Skeeter WX1910 Upgrades

  • Michael C. Winther
    Reedsburg, WI
    Posts: 1502
    #1567862

    After running my WX1910 for a few months, I made two upgrades. Well, actually, I’ve done tons of stuff to “make it mine” but I did two things that impacted the boat’s performance. I’m VERY happy with the results of both of these upgrades, and as a result I love my boat even more…if that’s possible. ;-)

    1) Switched to a 36v/112lb Terrova with 72″ shaft.
    I’m getting much better run time on a charge, can control the boat at lower power settings, and the boat responds more quickly to on/off “pulses” at lower power settings. The long shaft has also all but eliminated having the prop clear the water, which would happen with the 60″ in moderate waves.
    This required upgrading the charger from 3-bank to 4-bank, which was also moved to the space underneath the port jump seat. The extra trolling motor battery was added in the floor next to the other two where the charger used to be.

    2) Added an SE Sport 300 Hydrofoil
    Time to plane was fair with the straight motor at 7-9 seconds; however, there is significant bow lift that obscured my view ahead of the boat for a few seconds whil planing. This was exacerbated with passengers in the boat’s rear jump seats.
    Since adding the hydrofoil it is slightly quicker to plane (6-8 seconds) and rises onto plane with a much flatter ride even with passengers in the back seats, allowing me to see clearly the whole time and sit more comfortably. Top end speed remained the same at 48-49mph, but I also gained a slower on-plane cruising speed which saves me some gas on long runs.
    Here’s a link to a video showing before/after:

    What are your thoughts?
    What upgrades have you tried out?

    skeeter20
    Winnie/Grand Rapids,MN
    Posts: 902
    #1568270

    My buddy runs a 17p reliance 48-49mph. Tried an 18p and 19p. Saw no gains in top speed with the 18p but less hole shot. 19p was pretty bad hole shot but ran 52mph. The 18p and the 19p don’t have any vent holes. He will be trying some other props next year. I think an 18p Turbo 1 would be a good one to try.

    Michael C. Winther
    Reedsburg, WI
    Posts: 1502
    #1568350

    I’d like to test out some 4-blade props for lift and control; top end is less important to me plus in a couple years my son will be big enough for skiing and tubing…

    fisherman-j
    Northern MN
    Posts: 323
    #1568378

    What hole is your 200 in?

    gizmoguy
    Crystal,MN
    Posts: 756
    #1568573

    I run the Merc rev 4 blade prop 19″ pitch on my WX2100 with the 250 Yami. I love the prop. I too top out at about 48 mph with a full load. But I just jump up on plane and runs with minimal bow lift. It has a longer tube length for more stern lift. Has the adjustable vent holes. I just opened up 2 of the plugs with a drill bit. No need to buy the plugs with hole in them. Dial it in on your own. Great bite in the waves. And I lifted my motor by 2 holes and have never ventilated once. With the smaller boat/motor this my be the same prop you would use.

    Attachments:
    1. 20150628_101423.jpg

    SLE
    Posts: 23
    #1568953

    ………………..

    What are your thoughts?
    What upgrades have you tried out?

    I had a WX1900 with a 200 hpdi and tried several props including a custom DAH Tempest plus, a cobra edge hydrofoil, and honestly the best upgrade I made was selling it and buying a Yarcraft 186 with Merc power! I’ll probably get flamed but skeeters bigger boats are slugs and there’s no excuse for it. My Yarcraft is 3″ shorter, but 3″ wider, weighs within 100 lbs of the skeeter yet runs 10 mph faster. I can click 60 mph with a DAH 21 Tempest with two guys, full fuel and gear. Even turning my lower pitched DAH 19 rev 4, it’ll rocket out of the hole and will push the rev limiter at 54-55 mph. Frankly, skeeter has some hull work to do and needs to build some lift into their bigger boats.

    The only thing I can truly add is to try a good stern lifting prop like the Bravo 1 fs or xs or as mentioned a Revoltion 4. You’ll give up some top end with a rev 4 but the hole shot, bow lift, rough water ride and control will be substantially better than most any other prop. The bravo turns easier and will run faster but gives up bite and control at lower speeds. For me, I’m out of the hole in 3-4 seconds and by 8 I’d be guessing I’m pushing 35-40 mph. I really like the layout of the new 1910 but the performance was unacceptable.

