suggested line size

  • gary_wellman
    South Metro
    Posts: 6057
    #1320620

    For working top water baits for smallies?
    6?
    8?
    10?

    Do you want a stiffer line for dog-walking?

    James Holst
    Keymaster
    SE Minnesota
    Posts: 18926
    #566091

    For fishing chuggers and pop r’s 6# is too light in my opinion. I like a thin diameter 10 Lb or an 8.

    10 Lb sensation works very well. So does 8# suffix elite.

    Both these lines work well for smallies around limited cover.

    tom_gursky
    Michigan's Upper Peninsula(Iron Mountain)
    Posts: 4751
    #566107

    Spinning tackle ES68MXF…8-10lb Suffix Siege or Pro Line

    Bait caster TBC70MF…20# Power Pro..10-12# Flouro leader

    *except spring on Chequamegon bay…the spin rig just cannot control those Big Smallies(lots of logs)…you may laugh…but judge me after you’ve had a couple of these brutes tear your up!

    sliderfishn
    Blaine, MN
    Posts: 5432
    #566117

    I agree with both replys so far: 8 pound for me also.

    riverfan
    MN
    Posts: 1531
    #566148

    Gary,

    Most topwater experts suggest 14-17 lb test mono. The issues is lighter line will sink below the surface and kill some of the action. I suspect you will think I’m talking about walking baits but it applies to poppers also. I frequently walk a chug bug or Berkley Frenzy popper for a change-up.

    John

    jason-cyboron
    Lincoln, NE
    Posts: 487
    #566276

    I agree with riverfan. You definately want to use mono and the heavier test line will float better than the thinner lighter test lines. I use at least 14 lb test line for topwater. I find it works best for me.

    Jason

    James Holst
    Keymaster
    SE Minnesota
    Posts: 18926
    #566301

    I don’t have any issues at all working topwater on 8 – 10 lb line. Maybe the 14+ lb test line is needed for the largies around cover but I wouldn’t dream of fishing that heavy for smallies.

    blue-fleck
    Dresbach, MN
    Posts: 7872
    #566302

    Quote:


    I don’t have any issues at all working topwater on 8 – 10 lb line. Maybe the 14+ lb test line is needed for the largies around cover but I wouldn’t dream of fishing that heavy for smallies.


    Those baitcasters we used on Mille Lacs had 15lb on them.

    James Holst
    Keymaster
    SE Minnesota
    Posts: 18926
    #566305

    I know. I used them for a few pokes but didn’t like the way it fished. I don’t think I caught a single fish on that set-up. I know you did.

    I greatly prefer fishing topwater on a 6’8″ medium Avid and a 2500 shimano spinning reel. Tom holds his own fishing the 15 lb P-line and a baitcaster. I would assume that most guy fishing anything over 10 lb test are likely using casting gear. For my personal tastes I feel like I have much more control with the spinning gear. What are the rest of you guys running for rods (I’m most interested in the rod length and action) and reels?

    Steve Root
    South St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 5623
    #566316

    Quote:


    What are the rest of you guys running for rods (I’m most interested in the rod length and action) and reels?


    9 foot 8 weight medium action graphite fly rod with an Orvis Vortex reel

    For Largemouth I use a 10 pound test tippet and drop down to 8 lb for Smallies. If the water is clear and there isn’t a lot of cover I might drop down even further but I don’t like to.

    One point to make here is that regular mono floats OK, but fluorocarbon is denser and will sink. If your line is sinking it will definitely mess up the action of a topwater regardless of how you’re throwing it.

    James I’m thinking about your comment about controlling things better with a spinning rod. I think it’s a walleye background versus bass background thing, seriously. I can’t imagine chucking anthing heavier than 1/4 ounce for Bass and NOT be using a baitcaster. I like using a baitcaster for everything including worms and jigs and only use spinning gear when I have to fish really light. How about throwing crankbaits on the river? Personally I feel much better with a baitcaster in my hand but I’ll bet you use a spinning rod for cranks too, right?

    Years ago I found a Fenwick baitcaster blank that was 6 1/2 foot long, medium heavy action, with a very soft tip. I put a two-handed Fuji handle on it. At the time the standard baitcaster was a 5ft 8 in whippy composite rod with a “pistol” grip. Just awful….That Fenwick will flip 1/4 ounce baits easily and still has the horsepower to turn a fish in cover. They should make spinning rods with this kind of power curve.

    Rootski

    James Holst
    Keymaster
    SE Minnesota
    Posts: 18926
    #566317

    Quote:


    Personally I feel much better with a baitcaster in my hand but I’ll bet you use a spinning rod for cranks too, right?


    The rod I choose when casting cranks depends a lot on what I’m fishing. If it is little / light cranks like a #5 shad rap, the spinning gear is the ticket. If I’ll be throwing big-billed baits, like a #5 Down Deep, on wingies… it is baitcaster all the way.

    timdomaille
    Rochester Mn
    Posts: 1908
    #566612

    Spinning rod I use 8# and 10# Suffix. Bait cast I use 12# P-Line Flouro. I have also used mono, but perfer Flouro because of less stretch. I have tried braid, but do not like it for top water baits.

    I mostly use Flouro for just about everything. Still has some stretch with a lot of sensitivity and very abrasive resistant.

    Steve Root
    South St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 5623
    #566621

    Tim,

    Any issues with knots when using Fluoro? I’ve used the stuff for leaders both fly fishing and spinning and it seems that one out of every three knots doesn’t “come up tight” correctly and breaks easily. I’m lubing the knot and doing all that stuff, it just acts different than mono does. Any tricks or suggestions?

    Thanks

    Rootski

    timdomaille
    Rochester Mn
    Posts: 1908
    #566637

    Rootski,

    I use P-Line only. I tried Vanish and had the knot break every time, no matter what I did. I use a Polomar knot and wet the line. I have not had problems with the knot breaking on 8# and up. I am using Seagar 6# right now because I could not get P-Line befor my last tournament. I have had not problems.

    jason-cyboron
    Lincoln, NE
    Posts: 487
    #566717

    You have to be careful with a palomar knot on flouro line. The recommended knot is a uni knot. I’ve got a buddy who can tie a knot in any brand and break it. I can tie a knot in the same line and it won’t break. It doesn’t have anything to do with lubricating the knot. If the line crosses over on itself in the wrong manner in the knot it will break. I use a palomar knot all the time and rarely have a problem. I think it’s in the way you start your knot, because it seems like half of the guys have a problem and others don’t. Whether you cross over the top or underneath, I don’t know. I use berkley vanish transition and seagar and it hasn’t been an issue for me.

    Jason

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