and use may be a little different.
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