    Michael C. Winther
    Reedsburg, WI
    Posts: 1502
    #1569180

    well, i’d hardly call it a “slug.” pre-hydrofoil it hit 30mph at 8 seconds, 40mph at 10 seconds, and 49mph at 21 seconds. that’s reasonable in comparsion to other deep-v fiberglass boats i’ve been in or owned (7 in last 10 years). you claim up to 40mph in 8 seconds and 60mph top-end…will you post a video of your gps like i did? https://youtu.be/kAYd-6Vwxig

    some are a tad quicker, some are a tad slower, and none of them are Allison racing hulls. and not to quibble with your facts but the 186TFX is 7″ shorter, 3″ wider, and 200lbs lighter than the WX1910; it’s not the same hull as the 1900. if 48-49mph is “unacceptable performance,” i’ll live with it…for example, a Ranger 619vs with the same Yamaha F200 and kicker tops out at ~50-51mph. the WX1910 is one is the smoothest rides i’ve experienced by far and even has a spot for rods more than 8′ long. i’ll post some big wave video when i get a chance to edit it. at the same time, getting up a bit quicker and especially flatter was well worth installing a $75 hydrofoil.

    skeeter20
    Winnie/Grand Rapids,MN
    Posts: 902
    #1569187

    The 1900 was not a speed demon but was excellent out of the hole and mid range. My buddy went to that from a 620 with 225 etec ho and was blown away at the hole shot difference.

    Now the old WX1880 with 200hpdi was a fast boat(upper 50’s). But I will guarantee no one would trade an 1880 speed for the ride and fishability of the new WX1910. In most cases with hull design you will sacrifice speed for a better rough water ride.

    Only a hand full of days a guy can run wide open. My 2190 is by no means a fast boat compared to others but the when its rough I’m willing to bet I’ll be the first one to the spot.

    SLE
    Posts: 23
    #1569265

    I figured my post would get someone’s panties in a knot, I am on the Skeeter forum and on a site that bleeds Skeeter and Yamaha, good thing I got thick skin. If you read through my post I offered some constructive thoughts on props. I tried no less than 9 on the last three boats.

    Lambeu, you said your hole shot was 7-9 seconds pre-hydrofoil and 6-8 seconds after, (hence my slug comment) but your hitting 30 mph at 8 seconds?

    Sorry no go pro for me but you can do the math or you can try to run me down on the lake:). I know two 2190’s with a 300s couldn’t do it in august on a shotgun start, ha ha. My 200 Opti turns a 21P Tempest plus at 5700-5750 RPM (load and condition dependent) and I see slip numbers below 10% (using the pitch stamped on the prop). With my DAH 19 Rev 4, I have to back out of it as I’m over reving at 5800 rpm at 54+ mph. Probably gonna have to have John at DAH dial out some more RPM or go up to a 20P or 21P.

    My some prop suggestions were dead seroious even though I’m having a little fun with your guys, which I chuckle at since they are both mercury props, that’s probably a swear word but they have the best selection available and have hub kits for most other manufactures. I would honestly look at a Rev 4 or maybe the bravo, I just don’t have the experience with the bravo. Some love it, some hate it.

    I’m humored a little reading this. You can argue ride and use it as an excuse for the lack of speed but you’ll be hard pressed to convince anybody other than a fellow Skeeter owner that this is the reason. I’ve own 3 boats in the last 14 months and have good friends with skeets, rangers, and a warrior. Sorry Guys, but the big Warriors, Yar-crafts, Lund GLs, Rangers, Nitro’s etc all ride good but some are significantly faster than others. I’ve fished enough tourney’s to know which ones are the runaways, they uusually aren’t skeeters and funny thing, they usually have a black motor not name Suzuki hanging on the transom!

