As the dawn topwater bite begins to turn off, switch to a weightless senko-style bait rigged wacky style. Throw it on top of submergent grass and let it slowly fall down into the grass. This presentation works best from late dusk to late morning, if its sunny out. If it’s overcast, it can work all day.
As the sun gets higher in the sky, switch to a Texas-rigged senko-style bait, or even better, a thick, ribbed French-Fry style bait or a big, ribbon-tail worm. I start big with 10- or 12-inch worms, than dial back to 7- and 8-inchers if I’m not getting bit. Land your cast to where the worm can fall as vertically as possible down past the main stem of the cabbage or lily pad to its base. If it gets to the bottom without getting bit, twitch it around a little bit, down there on the bottom near the stem of the cabbage. And try lifting it up off the bottom, moving it a foot or two, and letting it fall back to the bottom on slack line. That ribbon tail imparts great visual stimuli in clear to lightly stained water, and displaces a lot of water and creates vibration in stained water.
Big worms, in my experience, produce bigger LMB on average in grass, pads, cabbage, etc. than flipping jigs.
For really thick vegetation, like milfoil mats, etc, I prefer punch baits — big, bullet-shaped tungsten jigs with a circular punch skirt attached to its base. Your line slides free through a hole down the middle, and you tie via snell knot to a big snell hook dressed with a slim-profile creature bait.
Those techniques have produced the best for me. I fish the wacky rig on spinning gear with braid/flourocarbon leader. I fish the big worms with baitcasting gear with braid/flourocarbon leader. And I fish the punch baits on straight braid. I’ve always had good luck with dark-green braid. This summer, I will be experimenting with the new Sufix 832 camo braid.