I am currently using the Cannon rail mount for my DT-5’s and do not like how the rigger bounces around mostly because the rail is flexing. Looking at leaving the rail on and adding a 2′ section of track between the back of the rail, leaving enough clearance in front of the light pole. Anybody know if the Cannon track is the same as Berts? Would accessories be interchangeable?
Most of the aftermarket track systems are the same dimensions and are interchangable with other accessories. Cannon, Bert’s, Trax Tech, etc are all interchangeable. On my Trax Tech tracks I’ve got Bert’s ratcheting rod holders, Cannon Downriggers, and Great Lakes Planer board rod trees.
I have a cannon base with a traxstech plate I run with 8 pound ball on its rock solid no problems yet
Thought I had this all lined out in my mind but I think I may be overthinking it 
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I was going to mount a 24″ Cannon track from the back of the rail toward the back. I would have to remove the retractable cleat. Now I am wondering if I should leave the cleat, and remove the rail placing a 36″ track there. Not having a rail seems odd. The downrigger would be slightly forward using this system vs the shorter track further back.
I have never used track systems and not even downriggers that much.
Thoughts?
I’ve done a variation of both options you’re looking at. On my last boat, the cleats were moved back towards the stern and the tracks covered up the old hole. On the new boat, the back half of the rail was removed and capped with a bullet shaped cap and the rail went directly behind it. I’ve got a 60 inch track for maximum adjustability plus a forward rail section. Whether it’s trolling for Salmon with the riggers, dipsy holders, and rod trees, or trolling for walleyes with the Folbe’s, I’ve got it pretty well covered.
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Thought I had this all lined out in my mind but I think I may be overthinking it
I was going to mount a 24″ Cannon track from the back of the rail toward the back. I would have to remove the retractable cleat. Now I am wondering if I should leave the cleat, and remove the rail placing a 36″ track there. Not having a rail seems odd. The downrigger would be slightly forward using this system vs the shorter track further back.
I have never used track systems and not even downriggers that much.
Thoughts?
Some other thoughts after making my last post… I don’t know what boat you have, so I thought I’d offer some things that I’ve learned the hard way. As far as rigger positioning, I run mine straight out the back so I have room to run Dipsy’s outside of that and 2-3 inline planer board rods per side outside of that. To run the riggers straight back, I needed to make sure I had the reach to get past the back of the boat and the kicker, but still forward enough so I could run the rigger while standing the floor of the boat rather than kneeling on the rear casting deck. Kneeling on the rear deck is fine when it’s calm, but when the waves pick up, I felt like I was tempting fate and would have eventually gone for a swim. On my boat, I’ve got the riggers mounted about even with the front of the back deck edge. I can run them comfortably while standing on the floor and with the extentable booms I’ve got, I can still get them out back past the back of the boat and the kicker. From there, if you’re going to run Dipsy and board rod holders, it’s nice to get as much seperation between them as possible, so that’s why I’ve got the 60 inch tracks. Of course, if you run your riggers straight out the side vs the back, it shouldn’t be a problem where you mount them on the rail as long as you have room in front for anything you want to run there.
OK, so I am going to mount tracks on the MX 1825. The rail will go just behind the rail and over the cleat so I need to remove the cleat. It seems impossible to get to the inside of the gunnel without removing the entire rod locker on the side and the storage on the stbd side. Is that how it works?
When I felt I needed to upgrade my backing, I did in fact romove the rear rod holder from the port side rod locker, and then back panel of the starboard side storage area. If I remember correctly, I think the storage shelf and door frame had to come out on the starboard side as well to get that rear panel out. It wasn’t a big deal…..
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When I felt I needed to upgrade my backing, I did in fact romove the rear rod holder from the port side rod locker, and then back panel of the starboard side storage area. If I remember correctly, I think the storage shelf and door frame had to come out on the starboard side as well to get that rear panel out. It wasn’t a big deal…..
Did you remove any of the handrails? How long is your track?
I’ve got a 2025, so it’s not a direct comparison. I’ve got a 60 inch track. The back half of the handrail was removed. If you look at my photo’s above, the handrail was cut off just behind the second attachment point and a bullet end cap put on for asthetics.
I am ready to secure my 24″ Cannon tracks but undecided on sealer. Cannon says to use marine grade silicone. From what I’ve read and learned that is only to seal holes, not provide any security. If 3M 5200 overkill for this?
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