    Michael C. Winther
    Reedsburg, WI
    Posts: 1502
    #1569311

    good thing I got thick skin.

    yep, most everybody loves the boat/truck/beer brand they happen to buy…i’ve owned a handful of Merc Optis too (three 200hp, one 90hp). it’s a good motor no doubt, but i’ve liked the all-around performance of my Yamaha four strokes better. plus being able to have a conversation is nice. ;-)

    you said your hole shot was 7-9 seconds pre-hydrofoil and 6-8 seconds after, (hence my slug comment) but your hitting 30 mph at 8 seconds?

    pre-hydrofoil it was 30mph in 8 seconds, yes. (click the video link in my last post and you can check for yourself.)
    and of course, the point at which a boat is “on plane” is subjective. the performance bulletin on the WX1910 lists 5.48 seconds to plane and 6.82 seconds to reach 30mph with a demo boat that’s not loaded as heavy as mine and using more precise instruments than me watching a video of my gps. my approach doesn’t go to hundreths of a second, so i might be “way” off!

    what exactly is fast out of the hole? what’s slow? are you suggesting that 2 seconds faster to 40mph is the difference between awesome and sluggish? and that time to 40mph is something you’ve acknowledged is a “guess.” post a video to see more precisely. if you don’t have a GoPro, i bet you have a cellphone camera. what if it’s only 1 second?

    what’s fast top speed, what’s slow? you claim your YarCraft (errr…Calico Cat?), hits 60mph top speed. for a true deep-V that’s great and it’s faster than many comparable 19′ deep-Vs. of course, yours is a smaller boat than a 1910 or a 619, which matters in other ways too. i had a 19′ deep-V that ran 58mph with a 200hp Opti, and a couple 19′ mod-Vs that would do 65mph with 200 ponies; that was fun until i realized two things: 1) it’s almost never calm, and 2) fishing and boat racing are entirely different things.

    SLE
    Posts: 23
    #1569337

    Fair enough, there’s no doubt the old Optis are loud and oil is expensive. My HPDI was definitely quieter at idle.

    Plane time is definitely subjective, I count being on plane as soon as the bow comes down or as some would say, the boat breaks over. Frankly, watching your video is pretty tough to tell, it would honesty be easier watching from another boat. What I do know is by 30 mph, most boats are well up on plane. My WX 1900 was there between 20-24 mph depending on prop and how hard I was accelerating. I was questioning the numbers because I expected by 30 mph, you were also well up and on plane.

    Here’s what I do know, loaded like a tourney start;
    1895 Yarcraft Storm w/ 225 opti would run 58-59mph at 5700 rpm 21p tempest
    Skeeter WX1900 w/ 200 hpdi would run 49-50mph with three different props. 5400rpm with 21s (tempest and a Yamaha pro series) and 5800 ish with a 19p. I couldn’t find a report of anyone that seen anything over 53-54mph.
    Bass Cat Calico / Yarcraft 186fsx w/ 200 Opti ran 59.7mph at 5740 rpm 21p Tempest. It’ll touch 57-58mph every day of the week. As a photo boat, they touched 61.7mph with a stock tempest. Of course that was an unloaded boat.

    I live in skeeter land at the lake and this is what I’m hearing from their owners.
    2100s with a 250 are low to mid 50 mph boats.
    2100s with a 300 are high 50 mph boats with a few reports saying 60mph or a tick over.
    Update to the 1910 and 2190s didn’t change top speed much if at all. But much improved in many other ways. I know just looking at them, They fixed 2/3s of my complaints on my 1900 when they came out with the 1910 and there’s a lot to like about them.

    All BS aside, the only boat I bought a hydrofoil for was my WX1900 and I see a lot of other skeeters running hydrofoils. I could never get my skeeter to air out like my yarcrafts. No matter what did, I was always dragging a lot of the hull in the water. I know for a fact this why they don’t run the speeds some of the other brands see. Hence, this tells me they need to build more lift into the hulls. It’s an outside observation. I notice the same concession on A couple other brands also.

    There are lots of videos of dare I say other flagship walleye boats running high 60s to low 70s. I think fast is a perspective consideration that considers boat size and hp to other comparable boats brands.

