Spray Foam Insulation

Anyone have any experience with this (or similar) do it your self spray foam insulation on a perm ice house? All comments welcome.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Touch-n-Foam-200-Board-Foot-Polyurethane-2-Component-Spray-Foam-Kit-4006022200/204962748

-J.

I have used it but not on a fish house. I used it on my basement to fill my floor joist spaces, worked awesome.

I don’t understand the rating. Is it 200 square feet of coverage at R5?

So basically you could do 24 feet of 8 foot high wall to an R5 for $300? Am I understanding this right?

Is the cost really high at that level of coverage?

Grouse.

Grouse, your correct that 200sqft @ 1″ = R5 coverage and that the price is considerably more.
You get a lot more than just the R value in spray foam. You can true air seal a cavity, closed cell foam is much less prone to condensation and water absorption, and fill all the cavity without having void spaces like you will get with batt insulation.

I use a lot of DIY foam sprays when doing remodeling/retro work in homes. Same principle.
few things to consider:
Have 100% of the work space ready to go without obstruction

Make sure your kit has plenty of extra tips

If you stop for more than 5-10 seconds, you’ll most likely need to change your tip out.
Clean up can be a pain, so don’t over spray if possible.

Watch out for fast or aggressive rise type foams. The can distort windows, doors, walls…..Use a slow set if you can find it.

Foam is flammable. If your concerned about fire hazzards, buy the fire rated foam – Which is also a code requirement here when in contact with electrical wires/boxes

Here is a link to what i often use for small projects
(Tiger foam) – They have a link on the page that should lead you to the instructions. Mask and haz suit is recomended.

Tiger Foam™ Slow Rise Formula – 600 Board Foot Spray Foam Insulation Kit

I used the DOW brand Froth Pak 200 when I did my underside of my floor of a 8×16+3’v fish house.
I did question the cost difference of having someone come in or me drive it to a site where the crew was working but since it was the underside the house needed to me jacked and blocked. I never called a company to see if it was an option as I just wanted to to is on my schedule and was bust with other stuff.

I have used about 3 of these kits in my life and they are pretty easy. As Randy mentioned you need to do all prep work and if you stop spraying too long the tip will clog.

One thing I will say is spray less than you think it will need. You can always come back a re hit the spot you think is shy. 1″ really does a lot as it seals air transfer much better than any fiberglass or sheet foam product.

Pretty much what Randy says.
Make sure you keep the tanks warm prior to spraying.
Make sure you shake the tanks well prior to spraying.
I use the Dow froth pacs, and they work well.
On a larger area I would hire it out.
If your spraying a large area on a wheel house, I would call a spray foam company and see if you could bring it to their place or on a job where they were spraying. That way you may be able to save on a minimum charge.
Oh, wear gloves.

Thanks for all the info. Looks like this project will get delayed till next year. Need 75 degree temps to apply.

This stuff should work well for this fix. Re-doing ceiling in 8×16. Currently has fiberglass covered by paneling. Stuff gets condensation and there are signs of mold and mice. $300 would be well worth it.

-J.

Mat Peirce wrote:

the tanks need to be over 75…you can warm them with a small space heater or place them in a bath tub of warm water. The surface you’re insulating can be much cooler than 75

The actual air temp, the surface temp AND the liquid foam temp, ALL need to be 75 degrees to achieve full foam expansion and thus full R factor.

Not saying it can’t be done at a lower temp, but you risk not getting the full benefit.

Some mis-information given here.
Substrate can temp can be as low as 40 degrees.
Obviously not the optimum situation, but the new construction guys do it all the time, they have to.
Some Inspectors require an (hourly) temperature documentation.

https://www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/building-insulation/Files/BI%20Data%20Sheets/Resi%20and%20Commercial/BID-0112.pdf

The specs you quote are for a similar but different product. The kit sold at Home depot calls for a minimum temp of 60 degrees.
Product Overview

Touch ‘n Foam 2-Component Spray Foam expands and cures quickly to fill cavities, gaps, cracks, expansion joints and other sources of air leakage in a building envelope. Resists moisture that can lead to mold or mildew and provides increased sound and thermal insulation. Will not shrink, compress, settle or biodegrade like fiberglass or cellulose insulation. Bonds to a variety of materials, including wood, masonry, metal and drywall.

Yields 200 ft. board (16.7 cu. ft.); R-value 5.48 per inch
Class 1 fire resistance, ICC evaluation service listed, report #ESR-3052
Blend of product yield and portability (Single carton design with built-in carrying handle)
Includes anti-crossover spray foam applicator, 10 ft. hoses, 10-nozzles (5-conical, 5-fan), nitrile gloves, safety glasses, assembly wrench, O-ring lubricant, MSDS or instructions, instructional DVD
Ideal for medium-size projects, such as sealing basement sill plates/band joists
Must be applied when surface and air temperatures are above 60°F

Hey guys I know this is an old forum but I just wanted to update for anyone browsing on the internet, the diy froth packs are not really the best idea. One of the biggest factors in spray foam insulation is temperatures. When I spray Foam I am constantly checking ambient air along with substrate temp and product when stored in my 55 gal drums then we regulate temp in our pumps and also in the hose to the gun itself. Each component is heated individually and if temps and pressure (which is another huge factor) get off the product will seem fine. A couple years down the road it will have a very bad odor, the only way to get rid of it is to tear all the foam out and redo in short. Long story short call a local spray foam contractor because we are set up with safety shut offs and regulators that menards kits don’t have. A local contractor will care a lot more about a job well done vs menards or any big box that’s just trying to make a buck. Also a lot of the time I’m cheaper than the diy kits…