Should I order the new Lund with stainless prop or wait till I get it loaded and on the water? I’m leaning toward the aluminum with the boat then do a final fit with stainless after rigging and loading as it will be used. The aluminum can then become a spare. Is there any reason to get stainless with the boat? How often does that turn out to be the best prop for the boat?
I’d attempt to work a stainless, as well as other accessories, in the purchase.
Wait.
First off, besides looking cool, what is your purpose for a stainless prop in the first place? The only reason to re-prop is for performance. If the performance of your new boat is lacking, you need to know specifically what problem(s) are you trying to fix before you start messing with props.
Secondly, most guys are hung up on stainless because it sounds tough and manly. Why have wimpy aluminum when you can have bling-bling stainless?Stainless has specific advantages and disadvantages.
Also, as Bob has noted, when you hit a rock with aluminum, the prop breaks.
Hit the same rock with stainless and the lower unit, shafts, gears, and bearings all potentially sustain massive damage. That super-hard stainless passes on all that shock and torque to the delicate lower unit so not only is the prop trashed, the lower half of the outboard is potentially trashed as well.
Grouse
If it were me I’d get it included in your purchase and be done with it. Any good dealer will be able to get you the correct prop for your application. I did that with mine and I was worried about the prop that they got me because I am at a higher altitude than what they are used to and they hit the nail on the head first try. If for some reason the prop isn’t right I would think that a good dealer would exchange it for you as well.
That super-hard stainless passes on all that shock and torque to the delicate lower unit so not only is the prop trashed, the lower half of the outboard is potentially trashed as well.
Insurance may cover it however.
I would first consider what size boat/motor this is going on, as a 14 footer with a 20 horse would see no benefit from a stainless prop. However if you are running one of the larger/higher HP models, you can benefit greatly from the advantages of stainless (less blade flexing, better hole-shot, higher speeds, improved fuel efficiency to name some potential benefits). If that is the case, I would try to work it into the deal, but work it that you want to be able to test more than 1 prop and select what works best for you and your boat’s setup.
As far as damage to your lower unit, almost all stainless props these days use/come with a plastic hub that is the sacrificial lamb so to speak. It is intended to take that shock load rather than transfer it to your lower unit. I have had 2 instances where I have hit rocks at high enough rates of speed that I would have expected damage & neither time damaged the lower unit. Both times I was able to have the stainless prop repaired for less than $100. For me the benefits outweigh any potential downside, but that’s what each person has to decide for themselves.
I decided to order the boat with the stainless prop. The up charge over aluminum wasn’t that bad and if I’m lucky (never am) maybe it will be a good performer. Once I get the rig all set up and broken in I’ll check hole shot,top speed and RPM and take it to the prop shop here. He will be able to tell me if it’s worth tweaking it or if I’m good to go. 2018 Lund Impact 1775 115 Merc fourstroke Pro XS. From my past experience I agree with Tony. Thanks for the replies.
With that boat/motor, your biggest gain is going to be bowlift (which will increase top end and handling). A stainless prop is probably the right call to gain that.
Doesn’t your dealer include a stainless prop with the boat? In any case you should consider a Spitfire X7 in 17 pitch with a flo torque 3 hub kit. If you’re buying it on your own Jaco’s Marine has the best prices on props. They are out of Tennessee.
Doesn’t your dealer include a stainless prop with the boat? In any case you should consider a Spitfire X7 in 17 pitch with a flo torque 3 hub kit. If you’re buying it on your own Jaco’s Marine has the best prices on props. They are out of Tennessee.
X2 on the Spitfire X7 prop!
Motors under 150 hp won’t see much difference in performance with a stainless prop. The motor won’t be powerful enough to flex the prop which is where the stainless shines.
Wait.
First off, besides looking cool, what is your purpose for a stainless prop in the first place? The only reason to re-prop is for performance. If the performance of your new boat is lacking, you need to know specifically what problem(s) are you trying to fix before you start messing with props.
Secondly, most guys are hung up on stainless because it sounds tough and manly. Why have wimpy aluminum when you can have bling-bling stainless?Stainless has specific advantages and disadvantages
Also, as Bob has noted, when you hit a rock with aluminum, the prop breaks.
Hit the same rock with stainless and the lower unit, shafts, gears, and bearings all potentially sustain massive damage. That super-hard stainless passes on all that shock and torque to the delicate lower unit so not only is the prop trashed, the lower half of the outboard is potentially trashed as well.Grouse
Its to late now as the deal is done but for what it’s worth I totally agree with Grouse!
I have a Yamaha F115 on a Lund Explorer 1700. The SS prop I bought is night and day difference to the Stock Alum. that came with the boat. I ran the boat a bit with the Stock 19p when I first bought it to get a feel for what Pitch I needed, for how I run my boat. I bought a Michigan wheel 18p SS and wow what a difference. The hole shot is way better, as is top speed. It also stays locked up in waves a hole and in corner a lot better, not to mention the additional bow lift. With that being said. When I take a trip to a rock area like Canada, the Stock Alum. will be on.
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