    I realize I’m being pretty critical. I’ve been critical about my Bass Cat also on things they could improve and sent that list on to them, hull performance wasn’t one of them.

    If you want a video, I guess we’ll have to resurrect this next year because I’m likely done for the year. One thing you probably definitely have on me is your season likely isn’t over, ha ha.

    I think I’ve derailed this thread way far enough at this point. Hope nobody took anything personally, maybe somebody can start a thread on trucks or beer so I have another thread to focus my evening couch time reading and ribbing others.

    Have a good night gentlemen.

    skeeter20
    Winnie/Grand Rapids,MN
    Posts: 902
    #1569375

    If my post came off as an attack it was never meant to be and you do make some good points. There are a lot of great boats on the market which makes it fun and companies always pushing to be better. I was just stating some simple facts on hulls. I’ve had the ZX2050 that ran 64-65 with a 300 hpdi, WX2100 with 300 Offshore and jackplate that ran 62-63 and now my WX2190 that runs 57-58. Would I like to run over 60 again sure but I will take rough water ride for a few mph.

    Other thing to keep in mind is most guys post top speeds are with 1/4 tanks of full and light gear. My boats are always loaded up and full fuel. I fish a lot of tournaments and this year the only boat that past me was the nitro w/350 and it took 6 miles for him to go by. Had a 620 with Opti 250 mirror me for 12 miles. Th

    One reason boat companies are cutting down on lift is people complain about porposing in mid range. Yes it comes down to trim and prop.

    The good news is the 2016 WX2060 with addition of the SHO 250 and either a set back plate or jackplate will be pushing 60. )

    Michael C. Winther
    Reedsburg, WI
    Posts: 1502
    #1569390

    obviously you’re right that hull design is key to performance. (much moreso than the color of the motor!) downside of a hull design that doesn’t ride up just on a pad at WOT is being slower. the boats i had with high-perf pads were definitely fun, but they also required very active attention and driving skill when hitting that max speed.
    so of course an upside to a bit more hull in the water is that the performance is much more consistent and easier to drive – no feathering the throttle to max it out without porpoising, no chine walk, no trimming down just to cross a boat wake or make a turn, etc., etc. i like the consistency in exchange for some mph. i’m probably getting old.

    and yes, i’m still fishing. we’re heading up to LotW on 10/23 for a week. i’m looking forward to testing the WX1910’s mettle in cold, windy, wavy conditions. video at 11… ;-)

    fisherman-j
    Northern MN
    Posts: 323
    #1569636

    I have a 1910 with a 9.9 kicker. I had to get a foil added after porpoising after mid-range speeds – no matter how much I trimmed down. With a medium load it will go about 48, but I mostly run on LOTW and would much rather give up a few MPH than sacrifice ride.

    SBC has my 1910, playing with props and moving the rear battery to the center of the boat. They still think I’ll want the foil even after they play with props and what not.

    To me, as a first time glass owner, a new boat shouldn’t have to have a foil. Shouldn’t they engineer the boat to be able to handle a kicker, full livewell and four people in the boat? It was a porpoising machine pre-foil and the foil makes a tremendous difference in the ride. With barely a touch the hull glides. Pre-foil I had it trimmed 3/4 to all the way down. Post-foil I’m about a 1/4 or a 1/3 trimmed down depending on load. I generally run about 4-5k RPMS.

    Anyway, over all I like the boat – except fishing in the bow. I liked fishing in my 1900 Pro-V’s bow much better (not as high up and a little more room). I’m tempted to try a 620 instead. Not sure if it’s a “grass is greener” syndrome or not.

    PS – where do you get an 8′ rod stored? I tried the side locker and main rod locker with no luck.

    muskeye
    Duluth, Mn
    Posts: 306
    #1569662

    Should be able to get six 10 or 12 footers in the port side rod holster I believe.

    francisco4
    Holmen, WI
    Posts: 3607
    #1569671

    Should be able to get six 10 or 12 footers in the port side rod holster I believe.

    X2

    Does nt Matter
    Posts: 3
    #1569672

    There is no way you can fit six 10-12 footers in the port side rod holster. I have owned the 1910 since March and can’t fit 3 7ft rods.

