Skeeter WX 1850

I’m going to make the switch from tin to Glass and really love the looks and layout of the WX 1850. In fact i’m considering ordering one this week. Here’s the direction i’m going, if you think i should do something different from you experience please make suggestions.

Terrova 80
single axle trailer
Keel guard
2 hummingbird 859’s – May consider side imaging on one?
3 bank charger
Yammi 150 4 stroke- I’ve had good luck with suzi’s but have heard good things about the yammi

That should do it for this part time angler?

Not sure what kind of fishing you plan on doing, but I really love my kicker motor. Never had one before my current boat, but last season I used it a lot. You just have to justify the amount of time you will use it before you put it on. Just an idea.

Welcome to IDO!!

I am entering my 3rd year running the 1850 after years in a nice tin boat. Will never go back the 1850 is awesome. Here are my thoughts on your selections.

*80 Terrova is plenty no need for 36V 101. I-pilot is a must.
*I love my double axle trailor and would never go back to a single axle unless I needed to move it around in the garage. The dual axle pulls so nice, elec brakes are nice and the security of knowing your 45K boat will stay on the road if you blow a tire.
*I have an 858 bird on the bow, I would not go larger than a 700 series if I did it again because with I-pilot I spend most of the time driving with the remote so I would save some money on the bow elec and put a 900 or 1100 series at the helm.
*3 bank charger is good
*My f150 Yami and 9.9 kicker have been bullet proof
*would not waste money on a radio, never works anyway
*I would consider rear rails if you’re not already
*Skeeter custom cover is great, I have 1000’s of miles traveled with mine on.

Thanks all I can think of, fire away if you have anymore questions.

Jason

Like Jason said, love the tandem axle. I have a 101 terrova and most times over kill. Do the travel cover. If you are a rigger fishermen ,think about putting a locator near where you will be running the kicker. That and rear and front rail are a must IMHO for rod holders. I only put them in rear and will do both next time. Good luck on your purchase. One piece advise, just as important as what type, brand you buy is the dealer you buy from who is going to stand behind the product and has competent people rigging your purchase. I am on my 4th boat purchase , believe me their are great boat centers and some not so great places to make a purchase. Good luck and show us some picks when you get er done

I would say go tandem axle.
36v would be nice if you fish current or wind often. 24v will do it but now is the time to get the upgrade as yo would pay the diff between the two. Also that would mean a 4 bank or a 3 and a 1 bank.

I’m on my second year with a 1850 and really enjoy it over my previous 20 years in a Crestliner. Surely the “newness” is a factor though. I have a single axle trailer, no kicker, and a 101 Terrova on the bow, two rails on each side,(nice).

My fishing, is considerably different than most. I fish from December till May, and then my boat goes into storage, only to get taken out for an occasional joy ride in the summer.

I also have the Custom Skeeter travel cover. Its nice, but stores a ton of water in the bow and tail section if left outside in the rain. The tail section doesnt cover the rear splashwell far enough to swipe the water off into the splashwell when trying to clear it, so the rear deck gets sopped. My first trip hauling the boat any distance, was a 4 hour trip in January, at about 10 degrees. When I untarped my boat, there was considerable “chafing” on the sides of the gel coat. Worse on the side that the wind was blowing from on the trip out. Very discouraging to have a brand new boat damaged by the travel cover. No, its not a deal breaker and it will buff out. I doubt that anyone would notice it unless pointed out to them, and then theyre like, wow. not cool. I had a soft liner sewn into my tarp down the two sides as soon as I got back, and that has stopped any further damage from occuring. I think the travel cover is fine for down south, and towing under summer time conditions, but it was just too hard at the temps I pulled under. I do have to make sure when stowing my tarp now, that I dont get any small rocks, stuck in the soft liner. I never lay my tarp on the ground, or on the garage floor.

I think theres some modifications that could/should be done to the travel cover, particulary for the boats that go up north..

I’m running a 2011 WX1850 with 150 Yamaha, 9.9 kicker and 101 I-pilot Terrova. I mounted rod tubes from port locker on top extending into the front port compartment and on the bottom to the bulkhead under the console. Also put a cargo net on port side under the console. If river fishing I’d go with the 36v electric and I would not be without the kicker. The boat holds a troll great in wind and or current and rides like a bigger boat. I have a single axel trailer but would want dual if trailering long distance often. Make sure whatever trailer you get has a bunk or roller more forward than what they were using. I have to avoid steeper ramps because it is impossible to load. The bow won’t come up to get above the bow stop roller. Also see if the new SHO 4stroke 150 is available. X2 on rails.

