Actually, my response “Weekly Carwashes” is probably the most constructive of anybody’s here….
And yes it is! Today’s vehicles are far superior to those from the 60’s and 70’s that seemed to rust out within 2-3 years. As you suggested weekly washes blasting out the “crud” underneath and in crevices is all that should be needed to keep it mostly rust free. Conveniently, during spring, summer, fall…salt free times, you can go much longer than weekly washes without concern.
My new truck came from Canada and they put Fluid Film on and it has to be touched up every year cost me about $20 for 2 cans. look into it
I used CorrosionX on mine,shows very little rust on frame.Google Kellsport for the Fluid Film kit.FF is good,but has a funky smell to it(wool wax).
Otherwise nothing is safe from the evils of salt.
You both have nothing constructive to add in this thread from the get go so keep your pie holes shut. At least I submitted a legitimate response to the Op. So take your BS elsewhere.
Mmm… pie. 
I use fluid film. 4 years of no new rust.
I’ve heard that whatever the product is it begins to separate from the metal and either falls off or actually holds in the salty brine in (not good)
Aluminum does not rust and is plenty strong. Titanium would be really good, does not rust, stronger than steal and light (spendy though) Oh- bronze! Chevy should make a bronze truck–cheap, does not rust, strong as heck. Very heavy though-oh well just make a bigger engine.
Remember Ziebart ? Are they still around doing this ? We have an undercoating we install… but it’s called “Soundguard” not “Rustguard” for good reason. In MN and all salt belt states, unless you disassemble and coat every piece completely, you will have rust and for you aluminum lovers, corrosion. It’s a matter of physics and chemistry.
Whatever you do don’t lean on those aluminum fords!
I talked to a local shop and this guy is pretty sharp. His advice was to not do any undercoating, but do wash the undercarriage regularly in the winter. Use the wand and get down and spray off the salt and crud underneath. He said most people don’t like to get on the ground and do it, but he felt regularly washing off the salt was the best. Wipe the door jams with a paper towels and they won’t freeze.
I asked him if he knew about Fluid Film and he said he didn’t, but if I wanted he would put my truck on the hoist and put it on for me.
We have a little car wash in town with the wands, so I might just don my insulated bibs this winter and bring my foam pad and try to keep up with it.
I talked to a local shop and this guy is pretty sharp. His advice was to not do any undercoating, but do wash the undercarriage regularly in the winter.
We have a little car wash in town with the wands, so I might just don my insulated bibs this winter and bring my foam pad and try to keep up with it.
This is just what munchy and I said earlier…
“Actually, my response “Weekly Carwashes” is probably the most constructive of anybody’s here…. (munchy)
And yes it is! Today’s vehicles are far superior to those from the 60’s and 70’s that seemed to rust out within 2-3 years. As you suggested weekly washes blasting out the “crud” underneath and in crevices is all that should be needed to keep it mostly rust free.”
You could do the insulated bibs and do the “wand”, but even Holiday car washes have a good undercarriage “blast” that gets out the crud while you still sit in your vehicle using your phone to post on IDO. 
Remember Ziebart ? Are they still around doing this ?
Remember “Rusty Jones”?
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This will totally get frowned on the best I have used is mix up diesel fuel and waste oil 50-50 and spray the underneath every fall. Pull the rubber plugs out of the door bottoms if they are installed and use Backcoat [ it aint cheap $115 a gallon ] its what is used in restorations to stop and inhibit rust. To apply it either pull the door panels loose or use a long piece of rigid plastic tubing and syringe and shove it up inside the drain holes to coat the inside of the doors, this stuff really creeps and will coat the lower half of the door inside.
The last vehicle I had rust proofed/undercoated was a ’01 F-150. It was pointless and added extra weight to the vehicle. Made the cab quieter though.
Didn’t treat the ’03 F-150 and it was traded in with a rust free body in 2015. The inside of the tailgate had some rust under the spray in bed liner because the drain holes were plugged from the bed liner. The running boards did rust away to nothing though.
Before that, a dealer rust proofed a ’94 T-bird and they plugged up drain holes. It survived though.
Seeing a pattern, plugged holes causing problems, I don’t bother with it anymore because it caused more harm than good. Plus given the galvanized bodies on all those vehicles since the ’90s.
Bronze-I’m teelin you. Stronger than steal! Will not rust ever! Cheap!
Remember the Delorian? Yea Stainless Steel. 50 to 70k for a new truck that will be a rust bucket in ten years. The Aluminum Ford will corrode away as fast as the rest. Wash it underneath.
I have used the old motor oil and diesel fuel mixture as it penetrates the tight areas.
Could someone please show me a pic of corroded aluminum? Steal rusts, holes, chunks falling off-I have a friend with an aluminum boat from about 1950-solid as ever. I have seen aluminum discolor, Pictures please and nothing grainy with bigfoot or loch ness next to it!
Could someone please show me a pic of corroded aluminum? Steal rusts, holes, chunks falling off-I have a friend with an aluminum boat from about 1950-solid as ever. I have seen aluminum discolor, Pictures please and nothing grainy with bigfoot or loch ness next to it!
A quick google search revealed these…
And yes, I understand these are the more extreme examples but it just proves corrosion still can happen.
I’m not a naysayer about aluminium, as it does have its benefits, however I don’t believe it should be used for everything.
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Look at the rear gate on any ford expedition usually around the license plate,the gate is aluminum and they corrode,its white instead of rust color
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