For those of you that do not have kicker motors what are your strategies for slowing the boat down using the main motor to save your trolling motor? I do have a 24 volt system but just asking to see what people do with their main motor. My main motor keeps me at about 2.3 to 2.4 mph which is okay some times of the year looking to be able to slow it down to about 1.7. I have looked into drift socks and not sure that’s the best way or not. Thanks in advance.
Put your trolling motor down and turn the head sideways to get the most drag. Tilt the main motor up, that will reduce the thrust a little. Keep in mind tilting the main will cost you a bit of control but you are going slow anyway.
I use a couple of 3 gallon pails as drift socks, cheap, do double duty for storage, water dish for my dog, pee bucket, get down to about 1.5 depending on conditions
I troll cranks alot and I didn’t want a trolling plate on my motor so I used the following system using two drift socks for years prior to getting a kicker and it worked great. It was easy to deploy and easy to bring back into the
boat. I can email you the complete article with photos if you PM me with your email address.
The Tamer Trolling System…in the wind and in control
If you’ve you ever trolled in the wind, you know how frustrating it can be. The bow of your boat blows off line, forcing you to speed up to get back on line. Take your eye off the bow for one second, and it happens again. Sound familiar? Cross winds, head winds and waves will wear you out – but there is something you can do to get back under control.
Recently we at Tamer began testing a new trolling technique using two Wave Tamers to stabilize the bow. For small boats and engines 100 hp and smaller, we recommend two 30″ Wave Tamers. For larger boats and engines above 100 hp, we recommend two 40″ Wave Tamers.
The trolling bags help anchor the bow so the wind doesn’t affect it as much, which results in much better handling. Several tournament pros were instrumental in developing this technique, and perfected the rigging during numerous PWT and RCL walleye events. Special thanks go to Johnnie Candle and Jim Carroll of North Dakota. The system has since caught on, and has received high marks from all the pros using it.
Here’s how to rig up for the Tamer Trolling System. With your boat on the trailer, take a length of 1/2″ limp nylon rope or soft dock rope, make a 6″ loop on one end, then fasten it to your mid ship cleat. Run the other end under your boat, up to the other mid ship cleat, and tie it off as tightly as you can. Next crawl under your boat, and with a marking pen, mark the rope where it meets the keel in the center of the hull. Now make two more marks approximately 14″ on either side of the first mark.
Next release the rope and pull it from under the boat. Run the rope through the loop on your Wave Tamer until it contacts the outside mark. Tie a simple over-hand knot, making sure the loop of the Wave Tamer is in the center of the knot. Repeat this process on the other outside mark. Pass the rope and bags under the boat and reattach as before, paying close attention that the bags are an equal distance apart on each side of the keel. You may have to adjust the loops to make sure they’re rigged evenly.
IMPORTANT- Both rope ends must be attached to the cleats when you deploy your trolling bags. You must be able to drop the bags over the front of the boat with both loops fastened to the cleats. BE SURE THE MOTOR IS IN NEUTRAL!
To deploy the trolling bags, stop your motor and fasten the loops to the mid ship cleats. Drop both bags over the front of the boat. You can be sure the rigging is in place by pulling the rope as tight as you can and tying it off.
To retrieve the bags, STOP the boat by putting the motor in neutral to release tension on the rope. Go to the short end of the rope and begin to pull in your bags. Be sure both loops are fastened to the cleats, so there’s no loose end to deal with.
The Tamer Trolling System. It’s another innovative new technique from Lindy that’ll help you tame the elements, and put more fish in the boat.
I use Amish Outfitter trolling bags. Usually on LOTW when I want to troll cranks. Not ideal, but they work. For reference I run an Alumacraft 185 with a 150. Can troll down to about 1.5mph if I remember correctly. An added bonus is that they tame the bow down in rougher water.
drift Sock help control the bow. Just returned from lake of the woods used drift sauk along with 75 to troll down and jig fish.
I normally adjust(especially when slowing) my trolling speed via one of three methods:
1) Hitting rocks with hull and skeg/prop
2) Hitting logs with hull and skeg/prop
3) Slowing, stopping, and backtracking for snags.
If the conditions allow, back trolling will probably get you down to 1.5 from 2.7.
Otherwise the bucket tied off to the bow eye works pretty good until you forget to pull it in and put the hammer down. 
-J.
Agree on the buckets! Works all the time!!
I had the same issue. I played around with a couple of different sized drift socks until I got it right. Have never had to use both though.
Cabela’s med drift sock on a 6′ rope off the cleat just in front of the windsheild, that way I can just reach over and pull it in. No need to go off the front Eye. Also back trolling works if the wind is not to bad
I use Amish Outfitter trolling bags.
X2
One end to the front cleat, the other to the rear cleat. They are always on the side of the boat. Lift them in the boat when making a run and flip ’em back over to start another trolling run. Better built than most drift socks and very well made.
I use 5 gal buckets with a 4″ hole cut on the bottom clipped onto the tie downs on the transom. Works well to get my boat (’00 17′ Pro V w/ 125 Merc) down to 2.3-3.2 MPH for salmon and trout on Superior without running too high of RPM.
two 5 gallon buckets. Make sure to drill holes in the bottom. This will allow minimal water to pass through and keep the buckets in the water. I used to do this and worked great. You can tie these up on your front gunnel (one on each side) so they do not get in the way of your lines.
I also put my trolling motor down to create drag and trim the main motor up. Helps a lot.
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