Had success last night using a slip bobber. Egg sinker above a swivel with a plain hook, no split shot above hook. I would say 1/3 of my casts ended in a tangled mess. Would direct tying and replacing my plain hook with a small jig solve this issue, or are there other tips anyone can give about casting this rig?
First question is are your guides on your rod big enough for the bobber stop to pass through without getting hung up?
If the weight of the Egg sinker is falling faster than the hook end is that’s likely the cause of your tangle mess. A jig replacing the plain hook would likely help. Using a lob kind of cast may also help. You need to keep that Egg sinker as far away from that plain hook at possible. I would think of replacing the egg sinker with large splitshot . That plus a Jig is what I use in 90% of my bobber fishing and I rarely get tangled up.
First question is are your guides on your rod big enough for the bobber stop to pass through without getting hung up?
That didn’t seem to cause any issues, at least that were noticeable.
If the weight of the Egg sinker is falling faster than the hook end is that’s likely the cause of your tangle mess. A jig replacing the plain hook would likely help. Using a lob kind of cast may also help. You need to keep that Egg sinker as far away from that plain hook at possible. I would think of replacing the egg sinker with large splitshot . That plus a Jig is what I use in 90% of my bobber fishing and I rarely get tangled up.
So you continue to use a weight above the swivel/hook?
Use long slow casting motion, apply a ever so slight tension to the line coming off the reel. I find that the sliding egg sinker is the problem if not casted correctly.
So you continue to use a weight above the swivel/hook?
I don’t often use a Swivel, But If I was to, I’d add the split shot above the swivel – Yes !!!
I’m no expert, but seems you are using the same setup all the guys use for “power corking”. Egf sinker gets it down fast, but maybe they are using a light jig also?
Some good casting advice above, long slow cast still will send it out aways.
I only use the swivel/egg sinker rig when I am in an area I know is good for size but not numbers, specifically because re-casting that rig is a PITA in my experience. Instead, I just use the smallest possible split shot with a plain hook or floating jig, and I love using an okuma avenger with the baitfeeder to further reduce the resistance felt by the fish.
Why would you use a slip sink for a slip bobber? I seen others (on tv shows) use it I just can’t see why. If there’s an advantage I’ll try it. But it seems it would create issues like yours to me. I use a pinch on sinker 18″ above the hook, no swivel. Rarely get a tangle.
A slip bobber and appropriate size jig are generally all one needs. If the fish are too flighty for a jig, a split shot, small hook, and slip bobber work great. Anything else is too complicated for a relaxing bobber fish. Im not untangling anything if I can help it bobber fishing.
Why would you use a slip sink for a slip bobber? I seen others (on tv shows) use it I just can’t see why.
I kind of always thought the same. I know a setup using a Slip sinker is used in a power corking setup. But this is usually used when you are directly over the fish that you spot on your graph and drop right on top of. Different than when casting.
Use slip sinkers to avoid pinching the line and potentially reducing strength. Use slip sinkers when using larger bobbers in deep water to get down quick. Swivel prevents your minnow or leech making a twisted mess by swimming in circles.
My deep water rig consists of a bobber that holds a 1/2 ounce, a 3/8 slip weight, swivel, leader, and an 1/8 ounce jig. Gets down quick even in windy conditions, and has enough weight to allow a slow troll and still stay down.
Bobber fishing has unlimited variables. There’s no wrong way and a million right ways. Do what works for you. Personally I think the best advice given here is to practice a gentle lob cast to prevent tangling.
Why would you use a slip sink for a slip bobber? I seen others (on tv shows) use it I just can’t see why. If there’s an advantage I’ll try it. But it seems it would create issues like yours to me. I use a pinch on sinker 18″ above the hook, no swivel. Rarely get a tangle.
Split shot is attached to the line and some say fish can feel the weight and spit the bait. Egg sinker above a swivel allows the line to move free of the weight. Like other I only use power corking or if I know I’m gonna set up in a spot with potential large fish and camp out a while.
