Rookie mistake. Wet boat suggestions needed

  • Jwick
    Posts: 8
    #1755093

    I am completely new to owning a boat and needed to store it outside this winter. I pulled the cover over tight and lifted the jack up all the way Hopping for a mild winter. Well let’s just say we had a big snow and I finally got a chance check it.

    The tarp had like 100 gallons of water sitting on the back end. My brother and law noticed it a few days earlier and noticed the plug wasn’t pulled. He took that out letting the water that came through out. I got all the water off the tarp and inspected the inside. There is solid blocks of ice in the rear and all the carpet is soaked.

    I took all the wet life jackets, and other gear out, but it’s too wet to pull the boat out.

    Am I just completely screwed or what do you recommend?

    Dutchboy
    Central Mn.
    Posts: 16650
    #1755094

    Where are you located?

    Get it pulled into a heated shop. You have to get the ice melted before you can determine anything. Alum boat? Fiberglass?

    Had you winterized the motor?

    biggill
    East Bethel, MN
    Posts: 11321
    #1755096

    I Made a similar mistake a few times with my crestliner with the exception of forgetting to pull the plug. I’d be surprised if anything is damaged.

    Just learn from your mistakes for next year. If you need help and are set on doing it yourself, start a post here next fall and you’ll get tons of great advice.

    buckybadger
    Upper Midwest
    Posts: 8167
    #1755097

    Get some fans going and park the whole rig in a heated shop as was posted. As it melts, I’d shop vac out the water every hour or so.

    What kind of boat is it?

    Jwick
    Posts: 8
    #1755098

    Thanks guys! It’s a early 90s Lund explorer aluminum. Nothing fancy and perfect for learning these lessons. I am in IL. We are expected to have 50 degree weather until Thursday so I pulled the cover off the rear to let some sun and air hit it.

    For now I’ve put 4 more pavers under the front jack to give it a steeper angle and put one of my chairs in the rear spot which is right where it sunk. It looks like the problem would be reduced if we get anymore snow.

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3789
    #1755099

    one thing I would be looking at first when you get the ice out of it is where the transom meets the sides of the boat and the bottom of the boat.
    all of that ice could of pushed it apart making it unusable.
    while the ice in it now is melting,look for water coming out around any of the joints where the transom is fastened.

    once its done draining,I would sit the boat level and refill it with water to be sure there are no leaks anywhere.
    best of luck to ya !!

    tim hurley
    Posts: 5829
    #1755105

    Don’t vacuum next to gas unless you want to create a bomb.

    Jwick
    Posts: 8
    #1755111

    All tanks and batteries were removed. Motor was winterized.

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1755115

    Sheldon, you seen transoms compromised like that before? My rookie mind tells me there would be plenty of room for ice to expand other than out, unless the water migrated into the transom area from hydrostatic pressure, but arent most welded on the inside? ???

    Now your bilge, livewell pump etc could have been, and the connections back there would concern me going forward.

    Damage has been done at this point, on the warmer days i might opt for some thick mil plastic to cover the boat and get the greenhouse effect happening to melt faster with plug out.

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3789
    #1755123

    Sheldon, you seen transoms compromised like that before? My rookie mind tells me there would be plenty of room for ice to expand other than out, unless the water migrated into the transom area from hydrostatic pressure, but arent most welded on the inside? ???

    Now your bilge, livewell pump etc could have been, and the connections back there would concern me going forward.

    Damage has been done at this point, on the warmer days i might opt for some thick mil plastic to cover the boat and get the greenhouse effect happening to melt faster with plug out.

    yes,I have seen transoms that have failed from heavy ice in the boat,the problem starts with the wood in the transom,it soaks up the water before it freezes,when it turns to ice it acts like a jack and starts pushing things apart.
    freeze thaw cycles make the problem worse,water gets into the expanded areas and when it freezes back up it jacks the parts apart even further and repeats itself with each cycle.

    one thing to remember as well Nick,water weighs around eight pounds a gallon,if you were to have even fifty gallons of water in the back of a small boat thats four hundred pounds that expands in area when it freezes.
    that is a lot area to take up the difference in size and it has to go somewhere,up and out in all directions and nothing can stop it.

    you could argue that the ice will follow the shape of the boat and not cause any damage but there are too many places where that ice can get a toe hold and cause problems,think of where that water is sitting in every nook and cranny before it freezes.

    also think of the wedging action between the transom and bench ahead of it,that is a longitudinal wedging action,welded hull or not,something has to give.
    it may be years before it shows up on some boats but by that time it was forgotten that the boat had been filled with ice,hope that makes sense.

    chamberschamps
    Mazomanie, WI
    Posts: 1089
    #1755134

    Throw a level on your axle. Make sure it’s not bent.

    Matt Moen
    South Minneapolis
    Posts: 4264
    #1755146

    I once parked a boat like yours on shore in late November after we had our docks out….wind came up and blew ice into shore and the boat was a solid ice block for the back 6 feet including the motor. Took a half day to chip it free…..battery, gas tank, lines were all frozen solid. Boat never missed a beat.

    I wouldn’t let your boat freeze again but it’ll probably be ok. They are pretty sturdy. Just inspect it well and go fish.

    Besides, it’s guys like us that keep guys like Sheldon in business. That’s not too bad I guess.

