Rough water boat control

  • lindyrig79
    Forest Lake / Lake Mille Lacs
    Posts: 5669
    #2276346

    I went from a 18.5 Crestliner Sportfish to a 18.5 Ranger Reata. I like the Reata in almost every way but the one thing I’ve noticed is I have speared waves and taken water over the bow way easier when in rough water. This has only happened at low speeds, once I punch the throttle the bow pops up and handles the waves nicely.

    Is this just due to hull design and being lower to the water or am I doing something wrong?

    Ron F
    Rochester MN
    Posts: 69
    #2276352

    It’s the design. You get better at avoiding it over time but it can still happen. The boat is a bit nose heavy with the windshield a little more forward and trolling batteries up front.

    lindyrig79
    Forest Lake / Lake Mille Lacs
    Posts: 5669
    #2276396

    Yeah the main thing is very slow speeds. Trolling into the waves or trying to get out of shallow water (where I can’t punch the throttle or the prop would dig)

    Thanks for the reply Ron

    bullcans
    Northfield MN
    Posts: 1990
    #2276404

    I have a 619 Ranger Fisherman. Found the same issue at first. Play with the trim at different speeds and conditions. You’ll eventually find the sweet spot. Porpoising is another factor. Not sure if you have that issue or not. Same thing though, find the sweet spot.
    Good luck, You’ll get it figured out

    Matt Moen
    South Minneapolis
    Posts: 4196
    #2276422

    I have a 619 Ranger Fisherman. Found the same issue at first. Play with the trim at different speeds and conditions. You’ll eventually find the sweet spot. Porpoising is another factor. Not sure if you have that issue or not. Same thing though, find the sweet spot.
    Good luck, You’ll get it figured out

    This. I have a Reata and I came from a tin boat. It takes some adjustment. I found that you can punch it, get the boat on plane, and stay on top of the waves at very low speeds. I have 3 batteries up front which keeps the nose level but you need to get it on plane first.

    Some guys will run trim tabs but I don’t think you need for the boat.

    lindyrig79
    Forest Lake / Lake Mille Lacs
    Posts: 5669
    #2276520

    Thanks BC, thanks Matt

    I was wondering about trim tabs. I’d rather not put them on if I don’t need. But I was taking the kids out for some slip bobbers in the evening the other night probably 3 ft waves. It was rough but just on the edge where spot lock was still effective. Anyway on the NE corner of Mille Lacs it stays shallow for a good ways so I can’t fully control the trim and throttle how I’d like without digging the prop into the sand. We speared a wave pretty good and soaked everything pretty good was a little bit of a buzz kill for the kids cause it wasn’t overly warm out. Never happened before in the Sportfish.

    I’ll play around with the trim and I’m sure I can do better with overall control. But feel like my hands are kinda tied in shallow water.

    wkw
    Posts: 699
    #2276523

    I had a Tuffy 2060 Osprey w/a 250 Verado on it that I had to “learn” to drive. Once I did I loved that beast!

    B-man
    Posts: 5710
    #2276542

    Trim tabs will be of no help. They are meant to put the bow down even farther, and to help level the boat if you have a list. At trolling speeds they really don’t do anything at all other than maybe slow you down a couple tenths of a mile an hour.

    Ranger boats in general are known for spearing waves. Not much you can do other than keeping weight off the bow.

    If you’re trolling with your main, you could try trimming up more and giving her a extra throttle when you see a steep wave coming.

    It will push the stern down and the bow up, but it will take some significant throttle to be of much help.

    Ripjiggen
    Posts: 11346
    #2276583

    Don’t drive directly into wave when going slow. Take some angle will eliminate your issue.

    Not all Rangers are built equal and not all rangers spear waves. Use that big glass bottom to smash waves outward and not nose first.

    You will figure it out.

    Jason
    Posts: 790
    #2276597

    All you can do is load everything and everyone in the back of the boat and trim your main motor up to raise up the front. Just wait until you spear a good one at 20 mph and have to deal with a 6″ deep floor wave! Longer and deeper boats have less issue of course.

    Matt Moen
    South Minneapolis
    Posts: 4196
    #2276633

    All you can do is load everything and everyone in the back of the boat and trim your main motor up to raise up the front. Just wait until you spear a good one at 20 mph and have to deal with a 6″ deep floor wave! Longer and deeper boats have less issue of course.

