shorter clamp bolt for Minn Kota transom mount?

  • pool2fool
    Inactive
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 1709
    #1678012

    Installing a trolling motor in a 15ft glass tri-hull. I’ve got a 2-stroke Merc 50 outboard with tilt & trim already mounted on the transom, and space is tight. I’m able to fit the mounting bracket for my Minn Kota on the starboard side of the transom, and the first clamp bolt (nearest the outboard) fits fine — but because of the angle of the outboard “splash well,” there’s not enough clearance to use the stock clamp bolt on the far starboard side. It’s a nice thick transom, so I don’t need the bolt to be anywhere that length.

    This isn’t my boat, but the attached pic shows a similar transom/splash well area. You can see how the sides are angled in, leaving less forward space the further out toward the edges of the transom.

    And this is what the bolts look like: http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/2881380-screw-clamp-washer-kit/

    Any ideas? I was thinking I could just cut the bolt down to size, but I think I’d have to save the clamp end, and then there would be no “wing” or “knob” to turn the bolt?

    Attachments:
    1. transom.jpg

    Bullheadfinder
    Posts: 56
    #1678089

    How much room do you need to allow the stock bolt to fit? Could maybe mount a 2×6 on the outside of the transom but leave it higher than the current transom so you could mount the trolling motor to the 2×6.

    Bassn Dan
    Posts: 979
    #1678095

    First off, are you sure you’ll have enough room to steer the motor mounting it so close to the other motor? A bow mount may be a better choice.

    As to the bolt, I think you’re looking at it backwards. You want to SAVE the KNOB end and cut the threaded end so the length of the bolt with the knob on it is what you need to clear the transom and have enough threads to tighten the clamp. After you cut it to length use a bench grinder, etc. to reduce the tip on threaded ended to look like the original end so it fits in the washer hole.

    P.S. Probably a good idea to dip the bolt in water as you grind it to prevent overheating it.

    pool2fool
    Inactive
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 1709
    #1678107

    Thanks for the ideas folks!

    Had not thought about the 2×6 idea. I’ve yet to get a precise measurement for how much additional room I’d need. Would prefer something a little cleaner, but perhaps that could work in a pinch.

    @Bassn Dan — Yes, that makes better sense to save the knob end. My neighbor has a bench grinder and I know he’d be willing to help me with that part.

    As for the steering — the outboard is flanked on either side by pretty substantial brackets, which creates a good amount of cushion. I turned the steering wheel both ways and it seems OK – maybe a small amount of reduced travel when turning in that direction. The primary purpose of this motor is simply to get me on the metro area lakes that don’t allow gas motors. If I have to remove the TM when I head out to the river or bigger lakes, I could live with that.

    Took some pics this morning, attached. With a shorter bolt, once I get it 95% tightened I think I’ll also be able to slide the TM mount further toward the starboard end of the transom.

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_3326.jpg

    2. image1.jpg

    pool2fool
    Inactive
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 1709
    #1678841

    Trimmed the bolt to less than half its original length, ground the end down to fit in the cup, re-threaded the rough end. DONE! toast

    Thanks again to Bassn Dan for setting me straight on which end to save doah

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