I use a similar setup when slip bobbering for walleyes and agree with the posts directly above me about the advantages of using a slip sinker or worm weight with a swivel. I haven’t had any issues using a plain hook with this setup if I add a small split shot about 12” up from the hook. Otherwise I will use a 1/8 oz jig head
Not only is having the added weight great to get down quickly, I find I can make much more accurate casts when using live imaging to pick out fish 30-40ft away.
Drop shot and bobber time… I get a lot of strange looks, when the fish don’t want a jig head, a bell sinker below a plain hook tied directly to line. I rarely use a split shot, egg sinkers are only used when power corking. Works for me, gets bait down fast, never tangles.
Weird that posted to the wrong thread. Ignore this post.
Use slip sinkers to avoid pinching the line and potentially reducing strength. Use slip sinkers when using larger bobbers in deep water to get down quick. Swivel prevents your minnow or leech making a twisted mess by swimming in circles.
My deep water rig consists of a bobber that holds a 1/2 ounce, a 3/8 slip weight, swivel, leader, and an 1/8 ounce jig. Gets down quick even in windy conditions, and has enough weight to allow a slow troll and still stay down.
Bobber fishing has unlimited variables. There’s no wrong way and a million right ways. Do what works for you. Personally I think the best advice given here is to practice a gentle lob cast to prevent tangling.
I have watched this work for this guy many many times
I use a small split shot sinker 6-12″ above a small flu flu or tube jig and the slip bobber size depends on the distance required and water conditions. If it can’t be cought on a flu flu or a tube jig it’s not a fish I want to meet.
I use heavy egg slip sinkers in the 1/4oz range above a swivel because it gets the bait down fast. I target fish with livescope so fast is key with a bobber. Get rid of the plain hook and go to a tungsten jig in the 1/8oz range.
Less tangles, more efficient easy to cast plain and simple.
What kind of line are you using? (pound test/mono/braid?)
-J.
I use heavy egg slip sinkers in the 1/4oz range above a swivel because it gets the bait down fast. I target fish with livescope so fast is key with a bobber. Get rid of the plain hook and go to a tungsten jig in the 1/8oz range.
Less tangles, more efficient easy to cast plain and simple.
I do the exact same. Never an issue.
I use heavy egg slip sinkers in the 1/4oz range above a swivel because it gets the bait down fast. I target fish with livescope so fast is key with a bobber. Get rid of the plain hook and go to a tungsten jig in the 1/8oz range.
Less tangles, more efficient easy to cast plain and simple.
What kind/name and style of jig are you using? I dont want to cycle through a bunch of stuff so a pointer would be appreciated!
The left side is what my setup looks like. I used the 4″ Thill Big Game bobbers or the 3/8 – 1/2oz Thill Wobble Bobbers. Some guys also like the weighted Thill Pro Series which work well also.
Put enough weight (try 3/8oz egg slip sinker) then a bead (this keeps the knot on the swivel from getting beat up) then to a swivel. Fluoro leader to a 1/8oz jig of choice. I have been using Tungsten lately and really like it.
If you use braid, I use to slip bobber stops instead of one. It keeps it from sliding.
Just my .02 cents and what has worked really good for me. You’re still going to get a tangle around the slip sinker from time to time, but it’s going to happen. But it is rare for me to get one.
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Avoid a direct overhead casting technique and ease up on the casting speed. High speed means the rig creates more air vortices that twists the hook and line into a tangle.
Choosing a more stiff line for the leader portion. Sometimes it’s just using a larger diameter mono. It also helps to reduce the rig from twisting and catching in flight.
I used to use the egg,swivel, leader, plain red hook and a leech for years and didn’t get tangled much. Always a side arm lob cast. And right as it was about to hit the water, I’d slowly grab the line and pull the rod slightly away from target to “straighten” the rig out before letting it sink. Seemed to work well.
Now I just use the vmc lighted float with the proper size jig and a leech. Still use a swivel but not sure if it’s necessary. Just like having a flouro leader.
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