    I’ve never speared a wave like this in my Reata. I have had one come over the bow when you are on spot lock though.

    The hulls are meant to push the water out and away from the boat. Once you get used to timing the waves a guy should be ok.

    Ripjiggen
    Posts: 11346
    #2276673

    All you can do is load everything and everyone in the back of the boat and trim your main motor up to raise up the front. Just wait until you spear a good one at 20 mph and have to deal with a 6″ deep floor wave! Longer and deeper boats have less issue of course.

    If you spear a wave at 20mph you are not driving correctly.

    MX1825
    Posts: 3319
    #2276704

    All you can do is load everything and everyone in the back of the boat and trim your main motor up to raise up the front. Just wait until you spear a good one at 20 mph and have to deal with a 6″ deep floor wave! Longer and deeper boats have less issue of course.

    That had to be one rough ride at 20mph. shock

    walleyesforme
    Posts: 327
    #2276714

    Before the boat I have now I had one of those 20 foot Larson FX series boats. It acted a lot like the way you describe your boat. Once it was up on plane it was an absolute beast but if you were in shallow water and couldn’t keep the bow up you were completely screwed if the waves were of any real size. One time on red lake we came out of the river into the channel and proceeded to take every wave over the bow. There was no way to turn around until we got into the deeper water so we had to just go for it. By the time we got turned around there was so much water in the cockpit I was grabbing stuff so it didn’t float out the back. That bow heavy attitude and a laundry list of problems was enough to sell that boat instantly. No wonder they only made them for a few years. You’ll learn to deal with it and when to and when not to go out.

    Jason
    Posts: 790
    #2276718

    I’m not sure what motor and prop your running but back in the day I had good luck with a “high five” merc prop with its ability to hold better and create lift in the bow when you want to trim up without cavitating like a normal 3 blade would.

    Jason
    Posts: 790
    #2276719

    Double post…

    walleyesforme
    Posts: 327
    #2276726

    I’ll also add that if it’s shallow enough that you can’t get up on plane and there’s 3 foot waves chances are your probably hitting bottom in the troughs of the waves.

    John Rasmussen
    Blaine
    Posts: 6244
    #2276744

    So I have spent most of my life wishing I had a Ranger or other type glass boat for the ride in rough water. This thread has me wondering now. I have a extra deep tin boat (Targa) and it does well in rough water relatively. Are these shallower boats you guys are talking about?

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 16734
    #2276745

    Are these shallower boats you guys are talking about?

    The OP specifically mentioned a Ranger Reata 18.5. I think its more of a fish/ski combo type boat, rather than a Ranger specifically designed for fishing purposes.

    tswoboda
    Posts: 8307
    #2276747

    Reatta is the same hull as the Angler series but set up for fish/ski. Fisherman series is the more big water capable line.

    Don’t remember exact years but 620s from around 2005-2007 ish were notorious for spearing waves. The old 618 side console were a shallow low sidewall hull as well.

    walleyesforme
    Posts: 327
    #2276784

    I believe it’s the 2007 620 that’s widely know as the worst hull ranger ever designed. I believe they only made it for one year. There’s also a huge difference between an 18.5 foot boat and a boat in the 20 foot class. Not even a fair comparison. Aluminum boats do seem to float like a cork but that also makes the more difficult to fish out of and handle when it’s windy, they act like a big kite. Also with fiberglass you don’t get those spine crushing impacts and you don’t have to wear rain gear on a windy day. I’ve had both and have aluminum now but next year will be back in a glass boat and can’t wait. The difference is night and day.

    lindyrig79
    Forest Lake / Lake Mille Lacs
    Posts: 5669
    #2276791

    Thanks for all the input guys. I believe most of this is spot on.

    Mine is a 2014 Reata. My confidence level in rough water has grown over the years, but have to admit taking a couple over the bow has reduced my confidence a bit.

    In doing some reading and digging up old threads it does appear that this issue has been brought up in the past as well. No boat is perfect for all applications there are pros and cons. I am confident when I punch the throttle I can lift the bow and handle most anything I’d get myself into.

    I have a 150 Yamaha 4 stroke and 3 blade stainless prop. Interesting on the 5 blade suggestion I will have to consider that and/or other props too.

    B-man
    Posts: 5710
    #2276815

    Keep in mind that 5 blade props grip awesome going forward, but you’ll have very little thrust in reverse.

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