Rod builders question

Hey guys and gals, I started building rods last fall and totally got hooked. Unfortunately the first two ice rods I built broke in the same way. I’m looking for answers so I can improve and not do this again (lots of revisions in my process since I started already, have probably done 15 rods by now for friends and family. I did use a flame briefly for the epoxy on these rods (I use very little heat now) and the guys that were using them are trustworthy, did not abuse these things. These are pretty good blanks from what I can tell, Mudhole branded MHX ultralights). What might have caused this?

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rwmcvean wrote:

Unfortunately the first two ice rods I built broke in the same way.

Broke in the “same place on the rod” or broke in the “same way” as in during the hookset, while playing a fish, during transport, etc.?

First thought without knowing what blank, length, and so on is guide spacing from tip is too far

Noticed while inspecting the rod while getting a jig untangled, no forceful actions at all (unless you consider catching a few hundred crappies forceful)

I agree with Randy I think you need more guides to spread the force out. I would add at least one more better with 2 spread out if you make another.

Just a tip here…..I dropped using flame on my finish for bubble release and now use a $10 harbor freight heat gun. A little more control.

High sticking

As has been said, the space for the first guide from the tip looks like it is too far. That with maybe high sticking = broken rod blank.

The first guide on most of my ice rod builds is around 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches from the tip of the blank to the guide ring, and I test the guide placement on EVERY rod because blanks can vary. Good luck and enjoy your new rods!

Randy Wieland wrote:

First thought without knowing what blank, length, and so on is guide spacing from tip is too far

This was my first thought after reading your post. Where they stop painting the tip of the blank doesn’t equal where the second guide should go. For me most of the time the high vis painted tip paint stops in-between guides. I have not used that blank (I don’t use any of MHX brand ice blanks. There are better ones out there for less.) so I don’t have the guide spacing for that blank in my notes. I agree with Bassn Dan. One should always do a test of the guide spacing before wrapping on the guides. I use orthodontist rubber bands to hold my guides on while I check the spacing.

Describe the “testing that you do, what are you looking for?

rwmcvean wrote:

Describe the “testing that you do, what are you looking for?

It is called a static / load test. There are many good videos on YouTube to check it out. It would take me a bit to type it out.

I start by rapping an orthodontist rubber band around a forceps about 4 or 5 time. Depending on where on the blank they will be going. You will want them to be tight but not too tight to slide the foot of the guide under it. I open the forceps and roll the rubber band onto the blank. You can snap the tip if you try to wrap the rubber band around the blank. I will put a set (one rubber band on the front of the guide foot and one by the neck of the guide) on larger guides. You might as well prep you guide feet at this time by sanding a ramp / smooth out the start of the foot. Make sure to sand the back side of the guide so you don’t get a bur and scratch the blank. This will make it easer to get the guide under the rubber band. You will want to hit black guides with a permanent marker after you shape them. You will want one guide at the apex of the blank. To find the apex, bend the blank to 90-degrees and mark off the 45-degree spot. This will help to prevent snapping the blank at this spot. Move around the rubber bands until you find a spacing that looks good. The spacing should increase as you get father away from the tip. Put some fishing line thru the guides and pull slowly. Watch how the blank reacts to the guide placement and loads. You can change how a blank reacts by the placement of your guides. Your goal is to use the least number of guides you can. Makes sure that there is not too much bend on the blank in between any of the guides. The blank should bend about the same way with the load of the line going thru the guides as it does when you just pull down the tip. Slide them around and play with the number of guides until you are happy with it. This is the same process for spinning and casting rods. Just make sure on casting rods the guides are close enough together that the line doesn’t tough the blank under a full load. Braided line will cut a blank. Double foot guides will create a flat spot on the blank curve and add stress to the blank on both sides of the guide. You will want to go to a single foot guide if the double foot guide creates too much of a flat spot. You can sand down the guide feet if they create too big of a flat spot. Just don’t take too much off. I like to make spread sheets and record the diameter of the blank every 1” and where I place the guides. Matt and I have been working for a long time making a data base of different available blanks and their actions. His version of this can be downloaded from https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rpEtBQKRsHXvNJaAq3__Z2OE6T3limR9 I don’t think he adds guide spacing on his. Let me know if you have any more questions. I am happy to help.