Snowblower mechanic

  • Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907575

    mystery part, I removed the bottom plate to change the friction wheel for the drive and this fell onto the ground, any ideas on what it could be? Thanks

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    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907578

    This is the machine.

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    ClownColor
    Inactive
    The Back 40
    Posts: 1955
    #1907595

    Looks like a dickfer.

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3787
    #1907601

    they look like a chain or belt guide to prevent side to side slap.
    post the model number if you would,I tried looking at a 27/29 inch thrower parts diagram to see if I could find it with no luck.
    several parts diagrams out there for brute throwers but a model/serial number would help immensely.

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907602

    It’s 1032 brute us1032 4010 5-240. These are the only numbers on the tag , I’ve never been able to find this model anywhere on the internet, try to get the wheels off now to replace bushing, not going to well. Oh made in Canada

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907606

    Looks like a stopper for the engagement lever . Now if I could get the dam wheels off.

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    1hl&sinker
    On the St.Croix
    Posts: 2501
    #1907609

    One part saved from the extra part bucket from previous fixes of a various things we all have. GOOD JOB!

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907624

    One part saved from the extra part bucket from previous fixes of a various things we all have. GOOD JOB!

    For sure! The wife works at a tire shop and said there was no way to get a tire off a rim unless the rim is removed from the axle jester

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    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3787
    #1907638

    looks like you found out where they go easy enough.
    the number you posted takes me to a briggs and stratton engine parts manual.

    and yes,you can take tires off without taking the rims off !!

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907640

    looks like you found out where they go easy enough.
    the number you posted takes me to a briggs and stratton engine parts manual.

    and yes,you can take tires off without taking the rims off !!

    right and it a ten horse tecumpseh

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907643

    So I’m considering cutting the axle in three piece to remove and pound out the pieces from the rims only problem is the sprocket is welded on. It would have to be grinded off carefully and welded back on the new shaft I would make and drill out all holes. Going to ponder this one.

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    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3787
    #1907646

    is there anything left of the sticker on the back of the frame between the wheels??
    still trying to help you find a manual for it

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907647

    Here’s the issue, the rims have not been removed in twenty years

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    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907649

    This is it

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    Coletrain27
    Posts: 4789
    #1907651

    Try heating it with a torch and then a big hammer

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3787
    #1907652

    YIKES! I wouldnt cut the axle just yet,some heat,penetrating oil and an impact hammer should get the rims off.
    or build a puller to pull the rims off.

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907653

    is there anything left of the sticker on the back of the frame between the wheels??
    still trying to help you find a manual for it

    that would be sweet , my dad gave it too me years ago because it was to big for him, the things a beast and my wife says to get a new one but this thing is impressive when it’s going

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907659

    Oh I’ve had the acetylene on it to no avail

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3787
    #1907660

    from what I am finding that thing is pretty old and I am having trouble finding a manual for it.
    from what I understand they are owned by Briggs and Stratton,funny yours has a Techumseh on it if thats the case and it could be that was before Briggs bought them out.

    anyway,the best I can do for you for now is provide a link to their site and you can call them for help when you get a chance.
    good luck Gino!!

    https://www.brutepower.com/na/en_us/products/snow-blowers.html

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907662

    Thanks iowaboy1 appreciate the advice as always, you the man!

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3787
    #1907667

    anytime Gino.
    now,if you can find a rim to replace the ones you have if you cant get them off,lay your torch in line with the rim hub just a tiny bit above the axle line and split the rim hub length ways,pita I know but it would beat cutting the axle in three pieces which would be an absolute last resort for me.

    if you cut into the axle no biggie,just weld it back up and grind/file it round again.
    now,if you get it so hot you take the temper out of it then you are committed to replacing the axle,but if you are careful you shouldnt have any trouble.

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907884

    Browsing online came across this place. Seemed funny to me to have a website but pick up only, no shipping rotflol

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    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1907894

    So I’m considering cutting the axle in three piece to remove and pound out the pieces from the rims only problem is the sprocket is welded on. It would have to be grinded off carefully and welded back on the new shaft I would make and drill out all holes. Going to ponder this one.

    Depending on the equipment you have and your skill level, what you describe would not really be that difficult. That is assuming one can press the shaft sections out of the rims in a hydraulic press or such and salvage the rims. If you end up trashing the rims, cutting the rims in the first place, would have been better. Ponder away and roll the dice. (been there done that, doah )

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907899

    I think I’m going to try making a puller today.I’ve got a few already , one might work, just got to get off the couch and get out there. Your right though if I trash the rims it was all for nothing. I’m pretty confident I could manufacturer the shaft but but Iowaboy through me for a loop when he mentioned tempering. Not sure it would need to be hardend it’s a 3/4 inch shaft. Wouldn’t think there would be that much flex in it but I suppose the holes would eventually oblong and I’d need to make another.

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907945

    How about cutting the body on both sides and removing the axle and wheels together. Then I would be able to set up the wheels on something and be able to drive the axle out. Then weld the body back together, grind and paint. There is no way to get leverage the way it is to drive the axle out and my puller is not working. The rims and tires are much larger then any I’ve found online so I don’t really want to trash them.

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    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #1907952

    You’re putting a lot of effort into an old machine! My dad had a bunch of work done on his last year by a neighbor that works on small engines. Got it running great and even touched up the paint. A week later, the transmission went. rotflol

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907957

    You’re putting a lot of effort into an old machine! My dad had a bunch of work done on his last year by a neighbor that works on small engines. Got it running great and even touched up the paint. A week later, the transmission went. rotflol

    I like this old beast. I repainted it a few years ago and replaced the main auger shaft and bearing on it and it always been flawless. Only problem now is the bushing are shot and the sprocket is starting the rub on stuff, the piece that I found was actually because of this issue.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1907978

    I’m pretty confident I could manufacturer the shaft but but Iowaboy through me for a loop when he mentioned tempering. Not sure it would need to be hardend it’s a 3/4 inch shaft. Wouldn’t think there would be that much flex in it but I suppose the holes would eventually oblong and I’d need to make another.

    3/4 dia. 1018 mild steel should be fine for shaft material for this application.

    You might consider pulling from closer to the hub than way out on the rim like in your picture. Can you drill three holes for bolts to pull from, rather than a jaw type puller? Should have room in the wheel between the air chamber for the tire and the hub of the wheel. You will gain more pulling force by pulling as close to the hub as possible.

    If you do decide to make a new shaft and cannot drive Or better use a hydraulic press, the old shaft out of the wheel hubs. A machine shop could chuck the wheel in a lathe, centering the shaft and drill/ bore the shaft out, without damage to the wheel hubs.

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #1907983

    Trying this route, welding the body back will be easy with my new wire feed, soaking it with acetone and tranny fluid now because it’s still not coming after getting it red hot, I’ll get her, I always do.

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    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1907989

    OH-OH now you gone and got the BFH out of the tool box.

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