One reason I originally bought a Strikemaster auger was the blade exchange program, now that’s been discontinued for a while.
I was told by a service center that you can’t effectively resharpen Lazer blades, so when they get beat up and/or don’t cut, just toss them and buy a new set.
Any thoughts on this?
One reason I originally bought a Strikemaster auger was the blade exchange program, now that’s been discontinued for a while.
I was told by a service center that you can’t effectively resharpen Lazer blades, so when they get beat up and/or don’t cut, just toss them and buy a new set.
Any thoughts on this?
I have a 3 stage knife sharpener. Handles fillet knives up to thicker buck knives. I tried it on my straight auger blades. And it worked wonders
You can sharpen them. Here’s a previous thread about this.
You can sharpen them. Here’s a previous thread about this.
Thanks.
Have you used any resharpened blades yet?
Yes, they seem to work fine to me.
There’s a guy in Illinois named Fran Connelly that sharpens Lazer blades. Probably one of the few. I’ve sent him a set a few years ago, and will again when it’s time.
I sharpened a set of Lazer blades by hand and was shocked that they cut when I was done.
I taped some wet dry sand paper to a round can… sea foam can I think. Then followed the original bevel of the wide bevel till the edge was cleaned up. Then tilted the blades up slightly to create a very fine bevel the width of a hair or piece of paper. Maybe another 15 or 20 degrees higher than what the main bevel is. This fattens up the edge a little and makes it a little more durable.
I think i used 400, 600, and 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, getting it wet for the final polishing steps. I read the instructions on a different ice fishing forum. Had a couple other sets and figured I might as well try. These blades hit frozen bottom on a flowage on accident and were DULL. I cut with them on my entire red lake trip in December and they cut well. The test will be to see if I can repeat it or not.
Fyi the angle of the wide bevel isn’t that important. It’s the angle of the fine secondary bevel that controls how much the blade will bite and how long the edge will last.
Tucker
I sharpened a set of Lazer blades by hand and was shocked that they cut when I was done.
I taped some wet dry sand paper to a round can… sea foam can I think. Then followed the original bevel of the wide bevel till the edge was cleaned up. Then tilted the blades up slightly to create a very fine bevel the width of a hair or piece of paper. Maybe another 15 or 20 degrees higher than what the main bevel is. This fattens up the edge a little and makes it a little more durable.
I think i used 400, 600, and 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, getting it wet for the final polishing steps. I read the instructions on a different ice fishing forum. Had a couple other sets and figured I might as well try. These blades hit frozen bottom on a flowage on accident and were DULL. I cut with them on my entire red lake trip in December and they cut well. The test will be to see if I can repeat it or not.
Fyi the angle of the wide bevel isn’t that important. It’s the angle of the fine secondary bevel that controls how much the blade will bite and how long the edge will last.
Tucker
Interesting, thanks for posting this. Do you sharpen your Nils blade/s too?
Joe, I have not tried sharpening my Nils blades. The Nils blades are just now starting to feel slightly dull. I plan to send them to Frank Deluca to have them sharpened before next season.
I think the same principles would apply but I don’t want to mess those blades up, and it seems sharpening the blades might be a little harder being the whole head unit is attached. I’m sure it’s possible but I don’t have the confidence in doing them yet.
Tucker
Sometimes you’ll need to shim resharpend blades if the pitch is slightly off. A piece of sheet metal or even doubled up strip off a pop can will do the trick just put it under the leading edge. Also if they don’t cut good right away a few strokes with a hone on the face can do wonders. Touching up the backside can cause problems. My dad has a 400 grit grinder wheel and as long as you’re careful they cut just as good as new.
I tried sharpening my Nils but not good. Sent it to Frank Deluca….
Now it’s like going through butter
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