    For the money, this boat is a big disappointment. It is a dog out of the hole,requires a foil to correct porpoising issues, and the ride in rough water leaves alot to be desired.

    I have had trailer problems,windshield parts replaced, cooler replaced, carpet repaired, wiring issues, glove box repaired, etc…

    My previous tin boat was 1/4 the cost, but 2 times the boat. 2 foot shorter, and rode 10 times better. If the wind blows more than 5 miles an hour, you may as well park this thing at the dock.

    Mine is for sale, but I have a feeling I am going to have a hard time getting rid of it.

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1569682

    There is no way you can fit six 10-12 footers in the port side rod holster. I have owned the 1910 since March and can’t fit 3 7ft rods.

    For the money, this boat is a big disappointment. It is a dog out of the hole,requires a foil to correct porpoising issues, and the ride in rough water leaves alot to be desired.

    I have had trailer problems,windshield parts replaced, cooler replaced, carpet repaired, wiring issues, glove box repaired, etc…

    My previous tin boat was 1/4 the cost, but 2 times the boat. 2 foot shorter, and rode 10 times better. If the wind blows more than 5 miles an hour, you may as well park this thing at the dock.

    Mine is for sale, but I have a feeling I am going to have a hard time getting rid of it.

    rotflol rotflol
    This was good for a laugh. Much needed after today.

    Dutchboy
    Central Mn.
    Posts: 16658
    #1569683

    I’ve got a 2004 Crestliner with a 200hp Suzuki and 10k i’ll give you for it. I’d give you more but apparently it’s not worth that much.

    crave2fish
    NULL
    Posts: 13
    #1569697

    Just when I was thinking I would like to step up to the WX 1910, someone throws out that they had numerous issues with it (Thanks for the information). My WX 1850 is a good boat but not a speed demon (43 mph). I had a lot of issues with porpoising with the stock painted stainless prop, but found a s.s. polished prop the eliminated most of the issue. Now I’m rethinking what direction to go.

    Michael C. Winther
    Reedsburg, WI
    Posts: 1502
    #1569737

    To me, as a first time glass owner, a new boat shouldn’t have to have a foil. Shouldn’t they engineer the boat to be able to handle a kicker, full livewell and four people in the boat? It was a porpoising machine pre-foil and the foil makes a tremendous difference in the ride. With barely a touch the hull glides.

    that’s strange. i never had any porpoising issues with mine like that. even with a kicker and full livewell and people in the jumpseats it really only impacted the angle getting on plane and not mid-range running. what side is your kicker on? it’s definitely frustrating when things don’t just work right. and, if $75 = happiness? be happy?
    of course boat builders should create hulls for the most obvious use – and the whole WX-series is very focused on features for fishing from the rear/cockpit, which means lots of weight back there. plus, i think the WX1910 was engineered for a V6 200hp SHO that never materialized. the in-line V4 F200 it’s paired with as a result is a different engine. so if it takes a hydrofoil to add a little lift, meh, okay. and personally, i haven’t seen very many boats that don’t benefit from a hydrofoil.

    PS – where do you get an 8′ rod stored? I tried the side locker and main rod locker with no luck.

    i can fit multiple 8′ rods in my center locker. it’s tight, and i have to squeeze them past the lip, but once inside they fit without being bent.
    i can put my 5 longest rods (8’6″-9’6″) in the side rod holster. the biggest challenge with the side holster is actually fitting the oversized reels (such as the Tranx) near each other, not the length of the rods.

    fisherman-j
    Northern MN
    Posts: 323
    #1569832

    Kicker is on the port side. It didn’t porpoise the first few times running at mid-range – but I had it trimmed down quite a bit. Then, out of the blue, I couldn’t get it trimmed down enough to stop bouncing at mid-range. To me, my “stereotype” of a hydrafoil is a band-aid for something not right.

    Again, it’s a very good riding boat and I’m mostly (75%) happy with it. Much better quality and storage than my Pro-V. To me having to have a hyrdafoil on a newly designed boat isn’t right.