X2 on everything river rookie said. I wouldnt want a single axle trailer. Where I live fishing the bays due noc a full wind shield is a must. You will want a different bow roller stop. The ones the ez loaders come with scratches the bow and leaves a powder when trailering. Shop around . You can find left overs for 30,000-34,000 with most options

Thanks for all feedback everyone! I have limited space in my garage which is why i’m going with the single axle trailer. I will order the rails for the back of the boat.

Question: I fish by myself a lot and am use to roller trailers. Are the bunk trailers fairly easy to load and unload by yourself? Where is the sweet spot when backing in for ideal loading?

Thanks!

If you use steep ramps often, I would say the adapternthatcallows the trolling motor back is a must. Otherwise you will be hitting your Terrova on the trailer a lot. Not a good sound.

FDR

I struggled a little with the change from rollers to bunks. I’m comfortable with it now. I leave about one inch of the top of my single axle fenders out of the water as a gauge for loading. . I changed out my fixed terrova bracket for the retracting one,

You should build a bigger garage. You are going to hate having a single axle trailer.

If you are hitting your bow mount on the bow roller, you have your trailer in too far. You need it far enough out of the water to get the bow to start going up the bunks before the TM gets to the roller. The steeper the ramp, the less trailer I have in the water. Every boat/trailer has a different sweet spot, and every ramp will be slightly different.

Quote:

---

You should build a bigger garage. You are going to hate having a single axle trailer.

If you are hitting your bow mount on the bow roller, you have your trailer in too far. You need it far enough out of the water to get the bow to start going up the bunks before the TM gets to the roller. The steeper the ramp, the less trailer I have in the water. Every boat/trailer has a different sweet spot, and every ramp will be slightly different.

---

I’m not really understanding the need for a bigger garage just because of the tandem axles? Is the trailer that much bigger with having another axle underneath it?

I agree with the loading problem on hitting your trolling motor. There shouldn’t be any reason that your hitting your motor. The only time I have had an issue was launching one time. Had the trailer in too far and I was launching by myself. Other than that it should ride up the bunks and nothing should hit.

I dont “hate” my single axle trailer..

The problem is unloading, not loading when the Terrova hits. I unload alone almost every time, and at the time of year I fish, there are no docks in to walk back on and see if Im able to get it off the trailer. I back it in till the rear end floats, and then get in and back it off with the motor. Yes, the front end drops down when it comes off the bunks, but I dont worry about that, because Ive got the Terrova slid back now..

If I back in to where I do loading, the boat wont slide off the bunks..

Quote:

---

Also see if the new SHO 4stroke 150 is available. .

---

To be clear the SHO engines are bass engines and the offshores are for the walleye boats. The normal 150 has plenty of power and is a very reliable engine. You will not be sorry you went with it.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

You should build a bigger garage. You are going to hate having a single axle trailer.

If you are hitting your bow mount on the bow roller, you have your trailer in too far. You need it far enough out of the water to get the bow to start going up the bunks before the TM gets to the roller. The steeper the ramp, the less trailer I have in the water. Every boat/trailer has a different sweet spot, and every ramp will be slightly different.

---

I’m not really understanding the need for a bigger garage just because of the tandem axles? Is the trailer that much bigger with having another axle underneath it?

I agree with the loading problem on hitting your trolling motor. There shouldn’t be any reason that your hitting your motor. The only time I have had an issue was launching one time. Had the trailer in too far and I was launching by myself. Other than that it should ride up the bunks and nothing should hit.

---

He said he has limited space in his garage, which is why he is going with a single axle trailer. I assume he needs to move it around by hand. It is near impossible to wiggle a tandem into a spot.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

You should build a bigger garage. You are going to hate having a single axle trailer.

If you are hitting your bow mount on the bow roller, you have your trailer in too far. You need it far enough out of the water to get the bow to start going up the bunks before the TM gets to the roller. The steeper the ramp, the less trailer I have in the water. Every boat/trailer has a different sweet spot, and every ramp will be slightly different.