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11636
    #1755225

    Just blocking up the tongue more won’t do any good. Been there, done that.

    You need a higher “peak” so that when snow melts or water drains, it cannot pool anywhere on the tarp/cover.

    For my boats, I’ve made what I can only call a very long sawhorse that runs the full length of the boat from front to back. It was just like a standard construction sawhorse, only instead of being 3 feet long, for my 14-foot boat, the “sawhorse was 15’6” long with legs that sat in the bow and then another set of legs back by the motor. This is the ONLY way to get enough support so the weight of snow doesn’t sag the tarp. I tried using two separate sawhorses, doesn’t work! It sags in the middle.

    It also has to be high enough to “peak” the tarp. In my case, on my 14 foot Lund rebel, the top of the sawhorse was 2.5 feet ABOVE the edge of the boat. That made for just enough peak that the snow would slide down the tarp and slip right over the edge of the spray rail. So if you stood the “sawhorse” on the ground, it was over 4 feet high.

    I used as the standard cheap plastic tarp and for years had not one drop of water in my boat. It wasn’t necessary to go out and clean off the snow every time, anything less than 4 inches just slid right off. The tarp lasted 2 years and then had to be replaced. The sawhorse was built using a “folding design” from the interweb and then it got stored up in my garage all summer.

    Grouse

    404 ERROR
    MN
    Posts: 3918
    #1755234

    I can speak for Sheldons accuracy. I have had to replace a transom on my duck boat from water saturation and freezing. It pushed the transom cap up enough to break the rivets free and bend the cap…The rivets on the transom support also got stretched and allowed for flex on the support, in turn allowing the motor to bounce enough to crack the support. I redneck fixed the support by adding 1/4″ aluminum angle gussets and bolting them in. If the boat was worth more than $1,500, maybe I would have had it professionally fixed. But it’s just got a 15hp motor on it and only used for duck season.

    Ice is very unforgiving once it saturates wood. I also made the mistake of storing it upside down against a shed one season. Water filled the top cap and froze. Once it froze, it expanded enough to tear the aluminum top cap right in the middle. Luckily the damage did not compromise the integrity of the cap and it’s just cosmetic.

    Keeping the majority of water out is the key. You would be amazed how much water can expand plywood once it’s saturated. All you can do now is hope the ice expanded in a fashion to not stress any key joints or rivets and didn’t damage any of the wiring in the boat. Best of luck to you.

    Jon Jordan
    Keymaster
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 6019
    #1755238

    I Made a similar mistake a few times with my crestliner with the exception of forgetting to pull the plug. I’d be surprised if anything is damaged

    X 2 on this. You are likely to be ok IMO.

    Also, take a walk through the used boats section at a lot of boat dealers this time of year. You will see quite a few boat sitting there in the same situation. Just parked uncovered for the winter. Now sitting full of snow and ice. I can’t believe every one would be damaged.

    Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.

    -J.

    Jwick
    Posts: 8
    #1755273

    Thank you everyone. This forum rocks! I am praying nothing went wrong, I love this boat and is a perfect starter boat, but don’t have much money to put into it.

    This is the first time It has froze as far as I am aware. Hopefully the next few days of 50 degrees will help thaw it out and dry the ground out enough I can pull it into a garage. I won’t connect anything until everything is fully dried out.

    I don’t think I will ever keep it outside again.

    Will Roseberg
    Moderator
    Hanover, MN
    Posts: 2121
    #1755318

    I agree that while not good practice, I would expect that you’re boat should be fine.

    Going forward, similar to what Grouse described, I would build yourself a simple framework that raises your boat cover using small diameter PVC pipe. It is very lightweight and easy to disassemble/store when not in use. This is helpful not only in the winter but during summer as well to get the cover raised up to keep water from pooling and also to allow airflow under the boat cover.

    Will

    Jwick
    Posts: 8
    #1755360

    Any one have suggestions on dealing with the mold? A coworker said to put dry laundry soap and hose it down really well. Open to an suggestions. I hope I can get her inside before our next big snow.

    BigWerm
    SW Metro
    Posts: 11636
    #1755364

    Any one have suggestions on dealing with the mold?

    Borax and scrub it really well. A lot of people recommend bleach but that just bleaches the color out of it.

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11636
    #1755369

    Any one have suggestions on dealing with the mold? A coworker said to put dry laundry soap and hose it down really well. Open to an suggestions. I hope I can get her inside before our next big snow.

    What do you mean dealing with? Preventing or removing?

    Grouse

    munchy
    NULL
    Posts: 4931
    #1755390

    Any one have suggestions on dealing with the mold? A coworker said to put dry laundry soap and hose it down really well. Open to an suggestions. I hope I can get her inside before our next big snow.

    If you get her dried out quickly there should be little or no mold.

    Get a good air moving fan. Like this

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BY48UU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NzjLAbSRG068P

    Open all the hatches and let it dry out. It will take a while. As long as it gets dried out the water really isn’t the issue as these boats are made to get wet. The ice expansion would be my biggest worry.

    Keppinhiemer
    Posts: 63
    #1755445

    take it to a heated coin op car wash and hose it out with a heated pressure washer would solve lots of problems at once avoid areas with seals and wires tho

    Jwick
    Posts: 8
    #1760801

    boat is fully dry. No mold and all electronics work! Thank again everyone!

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