Rod Building: Ice Deadstick Blank?

  • Obsession
    Maple Grove
    Posts: 100
    #2223158

    I’m looking for recommendations for a blank used specifically as a build deadstick. I intend to use this build to target walleye with either a large flathead or small sucker as live bait when the rod is in a holder within a headed shack. Ideally the blank’s rip would be sensitive enough to see the swimming motions of the minnow, have a soft enough action to allow the walleye to bite without feeling much feedback from the rod and have enough backbone in the bottom half of the blank to offer decent control during the fight.

    I see that most ice rod manufacturers use 100% fiberglass blanks for deadstick rods.

    Is there a specific blank you’ve built on and would recommend?

    Can fiberglass blanks be sanded with fine grit to alter their action?

    ekruger01
    Posts: 590
    #2223162

    Basskhang, and V line have great deadstick blanks that will fit your need.

    onepine
    Elk River
    Posts: 136
    #2223654

    I have used the Basskhang walleye dead stick for this type of setup. If you want even more backbone the power noodle would work also. Basskhang has a shop in Osseo off Jefferson Hwy. Address: 8760 Jefferson Hwy, Osseo, MN 55369. You can sand the rods but it takes the finish off you will need to re paint it. Ge will have all the parts you need to build the rod. I would cut the blank before I sanded it to adjust the action. Cut from the tip to adjust action cut from the butt to adjust the length of the rod to suit your style.

    Rodwork
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 3979
    #2223732

    Most dead sticks are made on fiberglass blanks. Here is s screen shoot of the taper of some of the more popular blanks. I enjoy sanding and shaping blanks to get the desired action. They are not hard to paint or you can take all the paint off and leave it naked. As onepine suggested, it is easier to trim the blank if that gives you your desired action. You can see from the graph that I would not shorten most of the blanks too much from its original length if you want to keep enough backbone. Did you have a length in mind?

    Attachments:
    1. Deadstick-Ice-blanks.jpg

    Rodwork
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 3979
    #2223777

    I sent you the file so it is easer to see and play with.

    bigcrappie
    Blaine
    Posts: 4374
    #2223781

    BK walleye dead stick is what I would use. The V-Line one is a little stiffer.

    lrott2003
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 532
    #2224335

    Most dead sticks are made on fiberglass blanks. Here is s screen shoot of the taper of some of the more popular blanks. I enjoy sanding and shaping blanks to get the desired action. They are not hard to paint or you can take all the paint off and leave it naked. As onepine suggested, it is easier to trim the blank if that gives you your desired action. You can see from the graph that I would not shorten most of the blanks too much from its original length if you want to keep enough backbone. Did you have a length in mind?

    Just curious on the savings of building a rod versus purchasing? I know you have to spend $$$ to be able to build one but I am just curious how much the components are to build a nice ice rod are versus purchasing say a nice custom rod for 120-160 bucks.

    This is all good information so far!

    Rodwork
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 3979
    #2224363

    Just curious on the savings of building a rod versus purchasing?

    Little hard to put a price on it. Buying epoxy in bigger lots can save a bunch of money. For one rod this would not help. Mudhole sells kits for $40. Bare min you would need is (this is picking the cheapest components available and without shipping):
    Blank: Netcraft economy blank $1.99 (You can buy better blanks from Bass Khang for $8+ or a blank from Thorne Brothers, JT outdoors, or TUCR for $40.)
    Fly guide: $0.89 each x5 $4.45 (recoil guides are $5 each)
    Stripper guide: $2.99 (recoil stripper guide $9)
    Handle: 5” $8.29 (AAAA grade cork is $5.95 per ½”)
    Thread: $2.99
    Past Epoxy (attaching handle): $11.95
    Thread finish: $3.45
    Thread wrapper made from shoe box $0
    Finished rod can cost anywhere from $36.11 (To make a finish rod with all the tools needed) to top notch components of $113.14 + your time. One could make 3 rods for the price of one overpriced TUCR at $140 each.
    You may need some other tools if you don’t have them laying around. I made my wrapper and reamer. Dryers help $45, or you can spin it by hand.

    Trevor Olson
    Posts: 3
    #2224418

    @ Rod Works

    Would you be able to send that file over my way? Working on making a panfish and walleye deadstick for this season also. Thanks!

    Rodwork
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 3979
    #2224797

    Would you be able to send that file over my way? Working on making a panfish and walleye deadstick for this season also. Thanks!

    PM me your email address and I will be happy to share my work.

    tucrs
    NW Metro
    Posts: 999
    #2224983

    When sanding the blanks make sure to wet sand them and keep it cool.

    I have sanded a lot of blanks over the years, best way to have the rod turn our perfect is to wet sand it on a lathe.

    I really like REC guides but, prep the guides to make the thread easy to wrap.

    John

    Rodwork
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 3979
    #2224997

    I just looked last night. While I still think $140-$175 for an ice rod is high. This looks to be the norm for custom rods today.

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