---

I’m not really understanding the need for a bigger garage just because of the tandem axles? Is the trailer that much bigger with having another axle underneath it?

I agree with the loading problem on hitting your trolling motor. There shouldn’t be any reason that your hitting your motor. The only time I have had an issue was launching one time. Had the trailer in too far and I was launching by myself. Other than that it should ride up the bunks and nothing should hit.

---

He said he has limited space in his garage, which is why he is going with a single axle trailer. I assume he needs to move it around by hand. It is near impossible to wiggle a tandem into a spot.

---

That is correct. I’ve never owned a double axle but I’ve been told there hard to move around after you back them in.

PS: Building a bigger garage is not an option!

Quote:

---

He said he has limited space in his garage, which is why he is going with a single axle trailer. I assume he needs to move it around by hand. It is near impossible to wiggle a tandem into a spot.

---

Ahh! That makes sense!! I understand now!

If you tow alot, then the dual axle is a no brainer simply for the added safety of extra tires in-case of a blowout, it tows better too. Any type of manual adjustment in a garage is almost impossible with a dual axle (you can lower the tongue jack to put more pressure on the front tires which makes it a little easier, but it still sucks)

I tow 2 times a year (in/out of the garage for winter storage) and need to play tetris with moving everything in the garage all winter long so a single axle works great for me…

I do not have a 1850 but I have a 1825 so close. Get the front and Rear Rails. for the little they cost its a no brainer. Even if you dont troll who ever fishes in the boat will put up their feet. With the rails if keeps them off the glass. 80 thrust minkota is fine with my boat. I-pilot if a must. I have a single axel also because of my garage.. It is fine. I realize the arguments for the tandam.. But if your boat needs to be moved by hand single is where its at.

I’m going to order my new rig tomorrow if all goes well. The hardest part is going to be picking out the color.

Thanks everyone for all the comments. I’ll have tons of questions i’m sure as i’m waiting for my new boat to arrive this spring.

Quote:

---

I’m going to order my new rig tomorrow if all goes well. The hardest part is going to be picking out the color.

Thanks everyone for all the comments. I’ll have tons of questions i’m sure as i’m waiting for my new boat to arrive this spring.

---

Well just keep asking, because I think you are in the right location to find out the answers. Good luck on your purchase!

Where is everones transducer? I was told that the inhull transducers are junk and to have the transduced installed on the outisde. I am buing a new 1850 and having it setup now and just wondering if i should have the transducer installed on the outside also?

Did anyone have a diferent ladder installed on the transom? I ordered a different one so it would be easier for the kids to get in when swiming. Not sure if i am going to like it.

I had my 1850 rigged from the factory with a Humminbird and a Lowrance 2d glassed in. Originally, I mounted my Humminbird HDSI up safe, where everyone told me and hooked in the Y cable for 2D thru the glassed in puck.

. I had had SI for 5 years prior on my Crestliner, and the transducer was mounted on the transom, at the water line. Never had any problems with it located there. got high speed 2D and Si readings at ful throttle.
I absolutely hated my HDSI mounted safe, and immediately changed it to run on the bottom surface. I started out with the standard mounting bracket, and didnt care for that approach because there just isnt enough room to adequately tweak the transducer. Plus, with the hull design, its hard to find a location that will give you a clear shot both ways without disturbance/interference. (at speeds more than 4 mph)

What I ended up with is a dual transducer mounted to the bottom of the “step” with a Transducer Shield and Saver bracket. This gives me good left and right readings, and also High speed 2D and SI, which I want..

My install isnt for everyone…

I am not getting a SI model just the DI. If it dont work correctly i guess ill just have to get it moved to the outside.

I used the glassed in tranducer on my previous Skeeter and when it went to hell I had one mounted on the out side. I am doing the same thing with my newer one. Transducers seem to go to hell every few years any way running these newer units.

The SI ducer is mounted on the “step” and I haven’t had any issues with it. Doug knows what he is doing.

Is there anything else i need to know? I upgraded to the I pilot, ordered the extra seat and ski pylon. I Have a HB 859 in dash and 688 in bow.

Has anyone used Rainx on there windshield?

Rain-x Works great.

Rook,

I am shopping a used WX1850. What is the longest rod you can fit into your rod lockers? I am a musky guy and can’t find any info on lengths. Thanks for the help.