    I tried an 8′ rod in the center locker. It was too snug for my liking.

    nailswi
    Waunakee, WI
    Posts: 165
    #1569914

    I’ve got a 2004 Crestliner with a 200hp Suzuki and 10k i’ll give you for it. I’d give you more but apparently it’s not worth that much.

    LMAO, I was gonna offer to trade my tin boat even up for his WX1910. Sounds like he’d be getting a steal. Shoot, I’ll even throw in my tow vehicle.

    Does nt Matter
    Posts: 3
    #1569948

    I am glad a few of you think it is funny.

    Keep drinking the Skeeter kool-aid. Every 1910 owner above has admitted they need a foil on a $50k plus brand new boat to get on plane.

    1 person somehow found a way to fit an 8ft rod somewhere in this boat, yet everyone else admits it is too tight for their liking, or won’t fit. The problem isn’t getting rods in the holster, but a terrible design on getting them out. One way they either snag on the terrible rats nest of sloppy cabling or hoses, and the other you would need to take the back seat out or windshield off to get your rods out.

    The other hilarious thing is when my trailer tire came off it’s axle and crossed into oncoming traffic. The trailer had less than 10 miles on it at this point.

    I would gladly trade either of you for your used tin boat, cash or tow vehicle.

    You might laugh now and be money ahead in the short term, but in the long run, I would have the last laugh.

    Skeeter missed the mark on this one big time. I welcome anyone who thinks I am joking or is considering this lemon to take a ride with me.Of course if the wind blows, we won’t be going out and if we are trailering, you will need to sign a waiver.

    nailswi
    Waunakee, WI
    Posts: 165
    #1569958

    say when and where, i will trade my 2000 crestliner even up for your skeeter. And dont feel bad about dumping your lemon on me, I’ll take the risk.

    nailswi
    Waunakee, WI
    Posts: 165
    #1569959

    Now, on a serious note. If you bought your 1910 new in March and are having this many issues, why haven’t you gone back to your dealer or contacted Skeeter?

    Dean Marshall
    Chippewa Falls WI /Ramsey MN
    Posts: 5854
    #1569994

    Does nt Matter

    Happy to visit and or offer assistance! Never funny when ANYONE is disappointed with our favorite fishing passion, regardless of what brand is stamped on the side of it!

    [email protected]

    mxskeeter
    SW Wisconsin
    Posts: 3810
    #1570028

    I am glad a few of you think it is funny.

    Keep drinking the Skeeter kool-aid. Every 1910 owner above has admitted they need a foil on a $50k plus brand new boat to get on plane.

    1 person somehow found a way to fit an 8ft rod somewhere in this boat, yet everyone else admits it is too tight for their liking, or won’t fit. The problem isn’t getting rods in the holster, but a terrible design on getting them out. One way they either snag on the terrible rats nest of sloppy cabling or hoses, and the other you would need to take the back seat out or windshield off to get your rods out.

    The other hilarious thing is when my trailer tire came off it’s axle and crossed into oncoming traffic. The trailer had less than 10 miles on it at this point.

    I would gladly trade either of you for your used tin boat, cash or tow vehicle.

    You might laugh now and be money ahead in the short term, but in the long run, I would have the last laugh.

    Skeeter missed the mark on this one big time. I welcome anyone who thinks I am joking or is considering this lemon to take a ride with me.Of course if the wind blows, we won’t be going out and if we are trailering, you will need to sign a waiver.

    Just curious what possessed you to buy the Skeeter in the first place. Your complaints sound just like a post from 2 years ago only it was on the MX1825. The guy’s dealer wouldn’t do a thing for him. Skeeter gave him a new boat but that didn’t cure his complaints either. Most of the complaints I see/hear about are on the ez loader trailers Skeeter uses. A good dealer is worth more to the boat buyer than any boat company.

    Michael C. Winther
    Reedsburg, WI
    Posts: 1502
    #1570193

    I welcome anyone who thinks I am joking or is considering this lemon to take a ride with me.Of course if the wind blows, we won’t be going out and if we are trailering, you will need to sign a waiver.

    ok, i guess that’s motivation for me to get around to some video editing.
    as they say, “no pic, no fish.”

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